bonnet/bumper shutline adjustment - Page 2

Ken · 13th November 2006, 14:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keith

This thing

Keith leave it like that, it will guarantee you have the road to yourself :lol:

pondweed · 13th November 2006, 14:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keith

The ideal way to get a good fit imho is to buy a bumper from the Breakers then cut the front and bottom off so the crossmember bolt can be reached then you can adjust to your hearts content

oh lordy. lifes too short for all this...

I might just put some gaffertape over the gap to stop pheasants getting stuck in the bodywork

DeeCee · 13th November 2006, 14:52

Some closeups of the MK2 Alloy crossmember and inside of bumper.

You will see in Bump1 the outline of matching holes in the EPP inside of the bumper.
From this I would guess that the EPP is hard against the alloy member.
The EPP has a ledge that looks like it sits on top of the member, in which case as Keith says lifting the Alloy member will lift the bumper.

I have been trying to line my bumper using plastic packing washers with little effect.

Must try lifting the alloy member

Keith · 13th November 2006, 15:53

Christopher I am assuming as I didn't check when I did the ZTT fan that the holes are either over sized or oblong to allow for a slight amount of movement after all we are only looking for a few mm.

That should allow the slam panel to be slightly adjusted and aid the bumper alignment etc

Keith · 13th November 2006, 15:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken

Keith leave it like that, it will guarantee you have the road to yourself :lol:

Looks mean doesn't it

One obvious mistake in that picture I left the under tray on which makes refitting the bumper a pig unless you go doh! and take it off!

GreyGhost · 13th November 2006, 16:07

If you should make an over or under adjustment to your member. This would require stripping back to it until you get it right. Life is much to short to be stripping the front off severally to make an adjustment which is attainable with the use of a few twopenny washers and a socket set.
If and when I ever have to remove it and I forsee no reason to get my own hands dirty while I can still afford to pay others. It will remain as is.

Please note, every word in this post has been most carefully chosen

Zeb · 13th November 2006, 20:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grey Ghost

If you should make an over or under adjustment to your member. This would require stripping back to it until you get it right. Life is much to short to be stripping the front off severally to make an adjustment which is attainable with the use of a few twopenny washers and a socket set.
If and when I ever have to remove it and I forsee no reason to get my own hands dirty while I can still afford to pay others. It will remain as is.

Please note, every word in this post has been most carefully chosen

Eeeeeeewwwwwww!

Mike · 13th November 2006, 22:52

I used felt washers to lift up the grille and close the gap (Mk 1 75). This worked perfectly for me.

GreyGhost · 13th November 2006, 22:58

I was considering getting some nylon washers to replace the galvanised ones I installed. Christopher has made me paranoid about rust now

Mike · 13th November 2006, 23:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grey Ghost

I was considering getting some nylon washers to replace the galvanised ones I installed. Christopher has made me paranoid about rust now

Rust? I thought all of the parts involved in the work I did were plastic :doh: As my teacher always said. 'must pay more attention'. Lucky I used felt then

13th November 2006, 14:52	#13
DeeCee Regular poster none Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: none Posts: 93 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Some closeups of the MK2 Alloy crossmember and inside of bumper. You will see in Bump1 the outline of matching holes in the EPP inside of the bumper. From this I would guess that the EPP is hard against the alloy member. The EPP has a ledge that looks like it sits on top of the member, in which case as Keith says lifting the Alloy member will lift the bumper. I have been trying to line my bumper using plastic packing washers with little effect. Must try lifting the alloy member Last edited by DeeCee; 9th February 2007 at 13:36..

13th November 2006, 16:07	#16
GreyGhost Banned 180+ Sport Auto Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Bedford Middle Level Posts: 17,787 Thanks: 0 Thanked 18 Times in 5 Posts	If you should make an over or under adjustment to your member. This would require stripping back to it until you get it right. Life is much to short to be stripping the front off severally to make an adjustment which is attainable with the use of a few twopenny washers and a socket set. If and when I ever have to remove it and I forsee no reason to get my own hands dirty while I can still afford to pay others. It will remain as is. Please note, every word in this post has been most carefully chosen Last edited by GreyGhost; 13th November 2006 at 20:28..

13th November 2006, 22:52	#18
Mike This is my second home Rover 75 V8 Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 3,448 Thanks: 0 Thanked 206 Times in 32 Posts	I used felt washers to lift up the grille and close the gap (Mk 1 75). This worked perfectly for me. __________________ Mike [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

13th November 2006, 15:53	#14
Keith This is my second home ZT400 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ellesmere Posts: 5,948 Thanks: 0 Thanked 43 Times in 29 Posts	Christopher I am assuming as I didn't check when I did the ZTT fan that the holes are either over sized or oblong to allow for a slight amount of movement after all we are only looking for a few mm. That should allow the slam panel to be slightly adjusted and aid the bumper alignment etc

13th November 2006, 22:58	#19
GreyGhost Banned 180+ Sport Auto Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Bedford Middle Level Posts: 17,787 Thanks: 0 Thanked 18 Times in 5 Posts	I was considering getting some nylon washers to replace the galvanised ones I installed. Christopher has made me paranoid about rust now