Coolant loss - Page 6

Rsnail · 8th December 2019, 08:22

I tried to take a look this morning without dimantling anything but it's not quite that easy as the manifold is obstructing the visibility, I hope the hoses won't need to be separated right under the manifold, could you please tell me approximately where are the points where you can separate them?

Took another peak now and I can see that the upper matrix hose from the engine bay runs to the coolant expansion tank so I can just unclip that easily. The problem though seems to be with the lower hose, that one goes somewhere under the engine and I can't see where it goes further from that point, also, it seems that mine was previously modified, 3 inches after the heater core hose comes out of the firewall, another type of hose is attached to it, it's been done so that this later fitted hose is pushed and fitted snugly on top and around the original one and I can't see any point along it's length where I could separate it without cutting it.

SD1too · 8th December 2019, 09:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsnail

The problem though seems to be with the lower hose, that one goes somewhere under the engine and I can't see where it goes ...

That's the heater flow and RAVE shows it connected low down to the RH cylinder bank. I'd suggest that if you remove the engine undertray you'll probably get a good view from beneath.

Quote:

... it seems that mine was previously modified, 3 inches after the heater core hose comes out of the firewall, another type of hose is attached to it, it's been done so that this later fitted hose is pushed and fitted snugly on top and around the original one and I can't see any point along it's length where I could separate it without cutting it.

I think you're looking at a protective sleeve which is integral with the original hose Galambosi.

To separate the heater return hose, just below the expansion tank connection the hose forms a T junction. Follow the 90 degree spur and you should reach a clipped connection which you can separate, according to RAVE (the other branch goes to the thermostat housing).

I hope this helps.

Simon

Rsnail · 8th December 2019, 10:06

So basically I have to separate the heater flow hose from the RH cylinder bank where it "meets" the engine and the heater return hose at the T junction below the expansion tank and then proceed with the flush both ways. Am I right?

T-Cut · 8th December 2019, 12:46

Perhaps a diagram will help?

SD1too · 8th December 2019, 14:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsnail

Am I right?

Sorry for the very late reply but yes, that is what I would attempt to do.

Simon

Rsnail · 8th December 2019, 16:18

Thank you over and over again Simon and T-Cut. The diagram makes it all so conclusive, however, I guess the only way to undo that heater flow hose would be by removing the undertray, and after that, is the access to it easy enough or do you have to crawl and crumble?

Another question I have is, if I pour in kettle descaler into the heater return hose would it fill up the matrix? I am asking this because as far as I know, the return hose is the one going to the top of the matrix, so logically thinking that would be the path to fill the matrix and not through the flow hose. If that's right, I can fill it this way and then push the descaler out with my air compressor.

Rsnail · 9th December 2019, 17:44

Besides what I was asking above, I kust hooked up my scanner with Toaf and the errors I got for the ATC system are:

21 - Left solar sensor
22 - Right solar sensor

Could anyone tell me what exactly are these and if they could be the reason for my issue with the right side blowing colder air than the left one even when set at the same temperature?

T-Cut · 9th December 2019, 17:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsnail

Could anyone tell me what exactly are these

Those codes are standard/defaults for the sun sensor on top of the dash. They're nothing to worry about.

Quote:

and if they could be the reason for my issue with the right side blowing colder air than the left one even when set at the same temperature?

Not related at all. It's likely that your heater matrix is partially silted up. Try a hosepipe flush through. There are losts of threads with info on doing it.

TC

Rsnail · 9th December 2019, 20:52

I will try that as soon as I have some free time. But I am only wondering (not at all questioning if that's right or not) how exactly would a partially blocked heater core affect the heat distribution only on one side of the car and not the other too? I thought that if it's partially blocked it would affect the overall high air temperatures and not just for specific areas

T-Cut · 10th December 2019, 09:23

Heater matrix tend to silt up in one end rather than across the bottom. I haven't examined the internals myself, but the evidence suggests that the left side supplies heat to the left side of the cab and vickyverka. There are many threads about 'no heat on one side'. However, it's typically the left side so yours may have a different issue.

Clicky1: https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=013872....0.xnAKVmlTSlc

Other things that affect air distribution are the moving fllaps within the heater assembly. Sometimes one gets 'stuck' and blocks the heat/airflow.

Clicky2: https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=013872....0.xnAKVmlTSlc

TC

8th December 2019, 08:22	#51
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	I tried to take a look this morning without dimantling anything but it's not quite that easy as the manifold is obstructing the visibility, I hope the hoses won't need to be separated right under the manifold, could you please tell me approximately where are the points where you can separate them? Took another peak now and I can see that the upper matrix hose from the engine bay runs to the coolant expansion tank so I can just unclip that easily. The problem though seems to be with the lower hose, that one goes somewhere under the engine and I can't see where it goes further from that point, also, it seems that mine was previously modified, 3 inches after the heater core hose comes out of the firewall, another type of hose is attached to it, it's been done so that this later fitted hose is pushed and fitted snugly on top and around the original one and I can't see any point along it's length where I could separate it without cutting it. Last edited by Rsnail; 8th December 2019 at 09:09..

8th December 2019, 10:06	#53
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	So basically I have to separate the heater flow hose from the RH cylinder bank where it "meets" the engine and the heater return hose at the T junction below the expansion tank and then proceed with the flush both ways. Am I right? Last edited by Rsnail; 8th December 2019 at 10:31..

9th December 2019, 20:52	#59
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	I will try that as soon as I have some free time. But I am only wondering (not at all questioning if that's right or not) how exactly would a partially blocked heater core affect the heat distribution only on one side of the car and not the other too? I thought that if it's partially blocked it would affect the overall high air temperatures and not just for specific areas Last edited by Rsnail; 9th December 2019 at 20:54..

10th December 2019, 09:23	#60
T-Cut This is my second home Rover75 and Mreg Corsa. Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sumweer onat mote o'dust (Sagin) Posts: 21,752 Thanks: 341 Thanked 3,660 Times in 2,924 Posts	Heater matrix tend to silt up in one end rather than across the bottom. I haven't examined the internals myself, but the evidence suggests that the left side supplies heat to the left side of the cab and vickyverka. There are many threads about 'no heat on one side'. However, it's typically the left side so yours may have a different issue. Clicky1: https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=013872....0.xnAKVmlTSlc Other things that affect air distribution are the moving fllaps within the heater assembly. Sometimes one gets 'stuck' and blocks the heat/airflow. Clicky2: https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=013872....0.xnAKVmlTSlc TC Last edited by T-Cut; 10th December 2019 at 09:25..

8th December 2019, 12:46	#54
T-Cut This is my second home Rover75 and Mreg Corsa. Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sumweer onat mote o'dust (Sagin) Posts: 21,752 Thanks: 341 Thanked 3,660 Times in 2,924 Posts	Perhaps a diagram will help?

8th December 2019, 16:18	#56
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	Thank you over and over again Simon and T-Cut. The diagram makes it all so conclusive, however, I guess the only way to undo that heater flow hose would be by removing the undertray, and after that, is the access to it easy enough or do you have to crawl and crumble? Another question I have is, if I pour in kettle descaler into the heater return hose would it fill up the matrix? I am asking this because as far as I know, the return hose is the one going to the top of the matrix, so logically thinking that would be the path to fill the matrix and not through the flow hose. If that's right, I can fill it this way and then push the descaler out with my air compressor.

9th December 2019, 17:44	#57
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	Besides what I was asking above, I kust hooked up my scanner with Toaf and the errors I got for the ATC system are: 21 - Left solar sensor 22 - Right solar sensor Could anyone tell me what exactly are these and if they could be the reason for my issue with the right side blowing colder air than the left one even when set at the same temperature?