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Old 22nd July 2016, 21:42   #11
Salmon
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Base coat difference was a consideration.

The pieces I photographed were cut off the bumper to fit a tow bar recently

on the back there is some original overspray which is very gold looking.

So I experimented grey primer 2 coats of gold and various levels of platinum gold from a single thin coat to 3 coats none of which got close and it silvered very quickly. that's not conclusive but I'm convinced the top coat would have to be so thin as to show overlapping in order to allow a base coat to influence it.
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Old 22nd July 2016, 22:47   #12
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Found this rather interesting thread on MG-Rover.org

Appears to suggest there are in fact two shades of MCN??
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Old 23rd July 2016, 09:13   #13
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Sorry if a dumb suggestion. I'm no professional at paint spraying, but from what I've seen of this Pearlescent colour, in direct sunlight in can seem like a silvery pearl at some angles.

I see from your side by side tests it is nowhere near a match.

As the colour is Pearlescent, does it need to be sprayed at a certain angle to reflect properly after application of lacquer top coat?
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Old 23rd July 2016, 16:31   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by first-things-first View Post
As the colour is Pearlescent, does it need to be sprayed at a certain angle to reflect properly after application of lacquer top coat?
I have been told that with pearlescent the distance of the can from the body is critical as it affects the density of the application , and hence the colour
It's not easy stuff to match !
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Old 24th July 2016, 10:32   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klarzy View Post
Are you sure it is not white gold or white gold 2 (MGN)

Is`nt that GMN ?
How many shades of Gold are there?
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Old 24th July 2016, 17:00   #16
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From what I remember from my time in a Rover bodyshop (early 90's), you will probably never get metallic or pearlescent to match when you put original & new paint 'edge to edge', as you show in the pics.

When spraying, the paint supplier, paint colour contents, gun pressure, ambient temperature, distance from panel, ambient and drying temp can all affect the final appearance of the finish, due to both colour and the way the metal flakes end up lying in the paint.

The only panels which could be repaired edge to edge, would be a solid colour (non metallic) which was still quite new & hadn't faded / deteriorated. Even these though, on occasion, could look slightly out if the wrong shade of a specific colour was mixed by mistake (never understood why they did different shades with same code... )

Metallic & pearls always had to be 'blended through' onto adjacent panels to allow the visual differences to be lost by fading it out to make less obvious. Might be worth trying this to get a less noticeable repair - blend the new colour onto the surrounding area then lacquer the whole panel. Easier said than done though
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Old 24th July 2016, 21:23   #17
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I agree with Paul above.

Pearl and metallic paints nearly always need to be blended and silvers and golds are worst than most. If you know what you are looking at you see loads of these colour cars with different shades of panels where they have been blended.
Blending sounds easy but I can never do it properly so gave up and a I get a proffesional now
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Old 24th July 2016, 21:41   #18
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I work in a bodyshop and the painters hate doing silvers. A blend is needed every time as an edge to edge match is almost impossible with slivers and metalics.
As has already been said, when a painter does a test card the distance the spray gun is away from the card brings up a different shade almost every time especially with metalics and every time with pearls. Painting is an art and is so hard to do with an aerosol.
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