changing rear pads/discs

Gman2 · 7th January 2008, 21:17

I'm thinking of attemting for the first time changing my rear discs and pads. I've got the Haynes manual and have looked at the guides on the forum. However I'm aware that caliper wind back tools are available that apparently greatly ease the process but there's no mention of this tool in these guides. Can anyone shed any light on this and any general tips would be greatly received.

oddsocks · 7th January 2008, 21:45

I did mine (75 CDT not ZT) some months ago. If you are replacing the discs and pads, the way I did it was to open the bleed nipple, use the old pad and a screwdriver against the disc to force the piston back in (there appears to be no need to turn the piston). If you are changing everything it also makes sense to change the brake fluid as well.
i posted my response on the other forum some months ago ...

here - (Link removed search on .org )

my post copied here in purple

Well, the weather was excellent today so as posted earlier I have replaced all 4 discs and pads. In all it took 3 hours (not rushing) including full fluid bleed, handbrake adjustment and a cup of tea (delivered). I've got the haynes manual and the instructions were simple and accurate. No special tools are needed other than a 7mm hex socket, T50 torx (for the disc) and a torque wrench that can do 28Nm (7mm hex caliper pins), 33 (T50 torx) 64 (13mm rear caliper holder) 100 (15mm front caliper holder) and 125 (17mm wheel nuts) - all values are for my 75 (confirm yours).

My pads had not worn enough to wear the indicators so these were just removed and refitted.

The road test made me realise that before I must have had a very slightly distorted disc as now there is no pulsation through the pedal.. I haven't stress tested the EBC brakes, but their 'Brake in' surface coating appears to work well.

some months later the EBC (green) brake performance is still excellent. I used to think my wife's audi had good brakes but now when I drive hers it seems to take longer to stop than in the 75

Kandyman · 7th January 2008, 22:03

I to have removed and fitted EBC grooved discs and green EBC pads and to date i have not had any problems and the brakes feel so much better.

The_Monk · 8th January 2008, 07:42

might be a dumb question but how long do brake pads typically last? Mine have been on over 3 years and seem to be still going strong. The car has only done 30k.

T-Cut · 8th January 2008, 10:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by The_Monk

might be a dumb question but how long do brake pads typically last? Mine have been on over 3 years and seem to be still going strong. The car has only done 30k.

It's the 'How long is a piece of string?' question. Some drivers can get through brake pads in less than 10,000 miles, others will see 50,000 and more. It depends on driving style and brake useage. As long as the pad wear warning doesn't pop up, they've plenty of life in them. When the indicator finally shows, make plans to have the pads (and the brake wear sensor) replaced. On the other hand, hand brake shoes should last the life of the car under normal circumstances.

TC

JohnDotCom · 8th January 2008, 12:10

I'm on my Third set from New (2005) but as its an Automatic I do think they tend to wear out Quicker.
Oh that averages about 28,000 miles a Set on front of mine.

oddsocks · 9th January 2008, 07:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by The_Monk

might be a dumb question but how long do brake pads typically last? Mine have been on over 3 years and seem to be still going strong. The car has only done 30k.

I replace my pads and discs almost as a matter of course when I buy a car - I buy cars at auction at about 80k miles with a service history and keep them for about 3 years and expect to have to do it in that time so do it at the start. My 75 had done 85k and the discs were about 1mm thicker than the minimum spec in haynes. Checking the service history that came with the car (ex company so probable lots of motorway) it had had new front pads at 56k but never any new rear ones - the front ones were not worn much, the rear ones were about to get to the wear indicator (but not bad after 85k!)

sylvester · 9th January 2008, 09:16

I replaced my front pads at 50k when the sensor came on. Rear pads should last considerably longer. I sold our 218 STD with 180,000 on the clock and still had its original drum brake shoes in place.
Worth shopping round for too - I was quoted £65 but paid eventually £25 for a set of genuine rover pads for the 75 tourer.
The brake pistons can be pushed back into place with a G clamp

tapped · 9th January 2008, 10:14

What method have people found best for sorting out the mating surface on the front discs? Mine's got the pulsation so I'm going to treat it to some new ones, just keen not to get the pulsation back again!

Cheer

JohnFol · 9th January 2008, 10:27

Just going back to the caliper wind back question, I use a get of g-clamps and something to protect the piston, like the old pad.

7th January 2008, 21:17	#1
Gman2 Posted a thing or two ZTT+ 1.8T, mgf 1.8 Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Warrington Posts: 1,550 Thanks: 28 Thanked 65 Times in 42 Posts	changing rear pads/discs I'm thinking of attemting for the first time changing my rear discs and pads. I've got the Haynes manual and have looked at the guides on the forum. However I'm aware that caliper wind back tools are available that apparently greatly ease the process but there's no mention of this tool in these guides. Can anyone shed any light on this and any general tips would be greatly received.

7th January 2008, 21:45	#2
oddsocks Regular poster 75 CDT 03 plate Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: haverhill Posts: 31 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I did mine (75 CDT not ZT) some months ago. If you are replacing the discs and pads, the way I did it was to open the bleed nipple, use the old pad and a screwdriver against the disc to force the piston back in (there appears to be no need to turn the piston). If you are changing everything it also makes sense to change the brake fluid as well. i posted my response on the other forum some months ago ... here - (Link removed search on .org ) my post copied here in purple Well, the weather was excellent today so as posted earlier I have replaced all 4 discs and pads. In all it took 3 hours (not rushing) including full fluid bleed, handbrake adjustment and a cup of tea (delivered). I've got the haynes manual and the instructions were simple and accurate. No special tools are needed other than a 7mm hex socket, T50 torx (for the disc) and a torque wrench that can do 28Nm (7mm hex caliper pins), 33 (T50 torx) 64 (13mm rear caliper holder) 100 (15mm front caliper holder) and 125 (17mm wheel nuts) - all values are for my 75 (confirm yours). My pads had not worn enough to wear the indicators so these were just removed and refitted. The road test made me realise that before I must have had a very slightly distorted disc as now there is no pulsation through the pedal.. I haven't stress tested the EBC brakes, but their 'Brake in' surface coating appears to work well. some months later the EBC (green) brake performance is still excellent. I used to think my wife's audi had good brakes but now when I drive hers it seems to take longer to stop than in the 75 Last edited by Kandyman; 7th January 2008 at 22:01.. Reason: Link removed and PM'ed

9th January 2008, 09:16	#8
sylvester Loves to post Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Rochester Kent Posts: 256 Thanks: 18 Thanked 22 Times in 9 Posts	Brake wear rate I replaced my front pads at 50k when the sensor came on. Rear pads should last considerably longer. I sold our 218 STD with 180,000 on the clock and still had its original drum brake shoes in place. Worth shopping round for too - I was quoted £65 but paid eventually £25 for a set of genuine rover pads for the 75 tourer. The brake pistons can be pushed back into place with a G clamp

7th January 2008, 22:03	#3
Kandyman Banned ROVER 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE Limousine 2004 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Welling Posts: 10,995 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	I to have removed and fitted EBC grooved discs and green EBC pads and to date i have not had any problems and the brakes feel so much better.

8th January 2008, 07:42	#4
The_Monk I really should get out more....... - Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: - Posts: 2,586 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts	might be a dumb question but how long do brake pads typically last? Mine have been on over 3 years and seem to be still going strong. The car has only done 30k.

8th January 2008, 12:10	#6
JohnDotCom * Rover 75 FaceLift Tourer CDTi 170BHP Auto ConnSE 2005 Model Starlight Silver Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Abergele Posts: 28,735 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	I'm on my Third set from New (2005) but as its an Automatic I do think they tend to wear out Quicker. Oh that averages about 28,000 miles a Set on front of mine.

9th January 2008, 10:14	#9
tapped Gets stuck in Ex-75 1.8T, 2.5V6 and CDT + ZT 190 & V8! Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Warwick Posts: 626 Thanks: 3 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	What method have people found best for sorting out the mating surface on the front discs? Mine's got the pulsation so I'm going to treat it to some new ones, just keen not to get the pulsation back again! Cheer

9th January 2008, 10:27	#10
JohnFol Gets stuck in 75 Conn SE - XVWY* Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Reading Posts: 564 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Just going back to the caliper wind back question, I use a get of g-clamps and something to protect the piston, like the old pad.