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Old 13th October 2012, 18:04   #1
HarryM1BYT
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Default Diesel belt change, tensioner spanner and auto

A forum member with a auto diesel has borrowed my belt tensioner spanner and not been able to get the spanner in. Now I know it worked fine for my manual and it was made for the job. It was also barrowed subsequently without anyone reporting any issues using it, but I'm not sure whether they used it on an auto or a manual.

The problem seems to have been that the spanner would not fit through the gap between the pulley and the inner wing.

Is there some difference between the auto and manual in this respect?
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Old 18th October 2012, 17:21   #2
redmtbman
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Hi there Harry, I can confirm your spanner definitely works fine on a cdti auto as I borrowed your spanner a few months back and it was ok on my auto
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Old 18th October 2012, 19:43   #3
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Very strange Harry, I made up a spanner for myself which is 8mm and its a fiddle to get it down and on the nut, just got to get the belt back on now, what a nightmare.
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Old 19th October 2012, 23:31   #4
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Same here. Crankshaft pulley replacement a few weeks ago and, whilst fiddly, got the spanner on the tensioner ok. Whilst on the subject of loaning tools, I made up an extension socket for the crankshaft bolt - anyone who can collect is welcome to borrow. I think we should have a dedicated section on the forum where available loan tools can be listed, Any mods reading this.... is it possible?
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Old 22nd July 2019, 12:48   #5
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Default 75 diesel tensioner issues

I actually bought the special tool from Rimmer in the end rather than borrow Harry's home made tool and even had difficulty getting it on the Tensioner 24mm nut on my automatic Diesel 75. However I noticed a couple of burrs on the nut which I took down with a big file and managed to get the tool on the nut eventually with a little persuasion with a small hammer, and turn it anti-clockwise to release the tension! Absolutely no movement at all with the belt tension exactly as it was. I'm not sure what would happen if I just kept turning! The whole thing would probably come apart. As I am not too sure how the tensioner actually operates I thought I would come on to the forum and seek some advice. It doesn't look as if my tensioner can be freed! Presently my intention is to just cut the old belt off and see if all the things that should spin freely do so, and attack those that do not - including the tensioner itself. I hope to get a little nugget of information in response to this post sooner rather than later. By the way, I would be happy to include my special tensioner tool in a pool that could be hired for the odd job if anyone is interested in having a special tool library!
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Old 22nd July 2019, 12:59   #6
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Holy thread resurrection, Batman!!
Is 7 years a record?
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Old 22nd July 2019, 13:08   #7
HarryM1BYT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoeburymike View Post
By the way, I would be happy to include my special tensioner tool in a pool that could be hired for the odd job if anyone is interested in having a special tool library!

I'm not clear on what issue you are having with the tensioner, so ignoring that. Basically you fit the spanner and push it towards the rear of the car from underneath, or pull it towards the front of the car if the spanner is used from above. It takes a fair bit of pull, to get it to move against its spring, so the spanner needs to be long for the leverage and it is handy to be able to lash the spanner under tension.


I think the idea of a special tools library has been suggested a few times. There wasn't a lot of enthusiasm for it, because tools tend to go missing. A shame really, because many of these special tools are the type of thing which are expensive and would likely only be needed by the buyer just the once, if they are only looking after their own car.



The other problem, is simply the cost of postage is so expensive, just getting my home made spanner out and back wouldn't leave much change from £10.



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How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses...

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540

Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing.

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Old 22nd July 2019, 18:20   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoeburymike View Post
I actually bought the special tool from Rimmer in the end rather than borrow Harry's home made tool and even had difficulty getting it on the Tensioner 24mm nut on my automatic Diesel 75. However I noticed a couple of burrs on the nut which I took down with a big file and managed to get the tool on the nut eventually with a little persuasion with a small hammer, and turn it anti-clockwise to release the tension! Absolutely no movement at all with the belt tension exactly as it was. I'm not sure what would happen if I just kept turning! The whole thing would probably come apart. As I am not too sure how the tensioner actually operates I thought I would come on to the forum and seek some advice. It doesn't look as if my tensioner can be freed! Presently my intention is to just cut the old belt off and see if all the things that should spin freely do so, and attack those that do not - including the tensioner itself. I hope to get a little nugget of information in response to this post sooner rather than later. By the way, I would be happy to include my special tensioner tool in a pool that could be hired for the odd job if anyone is interested in having a special tool library!
How about borrowed for the price of both way postage?

From my experience with a diesel manual, if you got the spanner on the tensioner and it turned the nut/bolt but did not release the tension, the nut on the other side of the tensioner has come ever so slightly lose. Scary until you know its an easy fix. You need to get a spanner onto this nut and with the spanner you have, tighten it up.
I am nut sure if there is an already made spanner or if you will need to make one.

Mike Noc came to my rescue on this

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Old 22nd July 2019, 18:27   #9
HarryM1BYT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
How about borrowed for the price of both way postage?

From my experience with a diesel manual, if you got the spanner on the tensioner and it turned the nut/bolt but did not release the tension, the nut on the other side of the tensioner has come ever so slightly lose. Scary until you know its an easy fix. You need to get a spanner onto this nut and with the spanner you have, tighten it up.
I am nut sure if there is an already made spanner or if you will need to make one.

Mike Noc came to my rescue on this

macafee2

I understand Mike's problem now, thanks..




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Harry

How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses...

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540

Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing.

I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money.
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Old 22nd July 2019, 20:22   #10
Mike Noc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoeburymike View Post
I actually bought the special tool from Rimmer in the end rather than borrow Harry's home made tool and even had difficulty getting it on the Tensioner 24mm nut on my automatic Diesel 75. However I noticed a couple of burrs on the nut which I took down with a big file and managed to get the tool on the nut eventually with a little persuasion with a small hammer, and turn it anti-clockwise to release the tension! Absolutely no movement at all with the belt tension exactly as it was. I'm not sure what would happen if I just kept turning! The whole thing would probably come apart. As I am not too sure how the tensioner actually operates I thought I would come on to the forum and seek some advice. It doesn't look as if my tensioner can be freed! Presently my intention is to just cut the old belt off and see if all the things that should spin freely do so, and attack those that do not - including the tensioner itself. I hope to get a little nugget of information in response to this post sooner rather than later. By the way, I would be happy to include my special tensioner tool in a pool that could be hired for the odd job if anyone is interested in having a special tool library!

Mike, as Ian mentioned, if the tension isn't releasing when you turn the spanner then you need to tighten the nut on the back of the tensioner bearing shaft.


It is a left handed thread, and if you give it a good heave it should tighten enough to allow you to take the tension off the belt - if not loosen it again and add a few drops of Loctite to the shaft and tighten it again to a torque of FT, give or take.






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Last edited by Mike Noc; 22nd July 2019 at 20:26..
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