questions for auto drivers

[Comfortably Numb]

In my auto Mitsubishi 4x4, I knock it into neutral below 5mph, slowing to a stop, as it prevents it pulling against the brakes. Then I apply the handbrake. I don't worry about drivers behind seeing my brake lights, as, at over 2 tons, it has a lot of inertia. And I expect professional driving standards of people driving anything heavier.

[Darcydog]

It’s a mixture of two of the options for me.

When just stopped - foot remains on brakes, slip into N, apply handbrake. Keep looking in mirror for traffic coming up behind. Foot stays on brakes until car behind has come to halt, then take foot off brake pedal.

That’s what I was taught to do years ago - and I still try and do so every time. I drive a manual now and find it easy and no bother to do this Auto or manual.

[bendrick]

Right I'm totally confused now.


I used to put the transmission in neutral when at lights for any length of time.

Then I caught sight of a mention of this issue on the web and the report said that slipping in into neutral and back again puts a lot more strain on the torque converter ( whatever that is ) than just leaving in drive and will wear it out much sooner plus also wear the gear selector out much sooner s well.


There were a number of articles all saying the same thing.


So I started leaving in drive with the footbrake on.

Now on reading this thread I've searched the net again for confirmation and just about every article and piece of advice from motoring journals and organisations says different things. Some say leave in drive, and some say put into neutral.

I'm now totally confused as to what the best thing to do is now.

[Terryf]

Originally Posted by bendrick

Right I'm totally confused now.


I used to put the transmission in neutral when at lights for any length of time.

Then I caught sight of a mention of this issue on the web and the report said that slipping in into neutral and back again puts a lot more strain on the torque converter ( whatever that is ) than just leaving in drive and will wear it out much sooner plus also wear the gear selector out much sooner s well.


There were a number of articles all saying the same thing.


So I started leaving in drive with the footbrake on.

Now on reading this thread I've searched the net again for confirmation and just about every article and piece of advice from motoring journals and organisations says different things. Some say leave in drive, and some say put into neutral.

I'm now totally confused as to what the best thing to do is now.

Me too! When I bought my 75 auto I read as much as I could on how to drive an auto. But that was over 15 years ago and I could have misunderstood, I have a vague memory of something in the auto system disconnecting if left for more than a few seconds in drive with brake on.
As for brake lights I have been stopped behind many cars with brake lights on at traffic lights, I treat them like headlights I don't look directly at them.

[HarryM1BYT]

I notice a lot of drivers of manual cars, on an uphill slope rocking the car on the clutch for ages, waiting at lights. A moments inattention, or their phone ringing and they rock back to the car behind, or hit the one in front.



Me - MANUAL, always into neutral and handbrake on, if its more than a second or two.


Me AUTO - Handbrake on and in neutral, if its more than a second or two.


I don't believe in burning brake light lamps out by keeping the footbrake pressed, or dazzling those behind.



The poor handbrake on my 75 when I bought it, provided all the impetus I needed to work out why the 75's handbrake was so poor and find a solution. I'm never confident, driving a vehicle with a poor handbrake.

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT

I notice a lot of drivers of manual cars, on an uphill slope rocking the car on the clutch for ages, waiting at lights. A moments inattention, or their phone ringing and they rock back to the car behind, or hit the one in front.



Me - MANUAL, always into neutral and handbrake on, if its more than a second or two.


Me AUTO - Handbrake on and in neutral, if its more than a second or two.


I don't believe in burning brake light lamps out by keeping the footbrake pressed, or dazzling those behind.



The poor handbrake on my 75 when I bought it, provided all the impetus I needed to work out why the 75's handbrake was so poor and find a solution. I'm never confident, driving a vehicle with a poor handbrake.

My dad taught me to go into neutral with a manual as it does the clutch no good and particularly as our clutches are prone to leaking the less the pedal
is under pressure the better.

Is it a lack of understanding about how the drive system works?

Like power steering, the number of people that turn the steering wheel when the car is stationary instead of turning when the car is rolling. I appreciate there are times when you need to turn when stationary. They do not realise the strain the steering is under, all that weight sitting on the front wheels

macafee2

[wraymond]

Autobox

Can’t help but get an impression that the term ‘life expectancy’ when applied to mechanical and electrical machinery is somehow mistakenly attributed to the driver’s life expectancy!

Seriously, if the manufacturers can’t design their products to withstand everyday usage then they deserve serious questioning. Important to say at once I’ve no qualification, and even less desire, to question superior knowledge from any quarter but, yes, always a but, this subject provokes some answers that seem apocryphal to me.

So much so, and this demonstrates how careful I am to avoid throwing grenades, I’ve just driven round the block to get my auto box to full working temp and then stopped to engage D, P, and N. Rev counter remained at 600 rpm while in D and P but went to 650 when in N.

Odometer reads 46000 since 2002, so likely to be lightly used, especially considering the owner from new was a mature woman of temperate and gentle nature, provided that definition is not raaceist or ageist or something. So, engine load increased in N. I understand that such instruments can be somewhat unreliable but at this level it seems unlikely.

So if D is retained and there is no increase in load either – or at least sufficient to stress the ‘box – why would the converter temp overheat in the two-minute traffic light stop? I realise that the temperature of auto box lubricant is significant but are we saying the two-minute traffic light standstill can do damage?

Also, I have my own view on handbrake efficiency and the load necessary to actually stretch the steel rod and its causes, but (yes, another one!) what is made useless by using it when stopped and D selected, please?

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by wraymond

Rev counter remained at 600 rpm while in D and P but went to 650 when in N. So, engine load increased in N.

I'd say that the engine load decreased in neutral Ray because it's no longer trying to drive the car forward against the applied brake. This is surely reflected by the increase in RPM.

Simon

[wraymond]

Originally Posted by SD1too

I'd say that the engine load decreased in neutral Ray because it's no longer trying to drive the car forward against the applied brake. This is surely reflected by the increase in RPM.

Simon

Yes Simon, I agree. My poor writing - I meant that the auto box shafts were faster thereby increasing internal friction and what effect this would be likely have on the substantial internals. Thanks, glad of the opportunity to correct my error!