Lower suspension arms-replacement - Page 9

BathRover · 20th October 2017, 21:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stag>75

Have a look at my recent thread,

Cheers. Out of interest, how much did the mechanic charge? Seems very tempting at this stage

BathRover · 24th October 2017, 09:42

I'm at wits' end now, can't get it to budge at all.

I've tried heating it, cooling it, hitting it with a hammer, wedging a hammer in and using the spring force, dropping the weight of the car on the stud and all of the above combined and it simply refuses to move.

Any final ideas before I get the angle grinder and drill out?
Or is there anyone in the Oxfordshire area with a bit more expertise?

EastPete · 24th October 2017, 09:53

Try a good strong bearing puller, if you can get your hands on one - these usually shift the taper joint on the inner subframe/arm joint.
Pete

Arctic · 24th October 2017, 10:48

Have you tried plus gas from the top of the sub frame ? letting it soak down the spindle, refit nut then use a 2.5 lb lump hammer, also can you make any metal wedges to force under the arm and sub frame then hammer those in, I am sure you will get it sorted out by the end of the day.

ryszard · 24th October 2017, 11:32

Hi,I know what you are going through and you have my sympathy, it was probably this time a year ago I spent over a couple of hours each day for over a week trying to get that ball joint to pop out.I could not work more than a few hours each day due to the cold and rain lying underneath on the concrete.I tried everything even hacksawing part of the arm offf for better leverage which resulted in no going back,I too used all the options,dropping the car off the jack,heat,crowbar,lump hammer,separator but it would not budge,also tried drilling it but found access to it restricted.I had no choice but to go out each day and keep at it,then one day after the usual upside down hammering it just popped out,I was so amazed i just lay there under the car for several minutes unable to believe it had finally surrendered! All I can say after my experience is keep at it,in all my years I've never had what seemed like an easy job turn into a nightmare.Good luck,if you were nearer I would pop over and give you a hand.Let us know of the result.Regards Ry...

roverbarmy · 24th October 2017, 16:13

Jack it up as high as you can to get a good swing at it.

T120 · 29th November 2017, 19:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastPete

Try a good strong bearing puller, if you can get your hands on one - these usually shift the taper joint on the inner subframe/arm joint.
Pete

I struggled with most of the suggested techniques for the best part of three days with the MOT retest time running out. A suggestion in an earlier thread showed a type of Bearing Separator which had always worked for him.

I found a cheep Chinese one for ~£18 (it might break and I did not have time) or a BERGEN Tools Bearing Separator & Assembly Kit, 6108 which I believe is American (A/F spanners needed) at £44. It must work and not break in order to save me the £50 retest so I bought the Bergan one.

Yes it worked! Managing to waggle the parts between the arm and the subframe was very difficult and I almost concluded that it was slightly to thick and could not be fitted. The Thrust Bolt could not lie in a central position (about 5-10mm of centre) but it could be offset. It survived perfectly.

Considering the time I had lost and the MOT retest it was worth £44. It will work next time.
However!!! It would have saved the day except for ????? - removing and refitting the bush!!! Hopefully the rubber may be softer and capable of sliding by hand when a new bush arrives tomorrow. Alas retest time expired.
For the stuck ball joint, you had it right Pete.

Mike24 · 29th November 2017, 22:56

This is a link to how I did mine: https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=259434
It worked very well. I don't think the images are available, but you may be able to work out what I did from the description alone.

EastPete · 30th November 2017, 09:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by T120

I struggled with most of the suggested techniques for the best part of three days with the MOT retest time running out. A suggestion in an earlier thread showed a type of Bearing Separator which had always worked for him.

I found a cheep Chinese one for ~£18 (it might break and I did not have time) or a BERGEN Tools Bearing Separator & Assembly Kit, 6108 which I believe is American (A/F spanners needed) at £44. It must work and not break in order to save me the £50 retest so I bought the Bergan one.

Yes it worked! Managing to waggle the parts between the arm and the subframe was very difficult and I almost concluded that it was slightly to thick and could not be fitted. The Thrust Bolt could not lie in a central position (about 5-10mm of centre) but it could be offset. It survived perfectly.

Considering the time I had lost and the MOT retest it was worth £44. It will work next time.
However!!! It would have saved the day except for ????? - removing and refitting the bush!!! Hopefully the rubber may be softer and capable of sliding by hand when a new bush arrives tomorrow. Alas retest time expired.
For the stuck ball joint, you had it right Pete.

If you have removed the arm, the bearing puller can be used to remove the bush, holding the arm in a vice. To help the new bush onto the arm, clean up the arm, and use some silicone grease or KY jelly to help the new bush slide on to the arm. Some after-market arms are a bit too thick for the new bushes, and need a bit of gentle filing down to get the new bush to fit.

Pete

BX51 2.0 V6 Tourer · 16th June 2018, 11:10

Full Mapco kit fitted in 2014 - see earlier up this thread. Premium price paid. 4 years and 40,000 miles later and they are shot. The OE ones did 52,000 miles. I am not too impressed with that. I can purchase some more MAPCO replacements at £230 or some cheap ones at £96

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-ROVER...UAAOSwLjhax3J3

Anyone any experience of the cheap ones or should I go MAPCO again?

24th October 2017, 10:48	#84
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,815 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	Have you tried plus gas from the top of the sub frame ? letting it soak down the spindle, refit nut then use a 2.5 lb lump hammer, also can you make any metal wedges to force under the arm and sub frame then hammer those in, I am sure you will get it sorted out by the end of the day. __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise "

24th October 2017, 16:13	#86
roverbarmy This is my second home Roverless + 1.7D Sportage Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: East Norfolk Posts: 7,087 Thanks: 729 Thanked 2,021 Times in 1,449 Posts	Jack it up as high as you can to get a good swing at it. __________________ Oil in my veins!

24th October 2017, 09:42	#82
BathRover Regular poster Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Abingdon Posts: 73 Thanks: 3 Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts	I'm at wits' end now, can't get it to budge at all. I've tried heating it, cooling it, hitting it with a hammer, wedging a hammer in and using the spring force, dropping the weight of the car on the stud and all of the above combined and it simply refuses to move. Any final ideas before I get the angle grinder and drill out? Or is there anyone in the Oxfordshire area with a bit more expertise?

24th October 2017, 09:53	#83
EastPete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ramsey, Cambs Posts: 1,874 Thanks: 626 Thanked 635 Times in 430 Posts	Try a good strong bearing puller, if you can get your hands on one - these usually shift the taper joint on the inner subframe/arm joint. Pete

24th October 2017, 11:32	#85
ryszard Gets stuck in Moonstone diesel,X351 Jaguar and now MG ZT 260 Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Northampton Posts: 684 Thanks: 288 Thanked 118 Times in 96 Posts	Hi,I know what you are going through and you have my sympathy, it was probably this time a year ago I spent over a couple of hours each day for over a week trying to get that ball joint to pop out.I could not work more than a few hours each day due to the cold and rain lying underneath on the concrete.I tried everything even hacksawing part of the arm offf for better leverage which resulted in no going back,I too used all the options,dropping the car off the jack,heat,crowbar,lump hammer,separator but it would not budge,also tried drilling it but found access to it restricted.I had no choice but to go out each day and keep at it,then one day after the usual upside down hammering it just popped out,I was so amazed i just lay there under the car for several minutes unable to believe it had finally surrendered! All I can say after my experience is keep at it,in all my years I've never had what seemed like an easy job turn into a nightmare.Good luck,if you were nearer I would pop over and give you a hand.Let us know of the result.Regards Ry...

29th November 2017, 22:56	#88
Mike24 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTI Auto Saloon Connoisseur SE Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Coventry Posts: 358 Thanks: 166 Thanked 67 Times in 56 Posts	This is a link to how I did mine: https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=259434 It worked very well. I don't think the images are available, but you may be able to work out what I did from the description alone.

16th June 2018, 11:10	#90
BX51 2.0 V6 Tourer Avid contributor Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Cardiff Posts: 105 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts	Full Mapco kit fitted in 2014 - see earlier up this thread. Premium price paid. 4 years and 40,000 miles later and they are shot. The OE ones did 52,000 miles. I am not too impressed with that. I can purchase some more MAPCO replacements at £230 or some cheap ones at £96 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-ROVER...UAAOSwLjhax3J3 Anyone any experience of the cheap ones or should I go MAPCO again?