Our 1.8T running temps

[ceedy]

So with new rad, new Thermostat multiple flushings ,
nil /negligible water leaks
Clean water in at the moment
Extremely good compressions, runs like a Hot sewing machine ,
Goes like a rocket .
Both fan speeds working.
The car runs close to 100 most of the time.


C.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by ceedy

The car runs close to 100 most of the time.

I'm afraid I'd say that there's still something wrong Chris. That's too hot. Have you bled it properly? Has the engine got two thermostats?

Simon

[ceedy]

Used the proper filling method. then afterwards pressure filled coolant in through the Rear Bleed valve whilst the motor was running.

So can't think there are any air locks , but its still getting too hot , and occasionally hits over 100 and fans comes on even then driving ?

Got me a bit stumped .. unless its a more insidius type of HGF

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by ceedy

Used the proper filling method. then afterwards pressure filled coolant in through the Rear Bleed valve whilst the motor was running.

But wait a minute Chris, "the proper filling method" does not include pressure filling or running the engine whilst doing so.

Now, as I am not an expert on the 1.8 engine, could you tell me where the rear bleed valve is?

And you're sure that you don't have two thermostats?

Simon

[ceedy]

Probably Me using the wrong Description, Think its more commonly known as the jiggle vave??

As the correct method didn't seem to improve anything , I decided to make sure there was no air still hiding by using a garden Pump i have to top up the coolant in via that rubber tube connected to the jiggle valve and inot the rear of the motor.

just a lo pressure insertion of fluids that topped up the level after the standard filling bleeding procedure.

C.

[kaiser]

Haven't read the whole thread, only the last couple of posts.
1. The 1.8T is not difficult to fill correctly, at all!
2. The fan should never come on while driving say above 30mph or so, unless AC is used, or you have slowed down from a high speed.
3. If the car has run in traffic, and has been up to temperature, there is no chance of an air lock at all. If the system has water to the MIN mark, and parked on level ground when cold after that drive. The engine has no air lock. Very simple.
4. If you loose water, you have either a leak (T-Piece, water pump, inlet manifold, cap, radiator, joints and all plastic parts are the fav. spots) or exhaust pressure in the system, forcing water out the cap.

Also, there is a possibility that you might have a faulty sender, you can prepare the outside temp with the engine temp on a stone cold unit, to give you an idea. I cannot guarantee that will be accurate, but it might give you an idea.

And if I have repeated stuff already said, sorry. This is an early cold morning in Johannesburg, and I don't feel like trawling through the whole post!

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by ceedy

As the correct method didn't seem to improve anything ...

Well perhaps that was because the problem lies elsewhere. I really don't think that your garden pump method is a good idea Chris.

As I've already mentioned, the presence of a conventional thermostat in addition to a PRT is known to cause temperature problems. If you haven't opened the housing to check this then you should do so immediately.

Simon

[ceedy]

Well that was awful job.... get at the rear stat housing..

but after lots of technical language , found it has no stat in there , well actually a stat with the guts taken out .

C.

[kaiser]

I really can't see that two thermostats should have any influence at all if they work!
If you have one thermostat, it opens with hot water. If you have two, they will do the same.

[murphyv310]

Originally Posted by kaiser

I really can't see that two thermostats should have any influence at all if they work!
If you have one thermostat, it opens with hot water. If you have two, they will do the same.

Unless I've got it wrong, surely one thermostat would need to open first then the next down stream will open after, this must raise the temperature in the block before both have sufficiently opened.
Then a larger flood of cold water will close the first down with the second then closing slightly later.
The overall result must be large swings in temperature, hardly consistent for reliability!