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Old 1st July 2008, 20:12   #81
Zeb
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Originally Posted by <James|Rover> View Post
Zeb I misunderstood that one as I thought those ebeg prices were good...especially as I've been quoted £800ish by SMC High Wycombe and the Best of British Rover Spares peeps. But I will certainly take you up on your previous offer and contact you for a new one

Unfortunately (or fortunately perhaps for Dragrad!) Dragrad now has the one and only spare I possesed....nevertheless I will see if I cannot source another one but cannot promise anything sadly
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Old 18th July 2008, 15:41   #82
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An update...I have just dragged the '75 to Euro Cars (me in the 4x4 > tow rope> SWMBO in the '75!) and I must say they look really geared up to working on Rovers. The guy I spoke to well understood the problem, was very sympathetic and gave me confidence that they will do everything possible to get me up and running again. They also stated they will check it out and not proceed with parts/expense until they report to me first. So watch this space and I will advise on progress.
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Old 18th July 2008, 16:12   #83
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James

Good luck, I hope you get a speedy and cost effective solution....
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Old 18th July 2008, 18:40   #84
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I've been reading this thread with great interest. The water scenario seems to fit - the original cause - but I would add one other thing.

Reading through it there was a moment when you were unsure if fuel was reaching the engine, this concern was satisfied when you heard the pump wirring away at the back of the engine. I had this 2 weeks ago and couldn't work out why it wouldn't fire - until an AA chappy plugged in his gismo and revealed that the in tank fuel pump wasn't working.

Even if the in tank pump fails the secondary pump by the engine still runs but doesn't have sufficient pressure to fire the injector pump to it shuts the system down.

If you still can't get it to fire after doing all the electrical wizardry lift up the rear seat squab on the offside and listen for the pump wirring with the ingition on. If you can hear it then fine, if not then this might be the problem.

Just a thought.

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Old 22nd July 2008, 09:07   #85
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Originally Posted by Hantsdave View Post
I've been reading this thread with great interest. The water scenario seems to fit - the original cause - but I would add one other thing.

Reading through it there was a moment when you were unsure if fuel was reaching the engine, this concern was satisfied when you heard the pump wirring away at the back of the engine. I had this 2 weeks ago and couldn't work out why it wouldn't fire - until an AA chappy plugged in his gismo and revealed that the in tank fuel pump wasn't working.

Even if the in tank pump fails the secondary pump by the engine still runs but doesn't have sufficient pressure to fire the injector pump to it shuts the system down.

If you still can't get it to fire after doing all the electrical wizardry lift up the rear seat squab on the offside and listen for the pump wirring with the ingition on. If you can hear it then fine, if not then this might be the problem.

Just a thought.

David.
Thanks Dave, they have checked that and report a good fuel flow - it's definately an electrical prob according to them
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Old 22nd July 2008, 09:17   #86
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I am speaking with Alex who is is the engineer at Euro Cars and who is working on my car (and incidently sounds very clued up and experienced on using this eqipment and with R75) and he states that T4 is reporting five unknown faults with my ECU. If he fits his own spare ECU (not expecting it to start obviously) then he is not getting any faults. We are therefore now suggesting that either my ECU is still faulty or just that the security codes are out of sequence (I'm told these change and update every time the car is started?). So unless anyone disagrees, I gues I have two options; either get hold of another new/"virgin" ECU, or have my ECU "virginised" which again I am told is possible with R75, but only by very few! Alex knows this to be the case because a customer of his with a similar problem sent his off and the same one came back as new, uncoded. Problem is Alex doesn't know where his customer sent it, doh! Does anyone know of an outfit I can send mine to, or should I just get hold of another? Any comments concerning this or corrections to my thinking graciously received.
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Old 22nd July 2008, 12:00   #87
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The fault codes are stored in the ECU and could be old ones that didn't come up while the new one was fitted, especially if it the engine couldn't even be started. Doesn't really tell you anything, unless your engineer knows what the codes mean and they point to a relevant problem.

As for "security codes", is he talking about the immobiliser? If this were inhibing starting, the starter wouldn't even crank the engine.

Could this "virginising" procedure be the same as the reset done by the ECU Doctor?

Given the history and the advice already given, based on the experience of other owners, I'd say it was time to bite the bullet and get the new ECU, unless those codes point to some other plausible cause.
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Old 22nd July 2008, 12:55   #88
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Originally Posted by Moonstone View Post
The fault codes are stored in the ECU and could be old ones that didn't come up while the new one was fitted, especially if it the engine couldn't even be started. Doesn't really tell you anything, unless your engineer knows what the codes mean and they point to a relevant problem.

As for "security codes", is he talking about the immobiliser? If this were inhibing starting, the starter wouldn't even crank the engine.

Could this "virginising" procedure be the same as the reset done by the ECU Doctor?

Given the history and the advice already given, based on the experience of other owners, I'd say it was time to bite the bullet and get the new ECU, unless those codes point to some other plausible cause.
The Doctor states he is unable to "virginise" the ECU. He said he can do it on certain cars (Mercedes etc) but as far as he is aware it isn't possible on Rover as the security and encryption on the rolling codes just won't allow it.
I don't know what he meant when he said he'd done a software reset when I sent it to him the second time.
I just get the impression there is so much grey area here and no-one seems to know the real problem or what to do. So the general prescription is to just get a new one, when all along it might have been possible to work through the sympton/fault, but if only somneone knew how to proceed with diagnosing etc...so I guess to bite the bullet is what I shall end up doing!
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Old 31st July 2008, 10:59   #89
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Default ECU part numbers

I am trying to locate a replacement ECU for my car and having problems with identifying the correct one re part numbers etc. Remember the car is a 75 CDT. The chassis number is SARRJHLHC1D201134 , the engine number 86019634700549 , and was registered 12 Dec 2000.

The existing, suspected faulty ECU has numbers on it 0 281 001 895.

I have seen another on ebay and this apparently has numbers on it 80 0 281 010 811 - NNN500340

So would this one work OK? Or what do I need to do...what are the rules about part numbers and ECUs?

Help with this would be appreciated
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Old 31st July 2008, 12:34   #90
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When mine flooded I got mine from these guys

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROVER-75-Engin...3286.m20.l1116

hope this helps

Cheers, Gaz
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