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5th March 2015, 23:46 | #51 |
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Doctor, I forgot.
I've tried the (free/lite version) Torque app with a cheap reader and when it came to anything more than the very basic OBD2 stuff, I quite frankly didn't trust it at all. I'm not saying it's automatically wrong, but it threw out stuff that wasn't consistent, imo.
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5th March 2015, 23:52 | #52 |
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lol, thats easy to answer lol, their usually it begins rattling then they get broken up badly or end up empty, plus bear in mind once ive replaced it cat problem related codes are gone, till next time.....
So thats self explanitory but its obviously an end result not a cause Personally I belive its a combination of a lot of engine issues and I feel sure im going to end up doing much much more to eventually get this fixed properly, the stuff here that im playing witn atm is just the begining and im pretty sure the engine is incorectly timed too but thats for another day Oh and as goes for the torque app, I have the paid for version and ive used it a lot recently and if im honest I cant really see a problem, its not 100% but it gives you a fair idea as to what is going on and for what it cost im not complaining but the car is now back together again and it will be on the t4 at the thryberg meet on the 21st (asuming someone is there with one lol) where I can confirm things better and get a more up to date version of events
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Follow My Threadhttp://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=205273 Kev.......2005 MG ZT 190 Ignition Blue Lovin IT Done So Far : Lower Engine Mount, Cam Belts And Water Pump, Thermostat, Coolant Temp Sensor, Intake Manifold Gasket F/B and Upper Seals, Crankcase Breather Pipework and Brass-t- Piece, Catchtank, Battery, Mg Rover Licence Plates, Led Number Plate Lights, Led Side Lights, White H7 Headlights,DD Unit, Painted Black Dash, Auto Boot Lift Mod. Last edited by Delirious; 5th March 2015 at 23:59.. |
6th March 2015, 00:06 | #53 | |
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Quote:
But, even then, the ECU should be picking this up and throwing more than low level misfires, imo. Whatever, it seems obvious that there's something majorly wrong and there's no way breathers etc will be causing this, imo.
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6th March 2015, 16:54 | #54 |
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continued......
ello, right here's the next part
ok so now to remove the thermostat remove the 2 clips holding the left hand pipe and take off the 3 pipes on the right of the thermostat housing DSCN0429.jpg then remove the securing bolt DSCN0430.jpg then pull out the thermostat housing and the rear pipe DSCN0432.jpg as you can see SD1 was correct and the housing was leaking at the bottom seal DSCN0433.jpg then clean the area ready for fitting of the new one which is just reversal of removal i used a little clean engine oil on all of the rubber seals to aid fitting DSCN0442.jpg
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6th March 2015, 17:44 | #55 |
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Gauzes
ok next job are the gauzes which were pretty simple
it was just a case of pushing them into their place in the rocker cover and cleaned the faces on the cylinder head and rocker covers DSCN0438.jpg DSCN0441.jpg then i used sealant on the faces ready for re-fitting new gasket used DSCN0436.jpg and then refitted and re torqued the bolts down in the correct order DSCN0439.jpg DSCN0444.jpg job done
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6th March 2015, 18:35 | #56 |
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Injectors
ok next was the injectors
the seal kit i bought had each seal labelled A. being the top B the center and C the bottom DSCN0449.jpg so really easy to set up, lubricated each seal with a little clean engine oil and pushed the injector into place in the manifold then cleaned both the faces on the cylinder heads for the manifolds to be fitted and again used some sealant on those faces DSCN0450.jpg DSCN0451.jpg fitted a new gasket DSCN0453.jpg And then bolted the manifolds into place DSCN0454.jpg all good
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6th March 2015, 18:48 | #57 |
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Fuel Rail
Next was the Fuel Rail
The top of each injector was lubricated with a little engine oil and the rail pushed into place the end cap seal was replaced and the interconnecting pipe seal was also replaced, again a little engine oil to lubricate and they pushed home DSCN0461.jpg DSCN0463.jpg then the clip was fitted, this was a little tricky as the end cap didnt want to fit fully in at first, but it went in the end then i fitted the front bank fuel rail the same way DSCN0465.jpg tightened the 4 bolts up and checked the fitting at this point i thought id reconnect the fuel pipe and check for leaks DSCN0466.jpg fortunatly for me all good
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6th March 2015, 19:04 | #58 |
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Next ???
next was reconnecting the electronics
fitted the cam sensor back onto the front bank cylinder head DSCN0468.jpg and laid out the main front bank wiring loom, reconnecting the crank sensor reconnected the injector wiring and plugged the alternator back in DSCN0469.jpg DSCN0469.jpg and the front bank coil packs DSCN0470.jpg and then the rear injector wiring and coil packs DSCN0472.jpg and this is the mystery earth tag that you will see mentioned lots of times on this site as it is usually accidentally missed when refitting DSCN0473.jpg
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6th March 2015, 19:13 | #59 |
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Manifold.......
next is the black manifold
firstly fitted the 3 green seals onto the rear manifold DSCN0475.jpg then fitted the black seals into the black manifold DSCN0476.jpg DSCN0478.jpg then its just a case of lowering the black manifold onto the metal ones and tightening DSCN0480.jpg then re-attach all the throttle wiring and breather pipes DSCN0481.jpg
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6th March 2015, 19:21 | #60 |
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last bit ....
just a case of reattaching the last few bits
so front water pipes to the radiator DSCN0482.jpg the coolant bottle DSCN0484.jpg the airbox DSCN0483.jpg and the breather pipework DSCN0487.jpg DSCN0485.jpg top up the coolant and bleed it through using the bleed screw on the lower coolant pipe and job done
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