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Old 19th February 2013, 20:51   #41
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A new Badge and a re paint of the mesh and the front end will come up a treat. The ambient temperature sensor appears to have come off it's mounting..


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Old 19th February 2013, 20:57   #42
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Then, I rediscovered my love of scrapyards...

I got quite a few bits, including a drivers side cup holder.




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Old 19th February 2013, 21:56   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolasacucumber View Post
One other strange problem occured on my journey home - when I got to 60mph & above, the red light on the dash for an open door, bonnet, boot etc came on. I pulled straight over to check, and all were shut properly.

Pulled off, and the same thing happened again, but only over 60, if I slowed down, it went off!

I'm guessing there is a faulty sensor, but that may be fun to locate & check...
Bonnet. Lift it and drop it.
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Old 19th February 2013, 22:26   #44
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Managed to sort the bonnet problem temporarily, but now the problem that the switch doesn't have the rubber cover on, so I'll have to refit that some time soon.

New front & rear badges are on the to do list, can't decide whether to go standard MG colours, or something a bit different like black & silver...

Front end respray won't be happening though, I needed to have a bit of a fun car on a budget!

I have just bought a bottle of t-cut though, so when I'm able (and when the silicone is dry) it'll be getting a thoroughly good wash, then I'll see how many of the scratches, swirls & scuffs out. In my previous experience, the first t-cutting session works wonders!

Where should that sensor be mounted? Is it a bumper off job?
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Old 20th February 2013, 05:26   #45
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Where should that sensor be mounted? Is it a bumper off job?
At the top of the mesh in the location that the Sensor is hanging, you should see the post which it is pushed onto. If you remove the inspection panel which is between the wheel arch liner and the under tray, there may be just enough room to push it back on.
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Old 20th February 2013, 08:04   #46
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Thanks Pab. I'd like to get the mesh painted when I get another day free. I need to get a Haynes ordered, but my assumption is that the bumnper needs to come off to get to all of the mesh?

Can't see it coming off without it! I can see all of the bolts accross the scuttle panel, but I guess they'll be other fixings that need removing?

p.s. - Is my interior leather or pvc? I reckon pvc, but I can't be sure!

Thanks
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Old 20th February 2013, 08:16   #47
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Originally Posted by coolasacucumber View Post
Thanks Pab. I'd like to get the mesh painted when I get another day free. I need to get a Haynes ordered, but my assumption is that the bumnper needs to come off to get to all of the mesh?

Can't see it coming off without it! I can see all of the bolts accross the scuttle panel, but I guess they'll be other fixings that need removing?

p.s. - Is my interior leather or pvc? I reckon pvc, but I can't be sure!

Thanks
There's plenty of information contained on the Forum regarding bumper removal, easy enough task if the fixings aren't seized.

Alcantara seats are leather on the parts that are in contact with your body. The only seat style which is PVC on Facelift cars is the Summit style.
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Old 20th February 2013, 10:00   #48
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Very enjoyable thread this. Thanks for posting. By the way ...the rubber cover for the "bonnet open" switch can be glued/siliconed in place....I did the same with mine...saves taking the bumper off..
Best of luck.
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Old 20th February 2013, 10:00   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolasacucumber View Post
Managed to sort the bonnet problem temporarily, but now the problem that the switch doesn't have the rubber cover on, so I'll have to refit that some time soon.

New front & rear badges are on the to do list, can't decide whether to go standard MG colours, or something a bit different like black & silver...

Front end respray won't be happening though, I needed to have a bit of a fun car on a budget!

I have just bought a bottle of t-cut though, so when I'm able (and when the silicone is dry) it'll be getting a thoroughly good wash, then I'll see how many of the scratches, swirls & scuffs out. In my previous experience, the first t-cutting session works wonders!

Where should that sensor be mounted? Is it a bumper off job?
Quote:
Originally Posted by pab View Post
At the top of the mesh in the location that the Sensor is hanging, you should see the post which it is pushed onto. If you remove the inspection panel which is between the wheel arch liner and the under tray, there may be just enough room to push it back on.

You will also get to the sensor if you take the undertray off this will give you a chance to inspect the wiring inside the bumper for any chafing etc if bumper is being taken off you will remove the slam panel bolts two under each wing and four under the front bumper then one or a couple at each triangle corner trays.

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Old 22nd February 2013, 16:36   #50
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My rear drivers side fog light was out, so changed it, still nothing. I looked at the electrical clip - and inside there was a bit of rust, same on the board that houses the light bulbs. I gave it a rub down with a file, plugged it back in, and as long as I didn't push it all the way, it worked fine.

But - in true MG style as I'm finding out, one problem cured means 2 problems found...

The rear lights are now doing something odd. With the lights & engine on, the passenger side light is off, but the brake light is on (without the brakes) and the drivers side light (the bulb at the top) is on normally as it should be.

Has anyone else had something similar?
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