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26th April 2008, 19:24 | #31 |
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Rover 75 Tourer 2L CDT Club SE 2002 Join Date: Apr 2008
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Thanks Kandyman, really do appeciate all the help given to me from everyone. Just to let know, and through the help given, I was successful in removing the ECU thingy, quite proud of my self as not been under the bonnet and messing about for thirty years, them little grommet things are a bit scary to get out but used the sticky tape, as suggested to me, and worked a treat. Didn't try the other test that Ron suggested as Viking, who did the diagnostic, said they had already tried that.
It's already packed and soon to be posted to the ECU Doctor so he can make it better and hopefully get my car back on the road. Cheers again KB |
26th April 2008, 19:45 | #32 |
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ROVER 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE Limousine 2004 Join Date: Oct 2006
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Well done KB
We will soon have you doing/adding all sorts to your car Keep us posted on the findings. |
8th May 2008, 10:21 | #33 |
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Hi guys, cast your minds back a couple of weeks when I was a brand new newbie and I posed the problem with my motor. To bring you up to date The ECU Docter has given the unit a clean bill of health in that it's in perfect condition, which is good and bad news really, good that it's not the ECU but bad in that I still have to find the problem.
It was mentioned that the MAF could also be the cause of the problem, which I will attempt to do once ECU is back and fitted. Should I get the results that were said i.e. the running at low revs would improve once unplugged, therefore a replacement was required so any advice, please, of what information I would need to get the correct item and where to get it from to make my car better, or any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated (only to do with the car thanks). Cheers KB |
8th May 2008, 14:59 | #34 | |
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Rover 75 Facelift Conn SE Tourer CDTi Manual Join Date: Jan 2007
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Quote:
First is to get a MAF from x-part. This would be the OEM route, however there have been reoprts that the recent batch of x-part MAF have been very hit and miss. Second (and the route that I took) is to get a Pb MAF and MAFAM from roverron see his banner ad at the top of the page. One final thing, I have the bosch MAF that I removed from my car as I suspected it was faulty, but it was not giving the symptoms as bad as toy describe, so if you like I could send it to you for you to fit and test (assuming you would send it back to me after testing). Having said that if you just unplug the MAF that should be test enough. Rob |
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8th May 2008, 15:41 | #35 |
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Thanks for the offer Rob and the info. Will see what happens when put back together.
The second option you mentioned, Roverrons stuff, is that a replacement for the MAF and also increases the perfomance as well??? Cheers KB |
8th May 2008, 15:51 | #36 | |
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The simplest thing to do would be to unplug the MAF. To do this you will need to remove the engine cover and the air filter cover, this then provides access to the MAF and you simply un plug it. I ran mine unplugged for a couple of months, with no ill effects, but long term running with it disconnected is not ideal, I understand. Rob Rob |
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8th May 2008, 15:56 | #37 |
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Rover 75 Facelift Conn SE Tourer CDTi Manual Join Date: Jan 2007
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If you have a look at this thread:
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ead.php?t=2207 it shows how to access the MAF and clean it. in your case I would suggest just unplugging it in the first instance. If that makes no real difference then I'd suggest you should start looking for another possible cause to your problem. Hope this helps Rob |
9th May 2008, 19:30 | #38 |
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Hi guys, I'd like to say a great big thank you to all of you for basically holding my hand and guiding me through this problem I thought I had with the ECU.
The ECU arrived back lunchtime so I fitted it back in OK, started her up and it was in the same sorry state as before, so, with these wonderful instuctions I actually managed to take things apart and remove the MAF switch, got things back together again (those screws at the back of the air filter are pigs to get in using my great chunky hands) switched on the engine and WOW it sounded normal. Put all the other bits a pieces back together and took it for a run and it seemed sound as a pound. I am right chuffed at the moment. Right, not trying to push it but need to go from Birmingham to Chelmsford (about 145 miles) on Sunday, would I be at risk if I did that sort of journey? I suppose the next thing I need to do is talk to Roverron, would that be correct? Again, a great big thanks to all you guys, I know most of you do this sort of thing with your eyes shut but to me it was like "one small step for mankind" type of moment. Cheers KB |
10th May 2008, 05:57 | #39 | |
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Personally I wouldn't worry about your trip to essex without a MAF, I probably did a couple of thousand miles with it disconnected with no ill effects. As I said before you really have four options: 1. PIERBURGH MAF and MAFAM from Roverron which will sort your problem cost around £105 2. PIERBURGH MAF and SYNERGY 2 from Roverron which will sort your problem AND give you a serious performance boost cost around £235 3. Get an 'offical' MAF from Rimmer Bros (part number ZUA000050SLP) which are a direct replacement for your current one. These have been prone to failing very quickly, but may be getting better now, Cost around £85 4. You could try cleaning the MAF as described in the how to I linked to in an earlier post. You never know it may just be cover in NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-, but I think this is unlikely Cost nowt but your time! My advice ould be go for option 2 if you can afford it, as the extra power boost is impressive and transforms the car. If thats a bit too much or you don't want extra power then I'd say option 1. Good luck. Rob Last edited by ikorodu; 10th May 2008 at 07:19.. |
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10th May 2008, 06:49 | #40 | |
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