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Old 28th January 2015, 09:54   #21
Arctic
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Hi Lee.
few more pics below which may help but you will note and see when you come to put the bearing back on that it slants and can only go on one way also, and yes feed top end in first when re-fitting you can the had the three bolts to hold the strut in place while you lift the disc hub to align up the strut arm/leg Arctic
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Old 28th January 2015, 10:27   #22
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Hi,

You have a few details here: http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=429651
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Old 31st January 2015, 17:50   #23
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Just to say that I have finally finished fitting the new spring to my wife's CDTI Auto, had a big delay in the springs being delivered due to the weather. I have had a real struggle though what with firstly trying to re-fit the strut. I couldn't fit it in the bottom arm it wouldn't drop low enough even with the spring compressors still attached, firstly the threads were fouling the inner wheel arch so I had to remove them and cut the thread length down but even then I was about a half inch from fitting them in. I decided there was no option but to remove the lower ball joint, my god this is a complete nightmare on your own without the strut to support the drive shaft!!!. Anyway I started it yesterday afternoon as soon as the springs were delivered and after lying in the snow and getting completely soaked through to the bone I lost my voice from the cold and damp!!!, a bonus for the wife I suppose?!!. I left the ball joint soaking in duck oil all night to aid it's removal but almost pulled the drive shaft out trying to force down the lower arm while holding the hub assembly. Finally got everything back together at dinner time today and have one slight problem. The wife took it out for a drive and it drove lovely except it pulls to the right quite a bit, I haven't had a chance to drive it myself yet so don't know just how bad it is but I am assuming that the new nearside spring is causing this pulling and when the weather improves and I fit the offside it will go away, what does everyone think?. I would just like to thank all who have contributed to this thread with a special thanks to Arctic for his added pictures.
I have definitely put everything back correctly as it's pretty much an idiot proof job but I would like some extra input on the pulling issue more to put my wife's mind at ease more than mine. Thanks.
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Old 31st January 2015, 18:28   #24
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Hi Lee.
Tomorrow if you have time and have not caught a bad cold through doing the work in the snow just double check the bolts nuts extra, it could be that the front wheels may need or needed to be aligned, and fitting a new spring as showed it up more, if you have a tyre place near pop it in and get the tracking checked have all corners checked not just the front, cost by me is £30 check is free.

Also check the tyre pressure and it's condition if need be swap back to front but also make sure that are balanced, just throwing some suggestions into the ring so to speak.

To late now but always best to undo the ball joint when changing the strut or removing for any reason, cheers Arctic
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Old 31st January 2015, 18:44   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dadragon View Post
I decided there was no option but to remove the lower ball joint, my god this is a complete nightmare on your own ... but almost pulled the drive shaft out trying to force down the lower arm while holding the hub assembly.
That sounds familiar Lee! I had exactly the same experience with Mrs. SD1too's Citroën hatchback when it needed new shocks. Laser Tools sell some rather nice levers which I reckon I'll use the next time I have to push down on a lower suspension arm.

Simon
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Old 31st January 2015, 20:27   #26
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That sounds familiar Lee! I had exactly the same experience with Mrs. SD1too's Citroën hatchback when it needed new shocks. Laser Tools sell some rather nice levers which I reckon I'll use the next time I have to push down on a lower suspension arm.

Simon
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I find it is best to undo the pinch bolt remove then using a piece of wood 2"x2" and tap the low arm out works a treat
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Old 31st January 2015, 20:29   #27
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I leave a spring compressor on 3 coils and put the leg in short, fits ok, bolt up and take the compressor off..
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Old 31st January 2015, 20:55   #28
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Klarzy, that's what I tried but I couldn't compress enough, your compressors are obviously better than mine. Now I've done the job I will invest in some better units.
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Old 31st January 2015, 21:07   #29
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Arctic To late now but always best to undo the ball joint when changing the strut or removing for any reason, cheers Arctic.
I would have done this at the start but remember the spring broke and as the snow was falling it was quicker to remove the strut as it was short enough not to have removed the lower ball joint. Obviously when the strut is in place and held with the pinch bolt its easy to split the ball joint but really hard to do when no strut is there.!!. I did double check all nuts and bolts before letting the wife drive but I will check th tyres tomorrow for the correct pressures as It's been stood for nearly a week in the deep snow.
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Old 1st February 2015, 12:00   #30
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Just took the wife's car out and it's fine, I knew I should have driven it myself instead of depending on the Mrs to check it. Ok it did pull very slightly to the left, not right as she said, the tyres were down 2 psi on one side and 4psi on the other (nearside that was). Tyres now equally inflated and it's fine. There was a slight groan from the nearside when turning the wheel which happened once but I expect that's the rubber at the top finding it's feet against the new spring. All's well that ends well!!
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