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Old 17th March 2013, 19:17   #21
Arctic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VMax1000 View Post
When the car runs, disconnect the battery. Alternator should have enough power to keep the car running and give around 14 V.

A battery that won't charge (or hold charge) will drive an alternator to its maximum output, running very hot and with a burning smell (lacquer on the coils, rectifier diodes)

Had to jump start my car at work last week, got home and noticed the alternator being very hot and smelly. Charged the battery overnight and no problems now. Probably due to the fact that I mostly did small trips lately, in the cold weather, with all electric gadgets on. Drained the battery over a couple of weeks due to lack of sufficient charge and then finally died.

Light didn't come on so in your case it might very well be the alternator

All fine now though
HI Cheers I and Rob put another battery on the car and every time we disconnected the jump leads it would not run the car just died so we came to the conclusion that battery was no good put my original back on and jumped it car ran but the burning smell stated almost right away.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NigelOBB View Post
Does sound like the alternator as has been said across the battery you should have around 13.7 and anything between 14.2-14.75 when charging.. I would check the battery to..

Battery was a bit low but is only 2yr old and is a bosch with 5yr warranty on it so if it turns out that it will not hold charge i can return



Alternators are quite easy to fix.. The procedure is a bit like that for the fan motor for the brushes and gently clean the commuter with a fine wire brush or wet n dry n a stanley blade to the into the groves. If the bearing has gone your can pick a replacement up at a push from an auto electrician.. Should take about 2 hours when you first do one.. And if it works you have a spare
Will check this out once i have a new one fitted thank you. Arctic.

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Originally Posted by ukmoobs View Post
Hi Steve with what you have described with the sweet smell, one of the diodes has more than likely burnt out in your Alternator.
Will also check this cheers


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Originally Posted by brgcdti View Post
Just a thought and probably not worth the typing but ATF gives a sweet smell when burnt too ... power steering reservoir been topped up and some spilt on alternator (and anti-freeze too ) ?. Most likely alternator gone bye bye though withe age and mileage ...

Chris
Hi Chris
I have am very careful when topping up any fluids in that area rags and alway use a funnel to top with but thank you for the thought cheers Arctic.
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Old 17th March 2013, 19:26   #22
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...because if the car is still running on it's original one it as done well to reach 136000
....my car has done 135,854 mile
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Old 17th March 2013, 19:30   #23
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Hope you get sorted.. I had a habit of trashing Alternators when off roading always carried a spare.. Got a dab hand at rebuilding Mitsubishi ones
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Old 17th March 2013, 21:41   #24
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....my car has done 135,854 mile
I wouldn't worry about it just yet. My alternator is original at 327,000 miles and still working fine.
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Old 3rd April 2013, 20:59   #25
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Default Alternator Amp 115/120/150

Still not got round to this yet got new belts and have also been supplied with a alternator ( Sean to the rescue again) but the weather as stopped me along with other jobs i would just like to varify that the alternator below is the one for the job, reason for asking is that it states on the unit 50/115A as opposed to ones i have seen and found online reading 120A-150A also the YLE 102 500 thows up as a freelander are these ok or even stronger as i have heard on the grape vine cheers Arctic
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Old 3rd April 2013, 23:50   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arctic View Post
Still not got round to this yet got new belts and have also been supplied with a alternator ( Sean to the rescue again) but the weather as stopped me along with other jobs i would just like to varify that the alternator below is the one for the job, reason for asking is that it states on the unit 50/115A as opposed to ones i have seen and found online reading 120A-150A also the YLE 102 500 thows up as a freelander are these ok or even stronger as i have heard on the grape vine cheers Arctic
120/150 is a minimum maximum rating in amps so it is a higher rating than the 50/115.
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Old 4th April 2013, 00:45   #27
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120/150 is a minimum maximum rating in amps so it is a higher rating than the 50/115.
i Anthony
When i said stronger i menat as in longer lasting the rating i understand i was trying to establish if these can be used on the diesel 2.0 CDTi version i have been told that the one i mention was just before they changed to the 120A but ahve not established as yet if the move was needed or it just came as progress anyone got any thoughts or proof on this please. Arctic.
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Old 4th April 2013, 09:19   #28
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It will be fine 120-150 is the rating for max loading it will still charge at the same voltage etc,its common in the 4x4 world to have bigger or uprate your alternator so you can run more accessories.. Mine was kitted out for over landing and had tv DVD VHF and HF transceivers a pc running sat nav fridge winch front and back Twin Batteries. As long as the fixings are the same the car will only take what it needs
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Old 4th April 2013, 23:21   #29
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Originally Posted by NigelOBB View Post
It will be fine 120-150 is the rating for max loading it will still charge at the same voltage etc,its common in the 4x4 world to have bigger or uprate your alternator so you can run more accessories.. Mine was kitted out for over landing and had tv DVD VHF and HF transceivers a pc running sat nav fridge winch front and back Twin Batteries. As long as the fixings are the same the car will only take what it needs
Hi Nigel
Thank you for your input and now that it seem the alternator 115A is ok as the fixing are the same i have a plan for the weekend again weather permiting as always lately oh and the pulley arriving on time cheers Arctic.
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Old 6th April 2013, 22:56   #30
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Today Saturday 6th April i managed to get the car ready up on the ramps and axle stand to replace the alternator and belts,below are some snap shots of the serpentine drive belt and the A/C belt which looks to have seen better days, tomorrow i will take photo's of how i went about removing the alternator and belts and replacing them, fingers crossed all goes to plan cheers Arctic.
A/C belt not in very good condition so it looks like i would have been doing this in the very near future

cracked all along the belt

nice pic of how the Auxiliary drivebelt serpentines round the pulleys
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