Defrosting on cold mornings.

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by SD1too

There is a disadvantage to this method Chris. The engine will take much longer to reach normal operating temperature and so engine wear is increased.
Manufacturers always recommend for good reason that the windows are defrosted manually, the engine started and the car driven away immediately. Use the air conditioning windscreen defrosting mode to prevent misting. Your K series engine deliberately has a low capacity cooling system further to aid fast warm-up.

A bit of exercise on a cold morning is good for your health too!

Simon

Simon.--+

Personally I have a slightly different take on this engine warm-up thing.

I can imagine that the exhaust system might suffer a little having moisture in it longer but------------The engine ?

The only bits in the engine that need to be hot are the pistons. They need to expand into the bores to reach their correct working sizes.

The rest of the engine plus the various bearings all around the car don't care too much if they are hot or cold.
As long as the metallic parts are being separated by a film of oil and there's no metal to metal contact all is OK.

The miracle of modern oils, hot or cold, keep the bits apart.

Think how the wheel bearings fare. Cold for a lot of the time. No oil flow.
And they quite often last the life of the car !!!!

The large proportion of cold start wear is in the first couple of seconds until the oil gets to where it needs to be.

Any gaps that are microscopically larger when cold are filled with slightly more viscous oil. The slight difference of oil that is almost visco static in use.
A lot of the moving parts in an engine are just splash fed. No oil flow required.
The oil flow through the big ends and crank bearings is more to remove heat than to pressure lubricate the bearings.

The lubrication is because the film of oil there is incompressible and holds the surfaces apart because of that.

The oil arrives at these plain bearings under pressure but that arrival pressure does not pass along the bearing surfaces with a gap of, maybe, one third of the thickness of one of the hairs on your head.
( if you have enough just pull one out and look at it. Lol. )

So in conclusion I think ( my opinion only ) that cold starts and then tick over for a while puts no more strain on the engine than driving straight off.

The initial couple of seconds wear is the same for both methods.

[Les4048]

I start my one with the spare key then insert the other key in the door lock and lock it, no problem and done it for years

[A19_Graham]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Noooooooooo!!! that's the devil's spawn

Brian

Exactly why I wish it could be turned off in the FL2, however (unlike the rover) it has the decency to unlock itself when the engine is turned off.

Same as single point entry

[grout20]

]
The initial couple of seconds wear is the same for both methods.


[/QUOTE]

Hi all

The comment above prompted a thought.... :-)

Does anyone still use Molyslip or, I think, SLICK50 it was called, which were oil additives supposed to keep a protective layer to include those first few seconds?

Happy Roving

John

[TomRS]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

Simon.--+

Personally I have a slightly different take on this engine warm-up thing.

I can imagine that the exhaust system might suffer a little having moisture in it longer but------------The engine ?

The only bits in the engine that need to be hot are the pistons. They need to expand into the bores to reach their correct working sizes.

The rest of the engine plus the various bearings all around the car don't care too much if they are hot or cold.
As long as the metallic parts are being separated by a film of oil and there's no metal to metal contact all is OK.

The miracle of modern oils, hot or cold, keep the bits apart.

Think how the wheel bearings fare. Cold for a lot of the time. No oil flow.
And they quite often last the life of the car !!!!

The large proportion of cold start wear in in the first couple of seconds until the oil gets to where it needs to be.

Any gaps that are microscopically larger when cold are filled with slightly more viscous oil. The slight difference of oil that is almost visco static in use.
A lot of the moving parts in an engine are just splash fed. No oil flow required.
The oil flow through the big ends and crank bearings is more to remove heat than to pressure lubricate the bearings.

The lubrication is because the film of oil there is incompressible and holds the surfaces apart because of that.

The oil arrives at these plain bearings under pressure but that arrival pressure does not pass along the bearing surfaces with a gap of, maybe, one third of the thickness of one of the hairs on your head.
( if you have enough just pull one out and look at it. Lol. )

So in conclusion I think ( my opinion only ) that cold starts and then tick over for a while puts no more strain on the engine than driving straight off.

The initial couple of seconds wear is the same for both methods.

I'm with Colvert on this one, my understanding is basically the same...

Modern oils especially fully synthetic's and Esther Synthetics are a marvel to the engine.
Using a lower "W" oil during winter is also favorable, for example MG reccommended 10/40... this grade is long since dead, a 5/40 is what i use in my KV6.
Otherwise i stick to the Manufacturers book, if it says 5/30 it gets the best grade 5/30.
Oil specs are also important, most VAG cars require certain specs for example VW 505.00 is the lower of the specs, it relates to wear protection additives (amongst others) within the oil.
507.00 is the current highest, i often use VW spec oil in other cars simple because for off the shelf oil (not online ordered Esther Synth from Opieoils) its the best quality easiest to get.
Some other oils are very expensive and you might think "well it must be good" but often the specs on the oil dont meet most known manufactuers, so always be careful picking oil.

Personally my KV6 get Gulf Racing esther syth 5/40 and this is perfect from cold/hot as the flow rate is roughly the same at cold as it is at temperature so as Colvert says engine wear is not increased so in my opinion anyway.... as long as there is no metal to metal contact thats all that matters mainly, hence why used/old oil is diluted with petrol/carbon it no longer provides a film accross the metal parts as it thins out.

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by TomRS

... 10/40... this grade is long since dead ...

No it isn't Tom. It's alive and kicking in motor factors and stores all over the country.

Simon

[klarzy]

Originally Posted by Les4048

I start my one with the spare key then insert the other key in the door lock and lock it, no problem and done it for years

can you lock it with the plipper?

[klarzy]

End of the day gents...

The screen defrosts and demists quicker.
The car feels warmer inside.
The engine reaches temp quicker and then burns better reducing emissions...


I don't see a bad side ....

FBH for me...

[grivas]

Originally Posted by Chris G

I'll give it a try in the morning if the worst that can happen is it just won't work.

Steering wheel lock might be easier.
Only to deter the opportunist really, can't imagine many 75's get nicked to order...

People will and do steal anything and everything, don't believe me?, just lay down in the middle of the street for a few minutes and you will be carried off by someone, I kid you not!