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17th December 2011, 21:00 | #21 |
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The FBH if the outside temp. is low enough doesn't shut down even when the coolant is fully warm it goes into idle mode
72C = part load operation, anything above 76.5 the control idle mode cuts in, if the temperature drops then drops below 71C it will resume part load operation if the coolant temperature drops further as a result of heavy demand from the vehicle heater the FBH will resume full operation at 56C. Shutdown proceedure after engine switched off: 175 seconds full load operation, 100 seconds part load. Hope this helps. Russ
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Replacement Key Service http://https://the75andztclub.co.uk/...d.php?t=244732 Full T4 Testbook diagnostics available. Diesel ECU repair and replacement. Options enabled or disabled as required. Diesel X-Power 135 and "160", Rover 1.8T 150 to 160 MG 160 V6 to 177 upgrades available P.M. for details. Last edited by BigRuss; 17th December 2011 at 21:05.. |
17th December 2011, 21:02 | #22 | |
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17th December 2011, 21:38 | #23 | |
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
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17th December 2011, 21:41 | #24 |
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will do not any harm to solder it back up tho if i pull the fuse will it .or just use bullet connectors?
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17th December 2011, 22:53 | #25 | ||
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After my journey tonight... When I started the car, it was at 33° C (still warm from my last journey). It took 6 minutes of driving to get from 33° C to 75° C - I pulled over for a little while and noticed that the FBH seemed a lot louder than usual. After a ~19 mile journey, the max temp attained was 84° C - it seemed to get to ~79° C quickly, then rise very slowly. Could this mean my FBH is working properly now? Will give it another test tomorow... |
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17th December 2011, 23:07 | #26 |
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Excellent thread Harry looking forward to recieving my pcb back from frenchmike.:xmas-smiley-004:
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18th December 2011, 01:14 | #27 | |
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As requested the How to is here. If you amend or add to your OP please let me know and I will update the How To accordingly. An excellent piece of work Harry Time is relative so this is the easiest way of doing it :xmas-smiley-004: BTW Reassemble reusing the paper gasket by pushing the split back together. http://techwebasto.com/heater_main/t...hop/63378A.pdf - This link is dead.....
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18th December 2011, 16:03 | #28 | |
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18th December 2011, 16:43 | #29 | |
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I would suggest that it is working. Maybe check to see if the FBH's flue is hot to be sure? Mine running is very obvious, I can actually see the needle on the temperature gauge rising as I drive.
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
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18th December 2011, 17:47 | #30 |
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Exhaust (flue?) is hot (or at least it was even before it was working properly!)
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