Metal thermostat housing KV6 - Page 21

Mintman · 15th April 2010, 17:17

To be sincere

The estates are belonging to us.(Tourer 132000kms MG 125000kms)

The saloons: Green : My mother 62000kms
Silver : My father in law 46000kms

Cheers Mintman

majedm75 · 16th April 2010, 17:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaiser

Blimey! An even bigger nut than myself! I have never in my life seen so many 75 together at one time, except once or twice at a dealer. Nice house too!!
Beautiful!!

Or at a club meet

Nice update from Guido and from Mintman. Thanks both

Mr Edd · 19th April 2010, 21:59

Just an update on my metal thermostat installation...

Mine was installed in mid october 2009. I had no problems with it until a few weeks ago. I checked it and found some coolant in the "V". Topped it up a couple of times so concluded that I had a leak.

I rank TS-Autos in Stourbridge and asked him to check it out for me. I suspected that the old MGR clips had failed on one of the pipes. This was confirmed when we got to it, the small pipe was leaking. Which was the initial problem I had and why I changed to the metal one. It looked like the hose was quite loose. Some staining but I think that was residual from the last leak.

Terry replaced all the clips with new Jubilee ones. about 2 weeks ago. Just checked again today and no coolant in the "V" in fact no dampness at all.

Moral of the story... Replace the clips at time of installation.

Hope this helps any others contemplating this mod.

Edd

Jules · 21st April 2010, 08:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mintman

@Jules

The 3 are : 1 at home the 2nd 200 meters away in a garage and the last 500 meters away also sheltered.So just a quick pick

@Guido

All three Rover's have your thermostats,the only one which hasn't one is my son's MG Zt-T 190.

As i'm not that mecanical trained,the thermostats were fitted by my local MG Rover garage, and i'm now judging by results and reliability.

And i'm convinced that during hot summerdays and heavy duty for the engine
there's will be NO overheating problems what so ever.

Cheers Mintman

A very nice collection there Mintman!
Fitting a housing today (and Cambelts!!)

This might be a silly question & may have been covered before by Kaiser but I can't find reference to it :

The new Metal Housings come with Stats marked 80 deg C but MGR manual states opening at 88 C
So has Guido changed the spec as we are a bit confused now?

Bernard LPG · 26th April 2010, 15:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bernard LPG

Coolant vac filled, but I cannot get anywhere near the engine temp. in the heater pipes, even without any heating demand, except when the engine is revving well, say 2500 and over.

There was another thread where the oil heat exchanger was blamed, presumably for restricting the flow. I don't know if this is on the same water circuit. It is certainly a rat's nest of pipes in this engine bay.

This oil heat exchanger did indeed prove to be the culprit in the heater circuit.
We cleared it just hours before setting off on our long way round to Spain.
We have since covered nearly 2000 miles in 11 days, the water level has held and the temperature has been steady at around 88-92 degrees (when I have looked at it). No more smell of anti-freeze when I get out of the car.

Mintman · 26th April 2010, 19:15

@ Jules

As i have specified earlier i'm not an expert in mechanics so that's a point for Guido.

Cheers Mintman

doggyboys · 14th May 2010, 08:49

update on metal thermostat.
a visit to Jules was required to resolve the issue.
appears it was nothing more than an ill fitting seal on the thermostat ?
perhaps Jules could elaborate more !
he replaced the complete unit, seals and fitted new clips.
loved the pressure testing,
a car pump, tyre valve, tube of sealent = "pure genius"
glad to report everything appears to be working has it should.
car is now up to temp and heater is blowing hot air.
I'm one very happy chappy.
a huge thanks to Jules & Kaiser for their help.

Jules · 14th May 2010, 22:57

Still not sure yet as to cause of cool running.
Suspect Stat insert but further tests pending.

As for pressure testing a system prior to filling with costly OAT Antifreeze !

Most of you will have the kit already :

Tyre pump Foot manual or Electric
Cork or short 15mm Pipe or Conical fitting
Schrader tyre valve (beg steal or borrow from your local tyre depot)

Procedure :
Disconnect the lower hose of the Header Tank.
Push Schrader into the rubber hose
Block off the lower outlet of the header tank.
No need to worry about over pressurising the system as the CAP will vent like a Relief Valve (14 PSI IIRC)
Pump up to say 10 PSI & listen for any hissing or wait 5 mins and gauge should not have dropped.
If gauge dropping, depressurise, & fill with Plain water.
Re-pressurise and trace the source of the leak (it should be obvious)
Put soap around the "test joints" just to make sure they are not leaking

scaevola · 8th October 2010, 22:28

I fitted Kaiser's metal thermostat housing and 2 pipes around 6 months ago, using a quick, non-standard method.
Kaiser's replacement housing has performed perfectly, and I am totally happy with it.
I suggest that Kaiser's parts are the only sensible replacement option for Rover 75 KV6 owners.
To use the OEM part is to ask for the same problem in a few years.
Mr Kaiser has created the part that should have been fitted originally.

The strength of Kaiser's part enables fitment by a non-standard method, which I used.
This method requires no removal of manifolds.

Briefly, Remove battery and air cleaner as per Haines or obvious method.
Remove breather pipes as per Haynes.
Remove throttle body complete by removal of 4 x Torx 27.
Very gently raise the body, and prise off cruise control white plastic ball and socket connector, if fitted.
Remove throttle cable from quadrant by usual obvious method if needed.
Tie back throttle body.
Remove lifting hook - 1 x 14mm and 1 x10mm bolts.

I used a 1/4" socket set, with 2 x 200mm (approx) extensions, terminating with a universal joint and socket. Pack socket joints with cloth to make them secure.
Torque the housing retaining bolt from above, working through the cast manifold.

Pre-assemble straight pipe into thermostat housing to its correct depth, and fully tighten travel limiting jubilee clip to prevent further ingress.
I used Permatex Aviation jointing compound on 'O' rings - aids insertion greatly.
Manoevre housing and pipe assembly into position; it is easier than it sounds.
A cut length of broomstick and a 20 inch screwdriver helps.
Do not foul the 2 leads from the knock sensors.

Insert LHS (far) end of long pipe first, leaving its jubilee clip just nipped.
Light horizontal tapping with rubber hammer and wood helps it home.
Wriggle and twist housing until the thermostat is directly above its hole in the block.
Use cut length of broomstick to tap it home from above, while viewing from RHS.
Housing went in first time for me, as did the bent pipe (later).
The use of jointing compound may be the reason for this, so it is recommended.

Use a strongly magnetised screwdriver to offer the 12mm fixing bolt to its hole.
Using extended socket set and universal joint, torque it down to seat housing home.
Remove 12 mm bolt.

Manoevre bent pipe into place, while leaving thermostat housing in situ.
Tap it home from above, using cut broomstick lengths, screwdriver and rubber hammer.
It was much easier to use the required force on a metal, rather than plastic component.
Re-offer 12mm bolt, rotating bent pipe slightly until both holes align and bolt drops down. Torque down moderately - a stripped thread would be a disaster!
The seal is made by the 'O' ring, not the torque on the bolt.

Tighten LHS travel limiting jubilee clip previously left nipped.
Refit throttle body, fit lower LHS Torx first.
Connect hoses, refit other removed parts, add coolant and check for leaks.
Once done, my reaction was: "Surely it couldn't have been so easy!"
Final step:
Open yet another Coopers Sparkling Ale.... Adelaide's gift to the World.

kaiser · 9th October 2010, 05:05

The way of fitting this thermostat housing sounds interesting. It would greatly reduce the labour costs and also mitigate any potential sealing problem(s) of the inlet manifold(s).
In order to better comprehend the procedure, it would be nice with some pictures.

On a general note, I think it is always satisfying when people report on installation and usage of these sets.

It really makes it worthwhile making these units, when they are appreciated.

15th April 2010, 17:17	#201
Mintman Avid contributor Rover 75 Tourer Conoisseur & MG ZT-T& MGF Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Bettemburg Posts: 149 Thanks: 2 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	To be sincere The estates are belonging to us.(Tourer 132000kms MG 125000kms) The saloons: Green : My mother 62000kms Silver : My father in law 46000kms Cheers Mintman __________________ http://www.r75.info

19th April 2010, 21:59	#203
Mr Edd From the Horses Mouth 2012 Honda Oddessay and 1996 Ford Ranger Truck (Splash) Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Fort Myers, Florida Posts: 1,045 Thanks: 0 Thanked 13 Times in 7 Posts	Just an update on my metal thermostat installation... Mine was installed in mid october 2009. I had no problems with it until a few weeks ago. I checked it and found some coolant in the "V". Topped it up a couple of times so concluded that I had a leak. I rank TS-Autos in Stourbridge and asked him to check it out for me. I suspected that the old MGR clips had failed on one of the pipes. This was confirmed when we got to it, the small pipe was leaking. Which was the initial problem I had and why I changed to the metal one. It looked like the hose was quite loose. Some staining but I think that was residual from the last leak. Terry replaced all the clips with new Jubilee ones. about 2 weeks ago. Just checked again today and no coolant in the "V" in fact no dampness at all. Moral of the story... Replace the clips at time of installation. Hope this helps any others contemplating this mod. Edd __________________ I'd be dyslexic if I could spell ti.

26th April 2010, 19:15	#206
Mintman Avid contributor Rover 75 Tourer Conoisseur & MG ZT-T& MGF Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Bettemburg Posts: 149 Thanks: 2 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	@ Jules As i have specified earlier i'm not an expert in mechanics so that's a point for Guido. Cheers Mintman __________________ http://www.r75.info

14th May 2010, 08:49	#207
doggyboys Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Merthyr Posts: 16 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	sorted update on metal thermostat. a visit to Jules was required to resolve the issue. appears it was nothing more than an ill fitting seal on the thermostat ? perhaps Jules could elaborate more ! he replaced the complete unit, seals and fitted new clips. loved the pressure testing, a car pump, tyre valve, tube of sealent = "pure genius" glad to report everything appears to be working has it should. car is now up to temp and heater is blowing hot air. I'm one very happy chappy. a huge thanks to Jules & Kaiser for their help.

14th May 2010, 22:57	#208
Jules This is my second home ZT 260 SE Twilight and 10 other 75 ZT's :O Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Conwy NORTH WALES Posts: 11,094 Thanks: 512 Thanked 1,116 Times in 763 Posts	How to pressure Test a 75 ZT Cooling system (Any engine variant) Still not sure yet as to cause of cool running. Suspect Stat insert but further tests pending. As for pressure testing a system prior to filling with costly OAT Antifreeze ! Most of you will have the kit already : Tyre pump Foot manual or Electric Cork or short 15mm Pipe or Conical fitting Schrader tyre valve (beg steal or borrow from your local tyre depot) Procedure : Disconnect the lower hose of the Header Tank. Push Schrader into the rubber hose Block off the lower outlet of the header tank. No need to worry about over pressurising the system as the CAP will vent like a Relief Valve (14 PSI IIRC) Pump up to say 10 PSI & listen for any hissing or wait 5 mins and gauge should not have dropped. If gauge dropping, depressurise, & fill with Plain water. Re-pressurise and trace the source of the leak (it should be obvious) Put soap around the "test joints" just to make sure they are not leaking __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Newbies do now!! 1. Plenum drains..all 3 or 4 year dependent 2. Cooling fan..All speeds functioning 3. Bonnet cable divider block

8th October 2010, 22:28	#209
scaevola Newbie Rover 75 KV6 2.5 petrol Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Adelaide, South Australia Posts: 8 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Kaiser's metal thermostat fitted in 2 hrs I fitted Kaiser's metal thermostat housing and 2 pipes around 6 months ago, using a quick, non-standard method. Kaiser's replacement housing has performed perfectly, and I am totally happy with it. I suggest that Kaiser's parts are the only sensible replacement option for Rover 75 KV6 owners. To use the OEM part is to ask for the same problem in a few years. Mr Kaiser has created the part that should have been fitted originally. The strength of Kaiser's part enables fitment by a non-standard method, which I used. This method requires no removal of manifolds. Briefly, Remove battery and air cleaner as per Haines or obvious method. Remove breather pipes as per Haynes. Remove throttle body complete by removal of 4 x Torx 27. Very gently raise the body, and prise off cruise control white plastic ball and socket connector, if fitted. Remove throttle cable from quadrant by usual obvious method if needed. Tie back throttle body. Remove lifting hook - 1 x 14mm and 1 x10mm bolts. I used a 1/4" socket set, with 2 x 200mm (approx) extensions, terminating with a universal joint and socket. Pack socket joints with cloth to make them secure. Torque the housing retaining bolt from above, working through the cast manifold. Pre-assemble straight pipe into thermostat housing to its correct depth, and fully tighten travel limiting jubilee clip to prevent further ingress. I used Permatex Aviation jointing compound on 'O' rings - aids insertion greatly. Manoevre housing and pipe assembly into position; it is easier than it sounds. A cut length of broomstick and a 20 inch screwdriver helps. Do not foul the 2 leads from the knock sensors. Insert LHS (far) end of long pipe first, leaving its jubilee clip just nipped. Light horizontal tapping with rubber hammer and wood helps it home. Wriggle and twist housing until the thermostat is directly above its hole in the block. Use cut length of broomstick to tap it home from above, while viewing from RHS. Housing went in first time for me, as did the bent pipe (later). The use of jointing compound may be the reason for this, so it is recommended. Use a strongly magnetised screwdriver to offer the 12mm fixing bolt to its hole. Using extended socket set and universal joint, torque it down to seat housing home. Remove 12 mm bolt. Manoevre bent pipe into place, while leaving thermostat housing in situ. Tap it home from above, using cut broomstick lengths, screwdriver and rubber hammer. It was much easier to use the required force on a metal, rather than plastic component. Re-offer 12mm bolt, rotating bent pipe slightly until both holes align and bolt drops down. Torque down moderately - a stripped thread would be a disaster! The seal is made by the 'O' ring, not the torque on the bolt. Tighten LHS travel limiting jubilee clip previously left nipped. Refit throttle body, fit lower LHS Torx first. Connect hoses, refit other removed parts, add coolant and check for leaks. Once done, my reaction was: "Surely it couldn't have been so easy!" Final step: Open yet another Coopers Sparkling Ale.... Adelaide's gift to the World. Last edited by scaevola; 22nd November 2010 at 08:05.. Reason: improved readability

9th October 2010, 05:05	#210
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	The way of fitting this thermostat housing sounds interesting. It would greatly reduce the labour costs and also mitigate any potential sealing problem(s) of the inlet manifold(s). In order to better comprehend the procedure, it would be nice with some pictures. On a general note, I think it is always satisfying when people report on installation and usage of these sets. It really makes it worthwhile making these units, when they are appreciated.