KV6 Belt Change

[Best_of_British]

Originally Posted by Salad-Dodger

Hi. I think you will need to find a crank holding tool to undo the crank pulley bolt on an auto. The other way would be to make a lock-up tool that would bolt up in place of the starter motor, though the flywheel is quite a way in through the starter aperture.
I made this tool before finding the proper tool. I just slid a tube over it to get the correct leverage. You can use this if you pay for the postage to you and back again. Steve

Thank you for the kind offer, I dont like the starter motor idea and would prefer to use a holding tool, PM sent.

I collected belts, waterpump, pulley and tensioner from DMGRS today, excellent service and im ready to start stripping down. The car is SORN so a slow methodical approach can be adopted. Ive read Beniet excellent thread, studied the correct procedure for installing the the tensioner and feel ready to give it a go and take some pictures along the way.

Im sure I willl be asking for more pointers soon

[StephenEssex]

Hi Steve - Please show us the belts when you get them off, as I am sure these are the original belts from 2001, and after 67k it would be great to see them and know what condition they are in.

[RogerHeinz57]

Best of luck with this without the proper tools for locking things in the correct position. Just heard about one that had been done incorrectly and plenty of damage caused by incorrect timing.

[Stag>75]

Originally Posted by Best_of_British

As far as I can fathom the only special tools required are the Flywheel locking pin which I intend to fabricate and the bracing tool for holding Crank Pulley while the bolt is cracked.

You need more than that. There are 3 belts, one at the front of the engine and two at the back. It does depend on the technique you use. If you get hold of the full correct toolkit (And there is a difference in the tools between the 75 and ZT) then you use that technique (Note this requires replacement of the exhaust camshaft end caps with new caps or seals - read up on the this)

Otherwise you need to fabricate some tools to:

1) Lock the rear inlet and exhaust sprockets together so you can undo the bolt(s) and retighten them. If you try to hold one end of the camshaft and then loosen or tighten the bolt at the other end then you are likely to crack the end of the camshaft. Several reports here of the crack becoming apparent a few days after reassembly requiring major engine repair or replacement.
2) Help line up those sprocket(s) onto the rears of the camshaft(s)
3) Lock/hold the front sprockets - You can do the job without taking those off but you still need to hold them to get tension.
4) A pin to hold the tensioner after compressing it in a vice - you need to protect the sprung end from damage while in the vice

BTW, there are two holes in the engine rear plate, the one you need differs between manual and auto.

Make sure you read up thorougly before doing anything. It's easy to make a mistake and get a tooth out. Using the original tools with the formal procedure will basically guarantee the outcome.

[beinet1]

This one might be helpful, but you may already have read it??: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=204919

[Best_of_British]

Originally Posted by StephenEssex

Hi Steve - Please show us the belts when you get them off, as I am sure these are the original belts from 2001, and after 67k it would be great to see them and know what condition they are in.

I will post some pictures up, from the limited inspection I have been able to do on them, the rears look like new but the front belt is showing signs of cracking. Will be interesting to see how they have aged on 14 years and approx 5K mile per year.

Originally Posted by Stag>75

You need more than that. There are 3 belts, one at the front of the engine and two at the back. It does depend on the technique you use. If you get hold of the full correct toolkit (And there is a difference in the tools between the 75 and ZT) then you use that technique (Note this requires replacement of the exhaust camshaft end caps with new caps or seals - read up on the this)

Otherwise you need to fabricate some tools to:

1) Lock the rear inlet and exhaust sprockets together so you can undo the bolt(s) and retighten them. If you try to hold one end of the camshaft and then loosen or tighten the bolt at the other end then you are likely to crack the end of the camshaft. Several reports here of the crack becoming apparent a few days after reassembly requiring major engine repair or replacement.
2) Help line up those sprocket(s) onto the rears of the camshaft(s)
3) Lock/hold the front sprockets - You can do the job without taking those off but you still need to hold them to get tension.
4) A pin to hold the tensioner after compressing it in a vice - you need to protect the sprung end from damage while in the vice

BTW, there are two holes in the engine rear plate, the one you need differs between manual and auto.

Make sure you read up thorougly before doing anything. It's easy to make a mistake and get a tooth out. Using the original tools with the formal procedure will basically guarantee the outcome.

Thanks for these points, I have done a bit of research and your points are valid, I intend to use a generic sprocket holding tool, a tapered punch to guide the sprockets on and a 1.5mm drill piece for the plunger.

As the belts are original and the car has not been messed with, I can only assume the timming is as it left factory. I intend to leave the front sprockets well alone.

Originally Posted by beinet1

This one might be helpful, but you may already have read it??: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=204919

Thank you I have read this several times already and find the quality pictures invaluable . Unfortunatly I lack your tool making skills, the crank holder is something to behold . When you did yours which bolts did you replace with new, I am assuming the 2 rear pulley bolts that are removed but what about the idler pulley bolt?

[Best_of_British]

Originally Posted by John H

Best of luck with this without the proper tools for locking things in the correct position. Just heard about one that had been done incorrectly and plenty of damage caused by incorrect timing.

This is the risk, but life would be boring without risk. At he end of the day my brother will lose his purchase price and the cost of the belt kit. I hope this does not happen and the plan is to give the car a new lease of life for several years but the harsh reality is its worth equal money as scrap as he stands to lose. I would not be gambling if the purchase massively out weighed what can be recouped in breaking. We learn from mistakes and hopefully if this does go belly up it wont be to expensive and I will learn from it.

[beinet1]

Originally Posted by Best_of_British

I will post some pictures up, from the limited inspection I have been able to do on them, the rears look like new but the front belt is showing signs of cracking. Will be interesting to see how they have aged on 14 years and approx 5K mile per year.



Thanks for these points, I have done a bit of research and your points are valid, I intend to use a generic sprocket holding tool, a tapered punch to guide the sprockets on and a 1.5mm drill piece for the plunger.

As the belts are original and the car has not been messed with, I can only assume the timming is as it left factory. I intend to leave the front sprockets well alone.



Thank you I have read this several times already and find the quality pictures invaluable . Unfortunatly I lack your tool making skills, the crank holder is something to behold . When you did yours which bolts did you replace with new, I am assuming the 2 rear pulley bolts that are removed but what about the idler pulley bolt?

No need to replace the idler pulley bolt, only the camshaft sprocket bolts which needs to be removed (according to the haynes manual)

Good luck with your job

[beinet1]

Originally Posted by Best_of_British

This is the risk, but life would be boring without risk. At he end of the day my brother will lose his purchase price and the cost of the belt kit. I hope this does not happen and the plan is to give the car a new lease of life for several years but the harsh reality is its worth equal money as scrap as he stands to lose. I would not be gambling if the purchase massively out weighed what can be recouped in breaking. We learn from mistakes and hopefully if this does go belly up it wont be to expensive and I will learn from it.

There is no problem replacing the belt without the special tools. The key is to make good alignment marks and NOT release the sprockets which are not keyed to their camshaft. This applies to the front inlet pulleys and rear exhaust inlets.
Tripple checking alignment after replacement is important. You will see very clearly if you are one tooth out of alignment.

[mh007]

Wether to use the correct tools or not has been discussed so many times I've lost count !
I personally prefer to use the setting/locking tools on the KV6.
I've had more than a few in that have had previous belt changes & evidence of good old tippex to mark up the sprocket positions.
As a matter of interest, I've used these previous marks as reference & surprisingly, by the time the new belt (front) is fitted, using the correct tools, the previous marks don't line up !
I'm only talking about a small amount but nonetheless, they're out.
As said, this is not just a one off occurrence.

With regards to the tools being different between the R75 & ZT, it is just the 190 that requires the different adapters for the sprockets.