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24th October 2012, 17:33 | #11 |
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I remember that when i refitted the driveshafts after replacing my clutch the passenger side was a little awkward to fit into the gearbox,
as it felt it was not fully in place. When it does push fully in you can hear a firm click. If the spring clip is missing from the spline end the driveshaft will fall out at some point......Normally when on full lock. Hope it's a cheap fix .
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24th October 2012, 17:47 | #12 |
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Driving slowly at full lock must put more outward thrust on the drive shaft than you yourself would use to pull them out of the diff with the hub off. The idea that a flimsy wire ring stops shaft detachment simply doesn't gel for me. I know lots of these clips are omitted after a shaft service because they're so difficult to replace, especially when the hub/strut are still attached (the garage way).
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24th October 2012, 18:29 | #13 | |
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Probably find something like the engine mounts are moving and increasing the engine distance from the suspension. The circlip does virtually nowt. Colvert. |
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24th October 2012, 18:40 | #14 |
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The drive shaft spring clip is not fitted to take any thrust loading, it is only to limit lateral movement of the shaft.
When the steering is on full lock the drive shaft still has an amount of lateral free travel and a spring clip at each end of the drive shaft limits this. This means that the torque load is applied equally at both ends of the spline drive shaft.
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24th October 2012, 18:58 | #15 |
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I cannot see how turning forces when going around a corner would be transferred to the gearbox end of the shaft. The CV joint swivels around the centre point of what would be a king pin thus the shaft would not be extended just by turning forces. There is weight transfer with the outer suspension spring being compressed which will tend to straighten the shaft in relation to the gearbox, resulting in the drive shaft shortening. Conversely the inboard suspension would extend resulting in the drive shaft slightly extending. The amount of extension/contraction of the shafts is small compared with the total amount of extension/contraction built into the shaft. I can only see a defective retaining clip being the culprit with constant up and down suspension movement allowing the splines in the diff to travel.
All the drive shafts I have removed require a lever such as a very large screwdriver to release the driveshaft from the diff as the circlip must be compressed before the driveshaft will pop out. Last edited by rover54; 24th October 2012 at 19:03.. |
24th October 2012, 19:22 | #16 | |
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Last edited by rovexCDTi; 24th October 2012 at 20:02.. |
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24th October 2012, 19:59 | #17 |
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Update took shaft out clip was there put it back in and heard it click tried a pry bar was in solid so if it pops out again I will worry then. Looking at the other night I was tired and prob rushed putting that one in I don't remember hearing it click in so time will tell. All engine mounts are good as well as suspention
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25th October 2012, 00:04 | #18 | |
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25th October 2012, 06:33 | #19 |
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I need to update my profile my one in the picture was wrote of and put as a cat b that's been stripped and waiting to be scrapped my.New one is a 2001 CDT tourer that's a manual in dansom red
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http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...y%20se/sig.jpg spoilt as i own a cdt auto connoisseur se cdt auto member 829 mods so far synergy 2 heated washer jets cant really add anything else as it has it all lol
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25th October 2012, 09:37 | #20 |
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Was it your old car that had the HP pump front seal go as well Craig?
Mike |
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