2nd Hand Manifold or New one? - Page 2

rover54 · 12th June 2012, 19:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by stocktake

Excellent Idea Ed, i have seen 1st hand the problems of opening these. when cutting inside the original is the replacement plate flat of did it have to be shaped to a profile?

No just cut through the flat bit, more than enough room to get your hands in. 10min job, once done, great for washing out chamber.

rover54 · 12th June 2012, 19:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canonite

How thick is the plastic moulding then of the manifold itself, looks fairly chunky. Don't the self tappers effectively weaken it at the point of entry.
The few threads I read about removing the panel on the belly of it look fairly straight forward though there was no mention of the excessive force used. Obviously, when prying and levering something up there's the risk of damaging the opposite side you're getting the leverage from.

I think it the access panel was between 3mm and 4mm. Self tapping screws wouldn't split the plastic as you will have already drilled pilot holes in the remaining part of the access panel. The silicone really hold it in place, the screws are there just to stop it working loose through engine vibration and to hold it in place whilst the silicone dries.

Canonite · 12th June 2012, 19:29

I'll see how much the scrappy want's for that one. At least I know that one is solid, it's on a gold car too, so it's probably never seen over 3000rpm

lovema75 · 13th June 2012, 01:29

Having opened up mine and been plagued with air leaks ever since, I would just bite the bullet and replace it rather than try and repair.

I have given up and replaced it - the car now runs like a dream.

Arctic · 14th June 2012, 22:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by rover54

If you want to gain access to the innards I would not suggest trying to open it up through the orginial access panel. In addition to the screws, the unit is ultra-sonically welded together. When I took one apart I cut it within the access panel, around 3/4" inside the central panel, just use a dremel. You can then close the opening with a metal plate, 2mm plus, good silicone and self tapping screws.

Hi Ed any photo's of this opening and closing please

Gazmo65 · 15th June 2012, 07:31

I opened mine up and removed the insides to no detrimental effect, sealed it using STIXALL this is excellent stuff ,I had one air leak to begin with but that was because I was in a hurry if I was to do it again I would only cut out a smaller section and replace with a metal sheet and seal it leaving it to dry overnight

Lates · 15th June 2012, 10:12

New one from my for sale ad

12th June 2012, 19:29	#13
Canonite This is my second home BMW 330d Tourer, MG ZT 180 SE XPG, VW Polo 6R 1.2 TDI Bluemotion Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: York Posts: 6,030 Thanks: 363 Thanked 574 Times in 319 Posts	I'll see how much the scrappy want's for that one. At least I know that one is solid, it's on a gold car too, so it's probably never seen over 3000rpm

13th June 2012, 01:29	#14
lovema75 This is my second home 75 Tourer CDT Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Enfield Posts: 3,925 Thanks: 63 Thanked 431 Times in 237 Posts	Having opened up mine and been plagued with air leaks ever since, I would just bite the bullet and replace it rather than try and repair. I have given up and replaced it - the car now runs like a dream.

15th June 2012, 07:31	#16
Gazmo65 Loves to post Volvo S80 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Burton Latimer Posts: 268 Thanks: 11 Thanked 39 Times in 20 Posts	I opened mine up and removed the insides to no detrimental effect, sealed it using STIXALL this is excellent stuff ,I had one air leak to begin with but that was because I was in a hurry if I was to do it again I would only cut out a smaller section and replace with a metal sheet and seal it leaving it to dry overnight

15th June 2012, 10:12	#17
Lates This is my second home Jaguar XE Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Coventry Posts: 4,321 Thanks: 56 Thanked 59 Times in 55 Posts	New one from my for sale ad