Structural engineers in here ? - Page 2

James.uk · 22nd February 2009, 23:58

Is there a floor in the loft? if so, that will make fitting the skylight a lot easier.

If you use a suspended ceiling, make sure the tiles are damp proof and clip them down as you go, dont want the wind blowing them out do we,

.

48rov06 · 23rd February 2009, 00:12

Hi usually the roof rafters are resting on a purling joist this carries the weight down . IF its only a box room the span will not be that great.You may have to put extra trimming joists in. When you go into loft measure size of timbers,and span of rafters. Regards Alan

Sancho · 23rd February 2009, 19:05

We need to see pictures of the roof trusses before being able to give any decent advice. You can almost certainly take out the ceiling joists, but it is possible that they are ties that are required to stop your trusses from spreading and should be left alone.

The advice to put the the skylight in first is good. You can always pull the ceiling out and leave the trusses as they are for that 'exposed beam' look, but the wood won't be much to look at.

Bear in mind how much heat you're going to be losing into that roof space too. You will need to create a new, sloped ceiling up against the roof if you don't want a freezing cold box room.

I'd recommend getting a trusted local builder to have a look and quote for it. Understandably, they're keen for work at the moment and should do you a decent price.

Lates · 23rd February 2009, 19:26

thanks for all the heads up gents. I have taken a a few pics without going into the eaves, it appears the rafters tie in to the roof bits but I didnt fancy the itches all night to find out....

This one shows the larger pearling with rafter nailed from underside.

48rov06 · 23rd February 2009, 20:23

Hi Lates . Looks like no problem I would fit sky light just above purlin.Use an insulation like Kingspan this comes in sheet form will fit between rafters and allow air to pass over top to vent roof . Common mistake they usually stuff it with fibreglass not letting it breath. It all depends on width of room about tying to wall after removing ceiling rafters . You could stiffen up tie left to next room and fit a small trimmer across wall to front .Give us a sketch of layout and rough sizes and i will look at it for you regards Alan

Sancho · 23rd February 2009, 20:37

Ok, that's a pretty old school roof

The rafters (diagonal bits) will be sitting on top of wall plates that take the load and transfer it down through the wall. The purlins (big horizontal bits running lengthways about half way up) are there to take some of the weight of the roof and transfer it into the gable walls to stop it from sagging in the middle.

The ceiling joists are mainly there to hold the ceiling up, but they are also serving as ties and your roof would be at risk of spreading if you removed them.

It's probably the easiest type of roof to do it to, but you would need to tie the rafters if you removed the ceiling joists. They could probably be tied back to the existing purlins.

Lates · 23rd February 2009, 20:40

Cheers Alan,Sancho stars you are. Ploughing through emails again tonight. The next time I get up there fully anti itched up I will measure up and take a closer look at the connecting joints etc.

Appears my terminology was not quite right. The ceiling joists I have been calling rafters, doh !

Greeners · 23rd February 2009, 20:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lates

Cheers Alan,Sancho stars you are. Ploughing through emails again tonight. The next time I get up there fully anti itched up I will measure up and take a closer look at the connecting joints etc.

Appears my terminology was not quite right. The ceiling joists I have been calling rafters, doh !

Never mind all that....you need some proper insulation in there to ofset the fuel you use in the 190

Lates · 23rd February 2009, 20:57

Evening Mr D, there was me thinking a sensible answer would ensue

Wafting round in the Jag diesel all last week saved me a couple of quid so I the choices are, more ZTT fun fuel or loft insulation hmmm.... tough call that one

Greeners · 23rd February 2009, 20:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lates

Evening Mr D, there was me thinking a sensible answer would ensue

You should know better then that...are you well rested now.....?

how's the plastic one ......?

22nd February 2009, 23:58	#11
James.uk Passed Away 2002 Pale Blue. Rover 75 CDTi Connoisseur auto. 170K miles Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Near the M67. Posts: 14,509 Thanks: 199 Thanked 585 Times in 397 Posts	Is there a floor in the loft? if so, that will make fitting the skylight a lot easier. If you use a suspended ceiling, make sure the tiles are damp proof and clip them down as you go, dont want the wind blowing them out do we, .

23rd February 2009, 00:12	#12
48rov06 Loves to post 75 connoisseur se cdti tourer 2006 tempest grey Join Date: May 2008 Location: cardiff Posts: 260 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Hi usually the roof rafters are resting on a purling joist this carries the weight down . IF its only a box room the span will not be that great.You may have to put extra trimming joists in. When you go into loft measure size of timbers,and span of rafters. Regards Alan

23rd February 2009, 19:05	#13
Sancho Loves to post Mercedes 220SE Coupe, Mitsubishi Delica, Nissan Micra Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: London Posts: 358 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	We need to see pictures of the roof trusses before being able to give any decent advice. You can almost certainly take out the ceiling joists, but it is possible that they are ties that are required to stop your trusses from spreading and should be left alone. The advice to put the the skylight in first is good. You can always pull the ceiling out and leave the trusses as they are for that 'exposed beam' look, but the wood won't be much to look at. Bear in mind how much heat you're going to be losing into that roof space too. You will need to create a new, sloped ceiling up against the roof if you don't want a freezing cold box room. I'd recommend getting a trusted local builder to have a look and quote for it. Understandably, they're keen for work at the moment and should do you a decent price.

23rd February 2009, 19:26	#14
Lates This is my second home Jaguar XE Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Coventry Posts: 4,321 Thanks: 56 Thanked 59 Times in 55 Posts	thanks for all the heads up gents. I have taken a a few pics without going into the eaves, it appears the rafters tie in to the roof bits but I didnt fancy the itches all night to find out.... This one shows the larger pearling with rafter nailed from underside.

23rd February 2009, 20:23	#15
48rov06 Loves to post 75 connoisseur se cdti tourer 2006 tempest grey Join Date: May 2008 Location: cardiff Posts: 260 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Hi Lates . Looks like no problem I would fit sky light just above purlin.Use an insulation like Kingspan this comes in sheet form will fit between rafters and allow air to pass over top to vent roof . Common mistake they usually stuff it with fibreglass not letting it breath. It all depends on width of room about tying to wall after removing ceiling rafters . You could stiffen up tie left to next room and fit a small trimmer across wall to front .Give us a sketch of layout and rough sizes and i will look at it for you regards Alan

23rd February 2009, 20:37	#16
Sancho Loves to post Mercedes 220SE Coupe, Mitsubishi Delica, Nissan Micra Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: London Posts: 358 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Ok, that's a pretty old school roof The rafters (diagonal bits) will be sitting on top of wall plates that take the load and transfer it down through the wall. The purlins (big horizontal bits running lengthways about half way up) are there to take some of the weight of the roof and transfer it into the gable walls to stop it from sagging in the middle. The ceiling joists are mainly there to hold the ceiling up, but they are also serving as ties and your roof would be at risk of spreading if you removed them. It's probably the easiest type of roof to do it to, but you would need to tie the rafters if you removed the ceiling joists. They could probably be tied back to the existing purlins.

23rd February 2009, 20:40	#17
Lates This is my second home Jaguar XE Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Coventry Posts: 4,321 Thanks: 56 Thanked 59 Times in 55 Posts	Cheers Alan,Sancho stars you are. Ploughing through emails again tonight. The next time I get up there fully anti itched up I will measure up and take a closer look at the connecting joints etc. Appears my terminology was not quite right. The ceiling joists I have been calling rafters, doh !

23rd February 2009, 20:57	#19
Lates This is my second home Jaguar XE Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Coventry Posts: 4,321 Thanks: 56 Thanked 59 Times in 55 Posts	Evening Mr D, there was me thinking a sensible answer would ensue Wafting round in the Jag diesel all last week saved me a couple of quid so I the choices are, more ZTT fun fuel or loft insulation hmmm.... tough call that one