How do you get a pin in a plug?

[Departed]

Originally Posted by Simon

Did anyone else notice quite a bit of damp inside the door when you take the cards/lining out? Haven't done passenger side yet but the drivers door feels quite damp, obviously due to water ingress via window seals etc.

On my passenger door, yes.

One of the fixings for the mirror (the top one, screw I think) was missing, so water was getting behind the mirror.

Behind (outside) the grey plastic foam sheet, expect it to be damp. That sheet seals the wet side of the door from the dry side. If it's damp on the 'inside' then check your mirrors, and for tears etc in the sheet.

[Simon]

Scotch-locks did quite well for the connectors at the mirror-end. I know it's a permanent fixing I've given myself plenty of extra cable 'just in case'.

Whilst we're on the subject: The circuit in the mirror switch pack itself is fully populated from what I can tell - complete with the contacts on the PCB for the powerfold button. Is it a big assumption to assume the PCB will have the logic already onboard to control mirror operation if the contact on the PCB is 'operated'. If this is the case then assuming I can find a non-latching button/relay (you can see where this is going....) the PCB will be able to operate the mirrors correctly.

I then just need a source of momentary latching upon door unlock/lock. (or even ignition aux/IGN position if the first idea fails).

[Departed]

Originally Posted by Simon

Scotch-locks did quite well for the connectors at the mirror-end. I know it's a permanent fixing I've given myself plenty of extra cable 'just in case'.

AAARGH.

known in the trade as bodgelocks.

Sorry, but in my opinion the most hateful thing, ever.

Might be OK in a fixed installation, but with vibration from a moving car, they are just plain horrible.

[Greeners]

Originally Posted by Simon

Scotch-locks did quite well for the connectors at the mirror-end. I know it's a permanent fixing I've given myself plenty of extra cable 'just in case'.

Whilst we're on the subject: The circuit in the mirror switch pack itself is fully populated from what I can tell - complete with the contacts on the PCB for the powerfold button. Is it a big assumption to assume the PCB will have the logic already onboard to control mirror operation if the contact on the PCB is 'operated'. If this is the case then assuming I can find a non-latching button/relay (you can see where this is going....) the PCB will be able to operate the mirrors correctly.

I then just need a source of momentary latching upon door unlock/lock. (or even ignition aux/IGN position if the first idea fails).

When I did Les's Powerfolds I had a look at the switch, and I'm 99.9% certain that the pcb is the same for both switch packs. The give away is the contact where the switch would go, and the pins are in place for the connector to.