|
||
|
||
|
![]() |
#11 |
Avid contributor
MK2 MG ZTT+ CDTi & MK2 Rover 75 Classic CDT Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Manchester
Posts: 175
Thanks: 6
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
|
![]() I know fulledge well, mainly for the Fair and going up to Towneley.
I've always just taken the cap off the fluid res and then used a G-clamp to push the piston back, I think this the way most people do it. Never touched the bleed nipples during a pad change, If you are going to undo the nipples try to give them a bit of a pre-soak with penetrating oil as they can seize and shear very easily.
__________________
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
This is my second home
Rover75 and Mreg Corsa. Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sumweer onat mote o'dust (Sagin)
Posts: 21,754
Thanks: 341
Thanked 3,660 Times in 2,924 Posts
|
![]() Brake bleed nipples deserve servicing. You need them operational to renew the brake fluid whether or not you use MGR or Haynes method of pad replacement.
When you do the fluid service (30K miles/2 years), I'd suggest removing the nipples and wind some Teflon tape on the threads to help prevent seizure. Seized/snapped nipples can prove frustrating and expensive to fix. TC |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
Avid contributor
MK2 MG ZTT+ CDTi & MK2 Rover 75 Classic CDT Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Manchester
Posts: 175
Thanks: 6
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
|
![]() I know all about the frustration of a snapped bleed nipple, I sheared one a few weeks ago changing the fluid.
Try as I might, extractors, etc no way was it coming out clean so i bought a pair of calipers off Flea Bay, and set of new nipples all round. I Agree though they are not something you want to seize up on you.
__________________
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
This is my second home
N/A Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 6,867
Thanks: 0
Thanked 397 Times in 302 Posts
|
![]() I also found that one of mine was very very soft and I very nearly rounded it off removing it...
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|