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28th July 2015, 22:23 | #11 |
Gets stuck in
Rover 75 Tourer & Arden Green Project Join Date: Jul 2012
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Thank you for the kind offer, I dont like the starter motor idea and would prefer to use a holding tool, PM sent. I collected belts, waterpump, pulley and tensioner from DMGRS today, excellent service and im ready to start stripping down. The car is SORN so a slow methodical approach can be adopted. Ive read Beniet excellent thread, studied the correct procedure for installing the the tensioner and feel ready to give it a go and take some pictures along the way. Im sure I willl be asking for more pointers soon |
28th July 2015, 22:52 | #12 |
Loves to post
2000 Rover 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur Join Date: Jul 2014
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Hi Steve - Please show us the belts when you get them off, as I am sure these are the original belts from 2001, and after 67k it would be great to see them and know what condition they are in.
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28th July 2015, 23:27 | #13 |
I really should get out more.......
A Reasonably Priced Car Join Date: Jan 2014
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Best of luck with this without the proper tools for locking things in the correct position. Just heard about one that had been done incorrectly and plenty of damage caused by incorrect timing.
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29th July 2015, 00:26 | #14 | |
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Rover 75 Saloon 2.5 Join Date: Jul 2012
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Otherwise you need to fabricate some tools to: 1) Lock the rear inlet and exhaust sprockets together so you can undo the bolt(s) and retighten them. If you try to hold one end of the camshaft and then loosen or tighten the bolt at the other end then you are likely to crack the end of the camshaft. Several reports here of the crack becoming apparent a few days after reassembly requiring major engine repair or replacement. 2) Help line up those sprocket(s) onto the rears of the camshaft(s) 3) Lock/hold the front sprockets - You can do the job without taking those off but you still need to hold them to get tension. 4) A pin to hold the tensioner after compressing it in a vice - you need to protect the sprung end from damage while in the vice BTW, there are two holes in the engine rear plate, the one you need differs between manual and auto. Make sure you read up thorougly before doing anything. It's easy to make a mistake and get a tooth out. Using the original tools with the formal procedure will basically guarantee the outcome. |
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29th July 2015, 04:50 | #15 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 2.0 V6 Auto Join Date: May 2011
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This one might be helpful, but you may already have read it??: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=204919
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29th July 2015, 08:03 | #16 | |||
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As the belts are original and the car has not been messed with, I can only assume the timming is as it left factory. I intend to leave the front sprockets well alone. Quote:
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29th July 2015, 08:14 | #17 |
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This is the risk, but life would be boring without risk. At he end of the day my brother will lose his purchase price and the cost of the belt kit. I hope this does not happen and the plan is to give the car a new lease of life for several years but the harsh reality is its worth equal money as scrap as he stands to lose. I would not be gambling if the purchase massively out weighed what can be recouped in breaking. We learn from mistakes and hopefully if this does go belly up it wont be to expensive and I will learn from it.
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29th July 2015, 08:16 | #18 | |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 2.0 V6 Auto Join Date: May 2011
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Good luck with your job |
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29th July 2015, 08:20 | #19 | |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 2.0 V6 Auto Join Date: May 2011
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Tripple checking alignment after replacement is important. You will see very clearly if you are one tooth out of alignment. |
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29th July 2015, 10:51 | #20 |
This is my second home
MG ZT260 SE, MG ZT190+, MG ZTT 160, R75 Conn SE 2.0, R75 Conn SE 2.5 X 3, R75 Club SE 1.8, P5B Coupe Join Date: Jul 2009
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Wether to use the correct tools or not has been discussed so many times I've lost count !
I personally prefer to use the setting/locking tools on the KV6. I've had more than a few in that have had previous belt changes & evidence of good old tippex to mark up the sprocket positions. As a matter of interest, I've used these previous marks as reference & surprisingly, by the time the new belt (front) is fitted, using the correct tools, the previous marks don't line up ! I'm only talking about a small amount but nonetheless, they're out. As said, this is not just a one off occurrence. With regards to the tools being different between the R75 & ZT, it is just the 190 that requires the different adapters for the sprockets. |
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