Compensator removal

[bl52krz]

When adjusting the handbrake, the handbrake cables should be slackened off at the nut under the handbrake, and then both rear wheels should be removed, after putting support under the body of the car, and the knurled adjuster which is found at the top of the handbrake shoes inside,you will need a small torch to look through one of the stud holes into the handbrake drum to find it, has to be turned up or down to move the brake shoes nearer (tighten) or (loosen) the brake shoes onto the drum. When this job has been done, you can then adjust the hand brake lever to take the slack up in the cables. Usually 2/3 clicks on the hand brake will then operate the handbrake successfully.

[Dragrad]

Thread moved to appropriate forum. Re-direct left in old.

[SK51TTT]

I feel inclined to remove the caliper, take off the disc/drum, and inspect the shoes and associated parts, rather than making an adjustment through a stud hole.
I say this because I don't know, without looking, the condition of the componants, having only just had the car.
Things like
wear of lining material
hold down springs
shoe springs
shoe activating lever
adjuster pawl
Non of these can be checked effectively without drum removal. If the jobs worth doing, etc etc etc

[pab]

Originally Posted by SK51TTT

I feel inclined to remove the caliper, take off the disc/drum, and inspect the shoes and associated parts.
I say this because I don't know, without looking, the condition of the componants, having only just had the car.
Things like
wear of lining material
hold down springs
shoe springs
shoe activating lever
adjuster pawl
Non of these can be checked effectively without drum removal

I suppose this is a good idea if you have the time. Rust build up has a big effect on how the shoes are finally balanced and adjusted.

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by SK51TTT

I feel inclined to remove the caliper, take off the disc/drum, and inspect the shoes and associated parts, rather than making an adjustment through a stud hole.
I say this because I don't know, without looking, the condition of the componants, having only just had the car.
Things like
wear of lining material
hold down springs
shoe springs
shoe activating lever
adjuster pawl
Non of these can be checked effectively without drum removal. If the jobs worth doing, etc etc etc

That is exactly what I did, when I first got the car and realised just how bad the handbrake was, despite its fresh MOT.

Everything was in perfect order apart from a bit of surface rust in the drum and there was no wear on the shoes, so I just cleaned things up and lubricated where necessary, temporarily fitting a spacer under the adjuster nut That resulted in a perfect handbrake, so it was left like that until we discovered the problem was due to the now well known stretch of the compensator.

Having worked out how to modify them, I then fitted a modified one which has been great until quite recently, when I decided it was time it was readjusted.

[SK51TTT]

That's right Harry, I've always been aware of rear shoe problems ever since my Marina and Princess days when the set up was very similar to the present day Rover type, although as you know, the rear drum controlled both braking & handbrake.
It was standard procedure to heat up and free both the adjuster wheel and the lever to which the handbrake cable was attached, followed by a little copper slipping.
What was the temporary shim for?

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by SK51TTT

That's right Harry, I've always been aware of rear shoe problems ever since my Marina and Princess days when the set up was very similar to the present day Rover type, although as you know, the rear drum controlled both braking & handbrake.
It was standard procedure to heat up and free both the adjuster wheel and the lever to which the handbrake cable was attached, followed by a little copper slipping.
What was the temporary shim for?

It was to enable the slack to be taken up under the adjuster nut, before it was found that the compensator was the cause of all of the handbrake issues.

Someone on the forum spent a fortunes on brake cables, making an assumption that the cables had stretched, then found they made no difference. Then they bought a new compensator and compared it to the old one, noticing the difference and pointed it out on the forum. That then set me going trying to find a solution to the stretching compensator.

The reshaping and welding is the result.