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Old 29th October 2012, 07:24   #11
Chris K
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiltman View Post
I did mine at the block end, not too tricky but careful with the Dremel, nearly cut through my hose!
had a go Sunday unsuccessfully

bought dremel-a-likey with tools

made a lot of sparks and smell of burning rubber but didn't cut thru the clip

first 2 cutting discs broke before I even started the motor

tried pointy grinding tools but they wore thru within 10 seconds

didn't like the smell of rubber in case it knackered the hose just from heat so I quit

actual drill seems OK so I ordered some diamond discs but anyone managed to get the clip off any other way?
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Old 29th October 2012, 08:51   #12
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Took the blade out of a junior hacksaw, spent 5-10 mins slow sawing, then finished off with small pincers. used plenty of washing-up liquid to slide the thermo in - took about 1 hour total including coffee's etc.
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Old 29th October 2012, 09:16   #13
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I'm assuming its got to be easiest to remove the hose at the radiator end (thats my plan any way), in which case the copper sensor goes in first right???
In theory, yes, but I think it wiser to place the stat near the head end of the hose. The hose in question drops down to the radiator which will increase the temperature gradient end to end. A stat in the radiator end will only open when the coolant at that end of the hose is hot enough. I suspect the head end will be considerably hotter and possibly too hot. The thermal flow in the hose is mainly conductive and convective because there's no significant turbulence to cause mixing.

One the other hand, diesels could do with some temperature boosting. For the price of a smaller stat body (about 32-33mm I believe), it would be a useful experiment to try. You could compare the running temperature with all the other head end modifications.

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Old 30th October 2012, 07:33   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cargocar View Post
Took the blade out of a junior hacksaw, spent 5-10 mins slow sawing, then finished off with small pincers. used plenty of washing-up liquid to slide the thermo in - took about 1 hour total including coffee's etc.
sounds like a plan - I got loads time on Sunday - cheers
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Old 30th October 2012, 13:42   #15
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I fitted the in-line stat at the head end, bleed the system cols at the FBH tap, but have been doing small egg-cup size water top-ups. The stat does not have a small hole for water passage, so this could cause an air-lock at the head top. For bleeding air from the system, it maybe best to have the engine warm enough to open the stat (wether there's a small hole or not) so there's a free passage for the air to escape from the head/stat.
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Old 6th September 2014, 11:48   #16
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I had the inline 'stat put in a few weeks ago, and it works spot on.Very quickly up to working temp. Thanks to the people on this forum for their sound advice
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Old 6th September 2014, 11:57   #17
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It's a great little mod, and much less of a headache than replacing the original item.
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Old 6th September 2014, 15:50   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris K View Post
had a go Sunday unsuccessfully

bought dremel-a-likey with tools

made a lot of sparks and smell of burning rubber but didn't cut thru the clip

first 2 cutting discs broke before I even started the motor

tried pointy grinding tools but they wore thru within 10 seconds

didn't like the smell of rubber in case it knackered the hose just from heat so I quit

actual drill seems OK so I ordered some diamond discs but anyone managed to get the clip off any other way?
buy yourself a three sided file,it only takes a few minutes to file through the band and does not cause so much damage to hose.when its off get a drop off washing up liquid rub round inside hose, engine block end,put stat in with bubble facing block,get the gadget pipe out of the hoover put it over bubble end set the plastic pipe on floor and gently force the stat down the hose,when it is in you will need a jubilee clip round the shoulder of the stat and one at each end of the hose.job done then top up correct coolant.
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