Our 1.8T running temps

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by ceedy

Cap on and then start and run the motor .

Chris, that's not the approved MGR way of doing it. Have another look at the procedure, particularly item 6. This states that the engine should be started with the expansion cap still off.

This is important because you will have to keep topping up the coolant to keep the level at the tank neck as the engine warms up. I suspect that you currently have an underfilled cooling system.

Give it another try Chris, following the MGR procedure precisely and let us know what happens.

Simon

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by ceedy

My bypass pipe when fitted is between the single pipe end and the Angled pipe on the other end with the remaining pipe that goes up to the tee piece blocked off with a specially turned Wooden Bung& hose clip

I find that difficult to visualise. Are you talking about the 3x32mm T-piece in the hose coming from the head and across to the upper inlet elbow of the radiator?



If so, the pipe going down from that T-piece to the PRT takes hot flow directly from the head before the primary valve opens. What purpose does blocking it off serve?

if its dry I'll crawl under with the mobile and get a piccy

That would help a lot I think. Take pics of the whole shebang top and bottom.

TC

[ceedy]

Maybe this explains it better
My stat bypass consisted of Connecting pipe 10 to pipe 12 with a plastic tube , and as I didn't have a 3way connector , the bottom end of pipe 13 was blanked off .

C.

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by ceedy

My stat bypass consisted of Connecting pipe 13 to pipe 12 with a plastic tube , and as I didn't have a 3way connector , the bottom end of the bypass pipe 13 was blanked off.

OK thanks, though I'm still confused about it. Do you mean the bottom end of pipe 10 was blanked off?
No matter, I'm actually referring to your latest results with a new PRT in position. You suspect the stat isn't allowing the lower end of the system to bleed. That's why I suggest you post some photos of the way it's all plumbed in. The PRT will only bleed properly when it's plumbed in with the correct orientation.

TC

[ceedy]

Just drained it all as per the "Official method" ..

and just about to methodically go throught the "Official method of refilling /bleeding" Again ..

waiting for the photos of the underneath setup to appear in my mail ..


Finally a pic .... notice anything



C.

Originally Posted by T-Cut

OK thanks, though I'm still confused about it. Do you mean pipe 10 was blanked off?
No matter, I'm actually referring to your latest results with a new PRT in position. You suspect the stat isn't allowing the lower end of the system to bleed. That's why I suggest you post some photos of the way it's all plumbed in. The PRT will only bleed properly when it's plumbed in with the correct orientation.

TC

[ceedy]

Well got everything crossed .... we may have it sorted and bled..

Seems happy to sit stationary at around 94 degrees.( with the 82 stat)..

But really its a barmy setup with the temp sensor at the top where its the hottest, and the supposed controlling device( stat) at the bottom where its a lot cooler .

But along as it working.. it'll do ..

While it was apart we did the water pump and cambelt/tensioner, and an oil change.. and now the crank bolt is tight we can start driving about to see what happens

Watch this space ..

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by ceedy

Finally a pic .... notice anything

You forgot to tighten the Jubilee? ??

The stat is orientated correctly for bleeding air from the lower part of the system. Is the downpipe from the upper T-piece attached to the PRT as shown in the Rimmer drawing?

The difference in coolant temperature at the top and bottom ends is negligible in terms of controlling the running temperature. It really does work as intended.

TC

[ceedy]

pass really just don't really know

Its always been connected exactly as the Rimmers Sketch.

Did drain it all again, for doing the pump belt etc , this time just to be sure I took off all 3 pipes

Then just refilled and did all the same as I have done before ..

Just had a short 10 miles run and the temps go up to 95ish then drop back to 89-90 when the stat opens then its stays in that range dpending on how hard its driven.

We will see ??

Chris

Originally Posted by T-Cut

You forgot to tighten the Jubilee? ??

The stat is orientated correctly for bleeding air from the lower part of the system. Is the downpipe from the upper T-piece attached to the PRT as shown in the Rimmer drawing?

The difference in coolant temperature at the top and bottom ends is negligible in terms of controlling the running temperature. It really does work as intended.

TC

[RobPlews]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

From my experiences, I don't think the PRTs currently manufactured bear any relationship to those developed by MGR. The colour of the plastic case was a code for the relief setting, but that no longer applies. Nobody in the spare parts business appears to know what a PRT actually does and they can provide no help regarding the pressure relief settings. For all practical purposes, a PRT is now just an in-line thermostat. But with three wide bore hose connections, it's clearly nothing of the sort.

The originals were buff and 88C with a medium relief setting. Mine had one from new and I found its performance was consistant and predictable. I was interested in the other variants so I changed to black as an experiment. The buff one ran at 90-100°C, with a distinct relief valve opening point at 2000rpm. The current black one runs at 88-90C with no observed relief. I may not push the revs high enough so I've never observed it. If so, I think it's more for the racers than for me.

From my experience so far, I preferred the OEM buff version where I could observe the relief system operating. Neither black nor buff is the right one for the engine according to Seloc Techwiki. However, the Techwiki article was edited in recent times and gives data diametrically opposite to the earlier edition.

Seloc Teckwiki:http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Pressure_Rel...ote_Thermostat

I'm slowly writing a HowTo Understand PRTs, which I'll post at some point.

TC

I’ve just swapped my original one out (well, not the original but a buff one that was OEM spec) for a black one which was supposedly cooler.

Damn thing is now sitting at 102C cruising at 60... not cooler at all!

Can’t think what’s the matter with it... have also changed the pump at the same time.

There doesn’t seem to be any relief in the system at higher revs.

[T-Cut]

Hello Rob, what running temperature did the original provide? I guess you felt it was too high and swapped for the 'lower' black one?

Where did you get the black one/Part Number?


The 'latest' thinking seems to favour the grey version, but the one I checked was not what I expected and returned it to the Land Rover outlet.


TC