Our 1.8T running temps

[kaiser]

Originally Posted by ceedy

Found this bit of text on a Landrover Site about a hot 1.8..

quote..
Bleed as follows - with engine cold, exp-tank filled to half-way between min and max, and with heater set to Max - and engine running on tick-over, open the bleed screw until coolant not air escapes.

Do not remove the bleed screw - slacken a turn or so only - the slippery little rascal has a habit of jumping out of your fingers and disappearing down the back of the engine - never to be seen again, or stuck in the undertray!

When warm there should be a constant stream of coolant returning into the expansion tank - if not then your pump is U/S.

You may have to repeat the bleeding every day for a few days until you get all the air out. A common mistake is only to bleed once when perhaps changing the anti-freeze for example. Once is almost never enough. I changed anti-freeze in November and it took me 4 goes at it before I was happy.
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Done this a few times and got air out of the Bleed screw, but never ever seen any coolant coming out of the small jiggle valve return Pipe ?

is it true this actually happens on a working 1.8 ? .

Got Belt /tensioner and Water Pump on the way from Matt , as the belts due ..

C.

PS .. Got a nice taste of coolant just now , from the Jiggle pipe .. If I suck hard enough .. .. so it does flow both ways

CHEERS! Buttoms up.

As for bleeding, don't hang yourself in details, use a strong rope!

But seriously, just check when cold, and if coolant is missing, add, and make sure that you don't have a leak.
Squeezing the big rubber pipe repeatedly will give you an audible indication if water needs to be added, and a visual one too, if you look in the expansion box.
Then drive and be observant at all times.
My FIAT overheated yesterday, kept all it's coolant though! so a blocked thermostat is expected. I shall find out today.

[ceedy]

Well the Offical method doesn't make any difference.
Plus that text isn't that much different if you compare the 2 .

As said before it loses absolutey NIL ..water.

Yesterday the car at running 7 stationay did a great inpersonation of a kettle . checked the system again with the bleed screw out , got a little bit of air ?? out maybe. but after a steady stream of coolant , screw back in . presure cap off and on a few minutes and all it did was boil and overlfow/lose a load of water ?.

Had a quick look at the ZR.. runs @89 all day .. never missed a beat in 50k miles .. and its got just the 2 pipes from motor to Rad .
The old ways the best


PS.... the bleed scew on this car is just a 6mm flanged bolt sealed by a fibre washer ? should it not have a groove in the thread to allow air to escape without taking the bolt right out, as is neccessary on this zed ?

[ceedy]

Right todays Episode ....

Drained all the coolant, and pulled out that ECp thermostat.

Connected 2 pipes up with a length of plastic cold water pipe. the other 3rd tube I Pulled up to the top of the rad out the way of the hot turbo and blanked it off.

So its running in the old style .. Motor to rad , rad to Motor and no stat.

Filled it again & it bled much easier and actually got a flow of coolant out of the jiggle valve pipe for the first time, so the pump is working .

Driving it as long as the car is moving it can barely get to 70 c.

Stop and it will obviously creep up but get moving again and the temps drop into the mid 60's .

So its all pointing to the Stat inhibiting flow both during the bleeding process and in normal use .

Chris

looks like another Order to DMGRS for a Black Stat.. and this one going back to ECP .

[Greeners]

well having got my 1.8T running, the fan kicks in at 105, and drops back to 91

I still think there's a bit of air in it and its been done without a road test as well

[ceedy]

So after a short time with the car running well with Stat removed and bypassed , abeit running a bit cool .

and then todays bit of work replacing the cambelt and leaky pump.

We also replaced the plastic pipe and wooden bung Mod ..I.e Stat bypass with this new stat from Matt @ DMGRS ...


And !!... its back to normal .. well not normal as in Working fine ..
its back to its old ways of won't bleed ,overheats very quickly.

Had the car showing around 100-102 and the stat being cold on one side and hot on the other ? and the rad bottom still being cool.

Slightly doing my head in !!

C.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by ceedy

... and the rad bottom still being cool.

That either means that there's no flow through it either because the PRT is closed or that the radiator is blocked.

Simon

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by ceedy

Had the car showing around 100-102 and the stat being cold on one side and hot on the other? and the rad bottom still being cool.

Just dropped in again for a quick one. Any chance you could post a photo of your plumbed-in PRT?

TC

[ceedy]

Will try and spend a bit of time this evening fiddling..

Found this old Thread on the exact same prob..

Some familiar names in it .. and no real solution ..

But I have been wondering about the pipe work , ( when clutching at any straw ) , as I've only connected it as it was before,
and the shape/position of the pipes doesn't really lend itself to any other way.
But still doesn't explain why it bleeds easy and runs ok ( maybe a lttle too cool) with no Stat in ?

My bypass pipe when fitted is between the single pipe end and the Angled pipe on the other end with the remaining pipe that goes up to the tee piece blocked off with a specially turned Wooden Bung& hose clip

C.

PS ..Simon , back in the depths of thisthread ...
a new RAD was fitted

PPS .. if its dry I'll crawl under with the mobile and get a piccy

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by ceedy

PS ..Simon , back in the depths of this thread ...
a new RAD was fitted

Yes, I remember that Chris. I was only pointing out one possible reason for the symptom you described. New radiators can still become blocked if there is contamination in the cooling system, whether they're new or old!

But I'm more interested in this:

Originally Posted by ceedy

its back to its old ways of won't bleed ...

What do you mean exactly? When you remove the bleed screw, what happens? Are you saying that, no matter how long you wait with a full expansion tank, no coolant emerges from the bleed orifice? Or are you saying that you always get coolant emerging and no air?

Simon

[ceedy]

I open the bleed screw , Slowly pour in Coolant, after a while I get a steady flow out of the screw hole , put back the screw and continue to slowly pour in until it fills the Exp tank .
Cap on and then start and run the motor .

the temps will climb and climb & even with the IPK at 100 ish the Stat is still cold on one side ( cold on the twin pipe end) .
The motor struggles to get any further up in temps ( about 102-3 max) when stationary so it rarely ever gets to switch the fan on.

C.