Couple of theories on the diesel cool running problem?

[wuzerk]

The diesel top hose is tapered, so, if you think the stat is not a good tight fit in it them just push it further up the hose towards the radiator.If you also suspect that the stat might be tilting inside the hose you can fit a jubilee clip for and aft of the rim to prevent this as an experiment. I repeat that you will not see 88C on our diesels unless you have the engine under a heavy load and I would consider a temp of 82C to be normal on my car at this time of year.

[kaiser]

A new working but slightly leaking stat is peanuts compared to the open heater system.
If you want to make sure the engine warms up as fast as possible, block the grille and fit a valve in the heater circuit, so you physically can switch that circuit off.

Fit the bottom skirt/plate to the engine compartment, and that is all you can do.

[Jules]

Originally Posted by kaiser

A new working but slightly leaking stat is peanuts compared to the open heater system.
If you want to make sure the engine warms up as fast as possible, block the grille and fit a valve in the heater circuit, so you physically can switch that circuit off.

Fit the bottom skirt/plate to the engine compartment, and that is all you can do.

Erm have you been to UK lately ?!!
The whole mission of us wanting quick warmup is to get our heaters working quickly Brrrrrrrrrrr

Same goes for the Metal KV6 stat.
Yours runs too cool for Uk climate

[kaiser]

Originally Posted by Jules

Erm have you been to UK lately ?!!
The whole mission of us wanting quick warmup is to get our heaters working quickly Brrrrrrrrrrr

Same goes for the Metal KV6 stat.
Yours runs too cool for Uk climate

Well, that is exactly the point.

Most people don't seem to realize that the temperature of the stat does not make any difference if the engine does not get up to stats opening temperature.

[Jules]

Agreed and that's why I state 7 miles for M47.
Radiator could be completely blanked off and 7 miles would still be fully warm distance in 5th gear

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by kaiser

Most people don't seem to realize that the temperature of the stat does not make any difference if the engine does not get up to stats opening temperature.

It does in the case being discussed here. The R5 stat bleeds continuously into the radiator. There's plenty of evidence that the in-line stats raises running temperature (without over-working the engine) if it's water tight when closed.

TC

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by Jules

"If a good silicone grease is used there is absolutely no need to grind the casing down. The Firstline stat slides in no problem at all"

Well there you go chaps.

TC

[clf]

Originally Posted by kaiser

Fit the bottom skirt/plate to the engine compartment, and that is all you can do.

It is fitted

Originally Posted by wuzerk

The diesel top hose is tapered, so, if you think the stat is not a good tight fit in it them just push it further up the hose towards the radiator.If you also suspect that the stat might be tilting inside the hose you can fit a jubilee clip for and aft of the rim to prevent this as an experiment. I repeat that you will not see 88C on our diesels unless you have the engine under a heavy load and I would consider a temp of 82C to be normal on my car at this time of year.

The hose clip is fitted firmly around the hose at the body of the stat. It is well seated level and sealed around the body to hose.

The temp seems to be 'normal' around the 82 to 84 mark, which until the ambient temps warm up, I am happy enough with (certainly better than the 75 from before). It is the speed at which it reaches these temps that concerns me now. Some people who have fitted this claim up to temp in 3 or 4 miles. Even driving like a 17 year old in a hire car, I cannot get it to temp that quickly.

I should add too, that the with the previous r5 stat fitted would only reach 75 by the time I reached my destination, this new one, reaches 75 within 3 miles

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by clf

Some people who have fitted this claim up to temp in 3 or 4 miles. Even driving like a 17 year old in a hire car, I cannot get it to temp that quickly.

I would be inclined to read such claims with a pinch of salt. Mine, with replaced OEM stat, gets up to temperature eventually - but it takes time and load to do it, even in the summer.

It really isn't possible for the engine to get up to temperature in the winter, with the interior heater taking what little surplus heat the engine produces, unless the engine is heavily loaded.

To make up for that 'deficiency', fit an FBH.

[clf]

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT

I would be inclined to read such claims with a pinch of salt. Mine, with replaced OEM stat, gets up to temperature eventually - but it takes time and load to do it, even in the summer.

It really isn't possible for the engine to get up to temperature in the winter, with the interior heater taking what little surplus heat the engine produces, unless the engine is heavily loaded.

To make up for that 'deficiency', fit an FBH.

Too many members have said it on too many different occasions to doubt it to be honest. Along with the fact that it now gets to 75 degrees so much more quickly than before(within 3 miles compared to 10), that I believe that it can be possible. As T-Cut has said the leak past the disc in the stat is the likely reason. It is quite substantial in my view, with just gravity, with water pump running this will be multiplied. The first video shows it quite clearly.

I am like a dog with a bone with this, so I apologise if it looks like I am ignoring anyone's advice. I am not, and I appreciate everyone's involvement and input. I am trying to do this methodically as possible, without clouding any solutions by concentrating on one component at a time. (which is why I havent restricted or blocked the heater hoses). Time and weather is hampering my opportunities doing much to it.

I have considered an FBH in the past, but ruled it out(at least in the near future) because of the complexity of fitment, and potential lack of use/benefit.

An interesting development I noticed after fitting the new inline stat was, as soon as the coolant reached 75, the heat in the cabin was noticeable warmer. As though the blower had been switched on. I rarely use the blower/ATC. (I do switch it on at least once a week however to 'excercise' it). My view would be that the heating circuit would not be zapping that much heat from the coolant when switched off. When I do switch it on, the temp does drop by up to 5 degrees quite quickly but does slowly and gently warm up again.