Clutch change saga

[JonMs]

Thanks for a brilliant write-up Pete. This is going to be so useful for anybody who needs to do this job, including me I suspect in the next year or two.

[willshot]

Thanks you for such a detailed and interesting thread. I'm envious that you have the patience and the stamina to undertake such tasks. I wouldn't even attempt it.

[EastPete]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

.........how can that be possible given that this is your first attempt at a 75 clutch

Surely experience wins every time?

Anyway enough rambling from me, well done

Brian

Thanks Brian

Your help/support (as well as that of Phil-T4, Arctic, French Mike) certainly helped me through. The car has had a 30 mile run out across the Fens today, and is feeling better all the time.

I am not a complete novice at the car mechanics game, but I am mainly self-taught and learnt my skills on older classics such as Morris Minors, and MGBs, with a full restoration of a Riley 1.5 performed about 20 years ago. This was my first attempt at a clutch change on a modern car - I planned carefully what I was going to do, made sure I had the best tools I could lay my hands on, and went very carefully and slowly. I labelled up all the nuts and bolts and bits I took off, so they went back in the right place. I cleaned up rusty threads and copper-greased them before replacing them, and everything was torqued to the correct torque setting. Pretty basic stuff, but I think many modern garages/mechanics do not use this approach.

I'll write up summary of my experience for others considering tackling this job, when I get a chance.

Thanks again

Pete

[EastPete]

Well, it's almost 200 miles on from the car going back on the road, and the new clutch is still behaving very well - smooth, light, progressive and not a trace of judder. I have checked the master cylinder today and the fluid level has not moved, with no signs of any leaks either at the MC or around the quick-fit connector or bleed nipple. I have had the tracking done today, as the car was pulling to one side slightly, probably due to the subframe being swapped and new rear arm bushes being fitted. The only minor irritation that remains is a faint diesel 'growl' as you go through the biting point on clutch take up - I think this is down to the all-metal pipework going from the slave up to the MC, transmitting a bit of engine noise into the car as the release bearing pushes on the pressure plate springs. Another member on here reported this as an issue on his CDT after fitting a Tazu master with the copper pipe - the cure is to fit a flexible hose in place of the copper pipe, so I have ordered one from HEL Automotive.

Reflecting on the clutch change job itself:

Is it difficult ?: This all depends on your previous experience of DIY car maintenance repairs. If you have some previous experience of replacing car components, then there is nothing that is really difficult. But, it is quite a lot of work, and not something you can do in an afternoon. There is quite a lot of dismantling, so you need to be methodical and label fixings as you remove them (I put all the key nuts and bolts into labelled sandwich bags), so that everything goes back in the right place. Taking photos along the way may help with reassembly later on.

Best method: I don't want to say that the method I used was the best, as we all have our favoured ways of doing things. The advantages of removing the subframe and gearbox completely are that you can clean everything up properly inside the bellhousing and make sure that the slave is correctly fitted with proper lubrication of the guide tube, input shaft splines and release bearing face. You can also check/replace the guide tube more easily. Removing the subframe gives you more room to manoeuvre the gearbox during removal and refitting, which are probably the hardest parts of the job. The use of M12 dowels/guides when removing/refitting the box is a good idea I think, particularly if doing the job for the first time, as this helps protect the input shaft and new clutch components from getting stressed/damaged. These dowels can also be used to help line up the subframe when refitting.

Special tools: You will need a good selection of sockets, ratchets, some breaker bars, and a torque wrench. A good trolley jack and axle stands are also essential. A second jack (or two) is really handy when lowering and refitting the subframe, if working alone. I had access to an engine crane, which really helps when removing/replacing the box. If you do not have an engine crane then some means to support and raise/lower the gearbox from above is a really good idea - FrenchMike's method shows a home-made bar that bolts to the gearbox mount, which can be used with ratchet straps to raise/lower the box. Alternatively, a sturdy (and I mean sturdy) length of timber placed across the top of the engine bay, used with ratchet straps or a long threaded rod (see YouTube video link earlier in this thread) could be used. You will need some means to centre the clutch plate - I used a Draper universal centering tool, which was OK and cost less than 10 pounds. A Gunson Eezibleed is ideal for bleeding through the hydraulics, if you do not go for prefilled slave/master cylinders. Otherwise, the typical selection of DIY garage tools should suffice.

Top tips/hints:

- Take your time, go carefully and slowly- do not force anything.
- If not replacing the master, flush the hydraulics through with DOT4 fluid before unhooking the old slave, so that the new slave does not become contaminated with debris/old fluid from the master.
- Check the guide tube and replace it (and the oil seal behind it) if it looks badly scored or worn.
- Clean up the inside of the bellhousing before fitting the new clutch parts. Check the flywheel for play, and clean the face with brake/clutch cleaner before fitting the clutch friction/pressure plates.
- Lubricate the guide tube with Moly grease (thin covering) as well as the release bearing face and input shaft splines with Moly grease or spline grease (supplied in the B&B kit).
- Only use good quality parts from a trusted source. LUK or Borg and Beck clutch kits seem the favoured choices, with either an LUK or Tazu all-metal slave.
- Clean up all fixings before replacing them and tighten everything to the correct torque settings (as in the Haynes manual).
- Try to tie up the steering rack really well once it is unbolted - if it drops down too much, it displaces the large rubber grommet inside the car, which will need refitting once the rack is bolted back into place (not a big deal).
- The bellhousng bolts and subframe bolts are differing lengths, so push them through labelled holes in a piece of cardboard, so that they go back in the right place.

I think these are my main thoughts looking back on the job. If I have time at some stage I will try to write up a 'how-to', but I did not really take a full range of photos to compile a thorough how-to. Much of the nitty-gritty is covered in the Haynes manual, so I really took pictures just to document progress or highlight any issues.

All comments/suggestions gratefully received.
Thanks again for all the support and positive comments received during this job (I hope I do not have to do it again in the immediate future - I still feel a bit tired from all the spanner work of the last three weeks).

Cheers

Pete

[Eddy600]

Totally agree with all the tips would like to add a couple myself from when I did mine,

- if doing it on the drive get the car as high as you can on Axle stands makes it easier when struggling underneath,
- have plenty of offcuts of wood to put under a trolley jack as a trolley jack won't go high enough to lift the gearbox into position,
- it is doable by yourself but I definitely recommend 2 people for dropping and re fitting the gearbox because it is a heavy old lump,
- have plenty of rags to hand for when pulling drive shafts out and dropping gearbox oil,
Good luck to anyone who takes on the task its a great accomplishment.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Eddy600

Totally agree with all the tips would like to add a couple myself from when I did mine,

- if doing it on the drive get the car as high as you can on Axle stands makes it easier when struggling underneath,
- have plenty of offcuts of wood to put under a trolley jack as a trolley jack won't go high enough,
- it is doable by yourself but I definitely recommend 2 people for dropping and re fitting the gearbox because it is a heavy old lump,
- have plenty of rags to hand for when pulling drive shafts out and dropping gearbox oil,
Good luck to anyone who takes on the task its a great accomplishment.

That wasn't on the grey ZT you sold was it Eddy?, or was it on your new 75?

Brian

[Eddy600]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

That wasn't on the grey ZT you sold was it Eddy?, or was it on your new 75?

Brian

Both unfortunately just the slave on the grey zt as it had the clutch done when I purchased it then it dumped all the fluid out of the slave! So that was done down the drive then I bough the 75 tourer with a swimming pool under the carpets and a slipping clutch so that has now been done and is in the paint shop for repairs down the driver side and then off to big Russ next week for a remap like to say I won't be doing it again but already getting the itch for another project!

[EastPete]

Originally Posted by Eddy600

Totally agree with all the tips would like to add a couple myself from when I did mine,

- if doing it on the drive get the car as high as you can on Axle stands makes it easier when struggling underneath,
- have plenty of offcuts of wood to put under a trolley jack as a trolley jack won't go high enough to lift the gearbox into position,
- it is doable by yourself but I definitely recommend 2 people for dropping and re fitting the gearbox because it is a heavy old lump,
- have plenty of rags to hand for when pulling drive shafts out and dropping gearbox oil,
Good luck to anyone who takes on the task its a great accomplishment.

Thanks Eddy

Some good points there - I didn't seem to have a problem with gearbox oil spilling out when I removed the drive shafts, I as drained the box thoroughly fairly early on in the job.

Cheers

Pete

[Eddy600]

More for all the grease that slowly drops off bad enough working on the ground, and if doing it on a driveway get some old bits of carpet for your knees was murder for me without, all those little stones did my nut in

[Lordy]

Well just finished reading this thread now and I'vbe got too say this its one of the best technical once here and the importance of a proper clutch change.

Also the key highlight which many people seem too miss is lubrication and you nailed it.

I've too say Peter well done, you handled this like a pro, Glad its all sorted for you.
I think you deserve these more then I do, my cityguilds form my tech days.

There's one thing about this place there's always people willing too help.
These gents here are really something special.