Possible Cure for Dodgy Handbrake..

[Synchromesh]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

I'd have thought any necessary up/down freedom would be present within the floating cable yolk. I can't see why much is required really since the whole thing 'floats' on the end of the cables and is simply pulled in line. Anyway, that's me done. If I ever work on a compensator, this is how I'll do it.

TC

When I looked at my V6 compensator the limited view through the centre console (2 torx screws and liner removed) appeared to show the single cable side of the compensator horizontal with the double cable side of the compensator sloping down (pulled down by the two cables). Like TC I expected a straight pull so expected to see the front and rear halves of the compensator aligned with each other.

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by Synchromesh

When I looked at my V6 compensator the limited view through the centre console (2 torx screws and liner removed) appeared to show the single cable side of the compensator horizontal with the double cable side of the compensator sloping down (pulled down by the two cables). Like TC I expected a straight pull so expected to see the front and rear halves of the compensator aligned with each other.

Hi
These photos were taken yesterday evening from Carl's car when i visited him note the gap between the two plates it should be 3mm but as you can see it is infact treble that 9mm which would make 39mm on the handbrake nut insted of the 25mm yes i have also added a video of the brake being applied on and taken off, there seems to be no cable stretch in either the single or double cables. It is infact floating above the large rubber bung which i have heard the compensator can be got to through, even though i would not like to try note how we must have that all round movement which as been stated back in this thread.

Once cover plate is removed you can get to compensator. Fig 1
1

Right away note that gap which is the stretch in the compensator rod.
2

This pic fig 3 shows the cable nut adjustment with washer also note the earth wires which can get easly broken when removing the carpet if you had to at any time but not to do this repair thank god
3

Fig 4 a full view of handbrake cables and compensators
4

View from above fig 5 note the angle of the double wired compensator to allow for adjustment on either back wheels
5

Fig 6 again you can see the twist
6

plate back in place fig 7
7

I am at the moment in the process of fitting my modified compensator with out removing the centre console or rear seats i will post this up at a later date i doubt anyone else will want to do what i am doing, but through this process i may find an easier way for others or not

Click the link below for video of handbrake cables working the compensators.
http://youtu.be/pqNtnf5BMxo

Arctic
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGrq-HeLvYQ

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

Here's another idea to simplify the modification, but allow all original movement in the cable yolk.



TC

This looks neat and easier to weld but with it being on top would it not catch on the cover plate just a thought as not much room if not you will still get all the movement needed nice very nice, just that space between top of plate and top extra bar welded on can it be tested and or measured so we can find out.

[JeffD]

Hey great pics! Fig 5 nicely illustrates the purpose of the compensator "compensating" for the "different length in cables" (which is most probably not down to thehm stretching but because each side of the brakes is adjusted/worn slightly differently.

According to the official workshop manual the compensator is access through that rubber bung but you have to remove the exhaust and heatshields first.

Not sure about the T-cut weld it on top mod. If you do that then the whole point of having that bar being able to rotate round the pin is lost - must be there for a reason. I think its to compensate for the primary cable becoming higher as you pull the handbrake lever up. If this worked surely it would be designed in the first place to all be one part???? Always worth remembering that what is trying to do is take 2 slightly different lengths of cable and turn it into one cable which is moving around so this "lose" joint takes up all the slack.

BTW Can we see the video? DOes it have a "release" date yet? ;-')

Top work :-)

[T-Cut]

It might, but again this is just a conceptual image. Instead of the upper rod maybe you could use a flat bar, say an eighth inch thick by half an inch wide. Is the cover plate level with the floor? In your Photo 1 the cover plate seems quite higher than floor level around the hatch.

TC

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by JeffD

Hey great pics! Fig 5 nicely illustrates the purpose of the compensator "compensating" for the "different length in cables"

BTW Can we see the video? DOes it have a "release" date yet? ;-')

Top work :-)

Click the link below for video of handbrake cables working the compensators.
http://youtu.be/pqNtnf5BMxo

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

It might, but again this is just a conceptual image. Instead of the upper rod maybe you could use a flat bar, say an eighth inch thick by half an inch wide. Is the cover plate level with the floor? In your Photo 1 the cover plate seems quite higher than floor level around the hatch.

TC

Hi T-Cut.
I cant quite remember now but will take a look tomoz and let you know. Arctic

[Arctic]

Yesterday i managed to make sometime to get over to use Carl's to use his car to test out the modified compensator,a new compensator it worked well and i am sure this is going to solve the dubious handbrake query we all seem to suffer from one time or another, i noted also the cables do not stretch only the compensator bar.
Note the used and stretched compensator above the modified one how it as opened up Fig 1
1

Adjusted nut to 25mm as it should be Fig 2
2

This photo shows all three compensators modified fitted above from left used compensator again note that gap and a new un-modified one which as the 3mm gap Fig 3
3

This time we have the un-modified compensator fitted and the others above still note that gap which on a new one is 3mm on a used and stretched one becomes 8mm on this subject but could be more on others Fig 4
4

Both the modified compensator and the new one felt more tight and held on three clicks but i suspect after a time only the modified one would remain like this as the new one (un-modified) would eventually stretch and again take up that adjustment on the threaded handbrake.
The next photos show the compensators off the car and how when held you can see how the stretched one will fold over on it's self loose, as to the other two un-modified and modified stay on the bend this is because of the stretch making the 3mm gap become 8mm + maybe in some cases. Figs 5/6/7
5

6

7

Below i have showed the measurement of the gap in all pics more so in the last two pics. Figs 8/9/10
8

9

10

I hope to post up some video's of the modified compensator working and the new un-modified compensator later today or this evening. Arctic.

[HarryM1BYT]

Thanks Arctic - good detailed comparison.

All we need now, is for someone to find an easy way to get at it without pulling most of the interior out.

[HarryM1BYT]

I've been giving this suggestion of the compensator being a deliberate designed in weak point some thought. Everything mechanical has one part which is that bit weaker than the rest of the system, the part which when it comes under too much strain, will break. Given wear and tear, the weakest part may in time change due to one part wearing to become weaker as time passes.

I don't for one minute believe that Rover deliberately designed this to be a weak point, a fail safe, because it doesn't really fail safe does it? It gradually just makes the handbrake less effective as it stretches and there have been a few reports of these cars rolling when parked, because the handbrake has not been fully applied due to the excess play. Surely the weakest link ought to be that of the amount of pressure you can physically apply with your left arm?