Engine stop rolling

[kaiser]

It is quite common for the manifold to have signs of oil and moisture. If you drive short drives and the engine does not get hot enough, moisture tends to mix with oil and you can get a "mayonnaise" coffee coloured sludge.

It can also come if you have water leaking into the engine, from the inlet manifold gaskets. Have you ever checked to see if the outer spark plugs have had water on them? That is a sure sign of leaking inlet manifold gaskets.
see specifically pictures in post no 7.
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=89142

The MAP sensor is new. But does it work?

[jymix]

No, the intake manifold as I have already said is clean apart from the pool of coffee once in force stress to rotate the engine idle without keeping your foot on the accelerator.
How do I check if a sensor works?

[kaiser]

The easiest way for you to test a sensor is to replace it with another. In some cases disconnect and run without, to see if there is a difference.

That's why I asked if you still had the old sensors.

[jymix]

Kaiser yes all these tests were done before the change of small belts ...
right now I'm enjoying the "good weather" for my back belts

Originally Posted by jymix

A summary of the circumstances and the verifications already performed my car (MG ZT 190 2.5l V6 ESS (2001)):
Down for 2 months.
Circumstances of failure:
Along the way, loss of power, the motor signal is displayed on the dashboard, followed by a gradual deceleration to a stop the engine. Can not restart.

Here are the previous investigations:

- I first thought of fuel starvation -> by filling 20 liters remained in the tank
- The candles were black and wet -> certainly drowned due to different misfire. I cleaned.
- The relay and fuses associated with the fuel pump -> Ok
- I listened to the pump through the tank -> Ok
- The pump seems to work correctly -> Key in position 1, you can hear turn
- Checking for gas to the injectors -> By disconnecting the supply line, key in position 1, I can gather from 20 to 25 ounces of gasoline
- Check the fuel filter without removing the filter but an attempt to pose an orange collar attaches the filter to set a default pressure -> Failed filter because my model is not compatible with the default . The orange clip is for sale ...
- Checking the crankshaft sensor -> I replace against a new but without effect.
- Verification of probes using a multimeter -> after cleaning and attempt to repair the lambda sensor with a torch, it gives "10 ohms" each. In truth, I do not even use a multimeter ... I have finally replaced by new probes
- Check sensor idle -> complete cleaning and change of the membrane (pending receipt of a new sensor)
- Check intake manifold -> Do not seem dirty, just a little too fat for my taste in the engine cylinders butterflies
- Check the air pressure sensor and temperature -> Thorough cleaning (eventually, I gave a new sensor)
.... etc.

Good short, I managed to restart the engine using the accelerator at the same time. But the problem is that I do not idle the engine. I have to keep the foot on the pedal and keep playing with the accelerator. It releases a lot of smoke at the back and at one point even accelerating the engine floods. And impossible to restart the engine whines again.

...

[workaholic_ro]

Originally Posted by jymix

How do I check if a sensor works?

You said you have an ELM327 interface ( or similar). Use it to read the values.

[jymix]

Soon as I can again turn the ignition key of the car, I remake all tests if the vehicle doesn't start

[jymix]

The situation is serious:
I just found out that there are exhaust valves. I probably forgot to mention that my mechanical knowledge is almost nonexistent.
But basically, given the state of the small belt before replacing, is it not likely that one or more exhaust valves is bent?

How can I check the status of mechanically exhaust valves? This famous white smoke coming out the exhaust is not the result of exhaust valves bent?

[workaholic_ro]

Originally Posted by jymix

The situation is serious:
I just found out that there are exhaust valves. I probably forgot to mention that my mechanical knowledge is almost nonexistent.
But basically, given the state of the small belt before replacing, is it not likely that one or more exhaust valves is bent?

How can I check the status of mechanically exhaust valves? This famous white smoke coming out the exhaust is not the result of exhaust valves bent?

If nothing happened with the front timing belt you have no reason to suspect the intake valves.
About the exhaust valves, as stated before, I don't know, you only have to check or hope.
Only a compression test will tell, if you don't want to take the heads off. It doesn't matter that the inlet manifold is not in place, the valves must close the cylinder hermetically.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCNna-qJscY
Kaiser already explained you how to perform the test, the cams for the cylinder you are testing must not be in contact with the valves. You'll need to rotate the engine for each cylinder to have it's valves in close position when blowing in it.
Didn't you find a cork yet to put it instead the spark plug ?
Please make sure that you understand the above, if not, just tell, will try to make every detail clear.
It doesn't make any sense on this stage to do anything else than make sure the valves are doing their job.

[jymix]

I have already done the test buttons on the intake valves. on the test with the pressure, it was not conclusive because the air doesn't compress.

[jymix]

Originally Posted by jymix

Kaiser already explained you how to perform the test, the cams for the cylinder you are testing must not be in contact with the valves. You'll need to rotate the engine for each cylinder to have it's valves in close position when blowing in it.
Didn't you find a cork yet to put it instead the spark plug ?

I have already done the test buttons on the intake valves. on the test with the pressure, it was not conclusive because the air doesn't compress