Play in Rear suspension

[Kernowchristoff]

Hey Guys

How are you all.

My 75 is poorly just failed an MOT on rear suspension. They said its "not attached".


I looked on the ramp and at the top their is play and the top of the strut goes into the top of the wheel arch and when your driving like over a level crossing you get a loud thunk,

The struts were replaced three years ago and the car has only done 25000 since then I am at a miss.


Thanks guys and take care.

[Devilish]

Perhaps you should go into more detail.

The rear suspension consists of
Sub frame
Trailing arm
Upper suspension arm
Lower suspension arm
Coil spring
Shock absorber
Anti roll bar and drop links (Not all models)
The shock absorber, upper arm and coil spring , lower arm, anti roll bar, drop links can (I said can) be removed individually leaving the rest of the suspension components in place.

The "struts" are at the front, they are a single unit, the shock absorber passes through the center of the coil spring, it is removed in one piece for dismantling.

So if it is as you say "The struts were replaced", well that is the front suspension, not the rear.

If the rear subframe itself has no advisories, you are looking at replacing the upper and lower suspension arms, if the springs have never been replaced, would be worth replacing those too.

[xsport]

MOT fail list should detail ... Maybe your post devilish has sent him down the local for a swift 6 or 7 pints ...

[Popcorn]

At a guess you mean rear shock,it probably needs one of these
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rea...g-zt-rpf100060

[Kernowchristoff]

Hey guys nearly went to the pub lol.


The rear shock absorber it travels into the top of the wheel arch and the Thunk yes I was think rear top mounts.


Maybe I should replace both sides just a pain to do it.


Thanks guys

[Devilish]

Maybe a little, but the easiest suspension job by far.
If the shocks were replaced 25,000 miles ago, do you know exactly what was replaced.

My tourer failed MOT on a broken rear spring, 100,000 miles, I noticed the upper arms were on their way out, so a few days ago I finished.....

Removed and efurbished the sub frame.
Treated and sealed the whole of the underbody.
Cleaned up and treated the backplates.
New upper suspension arms
New lower suspension arms.
New shock absorbers and top mounts.
New anti roll bar drop links.
New tank strap.
New rear silencer.
Modified the heatshield mount holes.
Replaced all the nuts & bolts with new ones, including the subframe captive nuts.
New brake shoes and fittings

All proactive, but arms were only a MOT or two from reactive.

In a few days I plan to change the drive belts, and pop a repair kit on the starter motor.

Does that not make you feel better.

Oh I forgot.

I removed the towbar, treated & coated it.
Dumped the wheel arch liner nuts, cut off the screws and replaced them with stainless scrivets.
Removed the tail lights, made sure the scrivets were nice & tight and replaced the plasic sockets, while they were off I replaced all the bulbs, because I cannot recall the last time a bulb went.

It was on axle stands for about 2 weeks.

[grivas]

Originally Posted by Devilish

Maybe a little, but the easiest suspension job by far.
If the shocks were replaced 25,000 miles ago, do you know exactly what was replaced.

My tourer failed MOT on a broken rear spring, 100,000 miles, I noticed the upper arms were on their way out, so a few days ago I finished.....

Removed and efurbished the sub frame.
Treated and sealed the whole of the underbody.
Cleaned up and treated the backplates.
New upper suspension arms
New lower suspension arm..
New shock absorbers and top mounts.
New anti roll bar and drop links.
New tank strap.
New rear silencer.
Modified the heatshield mount holes.
Replaced all the nuts & bolts with new ones, including the subframe captive nuts.
New brake shoes and fittings

All proactive, but arms were only a MOT or two from reactive.

In a few days I plan to change the drive belts, and pop a repair kit on the starter motor.

Does that not make you feel better

Hi, could you say which rear silencer did you fit and where did you purchase it from please. Thanks

[Devilish]

The last one I bought was oversize pipe, it slid straight on where I cut it, but it had hanger bars welded to it.

This one has the same size pipe, but has a cradle like the original, cut off about 6" from the length of pipe I kept from the last one and made a collar and used 2 clamps.

Will go and look at the sticker

the silencer is Euroflow

Walker silencers are decent price, they also use a cradle,

[mbn]

Glad to hear you were able to sort out the exhaust pipe issue with the cradle and clamps. It sounds like you got creative and found a solution that works. And good to know the silencer is a Euroflow one - I've heard good things about those.

Walker silencers are a good option, yeah. They're a well-known brand and their prices are reasonable. The cradle design is a nice touch, makes installation a lot easier.

[Devilish]

I cut off the original silencer just in front of the sub frame, I completely forgot where I got the oversized one from, but the length I cut from it makes a perfect collar that taps onto the original cleaned up pipe, apply the clamp, then tap the silencer into it. Hanging a cradle/band to jack the silencer up into makes it a walk in the park.

The silencer is a EuroFlo EXRR6058 + Band