You cannot buy a wheel bearing nut, separately.

[MissMoppet]

I'm in the process of changing a rear brake backplate (more of that anon) and thought I'd get a new wheel nut as it has to be nicked into the slot. Not shown on Eurocarparts website so I popped in and was told "you have to buy the bearing as well." There's nothing wrong with the bearings so I said, "It's probably the same as a BMW or many others, can you have a hunt?" "No, the thread might be different and you can probably get one on eBay." "I want it today."

So I moved to a neighbouring GSF Car Parts and put it on the counter in front of the receptionist.





The following conversation took place with not the vestige of any humour whatsoever.
"It's off a Rover 75."
"What is it? I know what it is but you have to tell me."
"Is this a game? It's the wheel bearing nut: it holds the wheel on."
"No, that's a wheel nut." (Oh I thought we've got a right one here).
"Ok well maybe, it's the nut that holds the bearing on."
"Right but you have to tell me so I don't sell you the wrong part, but we can't sell it separately from the bearing as it's covered by a patent."
"Rover have been out of existence for 20 years, what does it matter?"
"Well someone holds the patent, even in China."


I left.

[KWIL]

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-CDU1534


Not that cheap with their shiping

[daveo138]

Aftermarket version...a bit cheaper

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-CDU1534LP

[TBennet]

Just wanted to mention that if the bearing is by any chance the original one, now is an excellent opportunity to replace it, (still good or otherwise.)

(Also, unless you've already done so, getting the old one off without damaging it may prove impossible anyway.)

[vilas66]

Here:
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/abs/7717086

[MissMoppet]

Originally Posted by TBennet

Just wanted to mention that if the bearing is by any chance the original one, now is an excellent opportunity to replace it, (still good or otherwise.)

(Also, unless you've already done so, getting the old one off without damaging it may prove impossible anyway.)

Thanks for that - and all the other suggestions - but it came off very easily, no problem there - still wrestling with the back ferrule, like everyone else. (Car's only done 66K).

[Arctic]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130843744351


Not 100% sure but i think the Freelander1 hub nut fits.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394296170602

You would need to double check, another way is to swap over the rear hub nut from the other side, when it comes to staking, it should be in a different place.

[DMGRS]

We have lots in stock here: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rov...534-front-rear

Generic factors don't really do very well with MG Rover stuff anymore - but we've got them on the shelf, ready to go

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by MissMoppet

... still wrestling with the back ferrule, like everyone else.

Do you mean the entry point on the backplate for the handbrake cable? If so, I know only too well what you mean! There's one of those "too clever by half" YouTube videos which says that using a socket of the same ID as the tube as a punch gets it out. I remain unconvinced so if you try it I'd be interested to hear the result.

Originally Posted by Arctic

... another way is to swap over the rear hub nut from the other side, when it comes to staking, it should be in a different place.

A great idea Steve!

Simon

[MissMoppet]

Originally Posted by SD1too

There's one of those "too clever by half" YouTube videos which says that using a socket of the same ID as the tube as a punch gets it out.

Simon

This one from Rimmers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5HqyBZ1BKQ. I did try the 8mm socket suggestion but you would need a deep 8mm which I don't have, but any tube of the right dimensions would do. Anyway deep researching of this Forum came with all sorts of ideas - using a Dremel, which I don't have, or a Junior Hacksaw which looked tedious. But I wasn't going to pussy-foot around along that route, my solution was this: a long cold chisel round the back levered it off in no time.





You are then left with the cable end and the fused together sleeve or ferrule that sat on the back of the back-plate. I thought it would then be a simple matter of using a mole wrench to separate the sleeve from the end of the cable, but it was rusted on solid, which baffled me. But at least it gave me room to use a proper hacksaw (300mm new blade) to separate it. I held it in my mole wrench resting on a block of wood.