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22nd May 2019, 16:05 | #41 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 cdt club + Rover 2.5 KV6 Conni SE Join Date: May 2008
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And How about the radiator cap? You can put new o rings on it if you like.
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22nd May 2019, 16:20 | #42 |
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As far as I have experienced, atleast the KV6 engines have no radiator cap, only an expansion tank cap
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23rd May 2019, 12:52 | #43 |
This is my second home
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23rd May 2019, 13:22 | #44 |
This is my second home
75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007
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If the cap fits, and all that jazz!
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23rd May 2019, 21:13 | #45 |
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Well not exactly the same thing, a radiator cap is a radiator cap and an expansion tank cap is an expansion tank cap But anyways, just small talk, let's have a beer instead
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25th May 2019, 22:03 | #46 |
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Noticed an issue yesterday, plugged in my obd2 diagnose plug and ran a scan with torque, it came up with P0306 misfire cylinder 6 as current fault, deleted it, reappeared, deleted it again, took the car for a spin and it did not appear again ever since. The thing is that even though it was saying it has a current misfire, I couldn't hear neither a single different engine noise nor something similar that indicates something's wrong, exhaust sound is also clean as before and not indicating a misfire. One thing to notice though is that after I removed the error, even if it didn't appear again, it happened to me that when I started the engine, the car was slightly fluctuating in rpm like up and down, and when it was down it was feeling like the engine is about to die, revved it up and then went to normal, also, another time later I started the car and just a sec after the engine shut itself off. For the last 2 days though, no issues. Is it possible that the misfire error was stored in the computer from the last time that I started the engine when working with the thermostat and having a piched o ring resulting in petrol spilled out through the injector? Maybe that's where the misfires happened since it was spitting petrol out. Anyways, it has to be something related to what I've done when installing the thermostat, because now there's not a single drop of petrol loss through the injectors or the rail...
Last edited by Rsnail; 25th May 2019 at 22:05.. |
26th May 2019, 08:38 | #47 |
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
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I suffered a misfire recently and believe me, you would be in no doubt if you had one.
Was the pinched fuel 'O' ring on no. 6? I've had the fluctuating idle for years and have yet to find out what's causing it. It hasn't done any harm. Simon
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26th May 2019, 12:35 | #48 |
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Yes one of the pinched rings was also no. 6, but as said, right now there is no leak, everything is bone dry If the problem reappears will try swapping cylinder 6's coil and spark plug (one at a time) from another cylinder and see if the misfire appears at the cylinder where no. 6's spark plug/coil was fitted
Last edited by Rsnail; 26th May 2019 at 12:40.. |
7th December 2019, 22:12 | #49 |
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I am coming back to this thread for some related question.
The passenger side for my lhd car is barely blowing any heated air at all now in the winter time so I guess my matrix is blocked, I want to flush it but I also want to avoid the hassle of taking it out of it's place, would rather do a flush from the engine bay side. Now to get to my questions: Would I have to cut hoses and join them back afterwards with some simple hose connectors and clamps? Or can they simply be undone somewhere on their length after the firewall? Also, when flushing, is it important to do it only one way or can I flush it both ways? Which hose is the one running at the top of the matrix? I am thinking of pushing out all of the coolant from the matrix with the help of a small air compressor and then filling it with some descaler through the hose that goes to the top of the matrix if water can flow through it in that direction too, what do you guys think? Last edited by Rsnail; 7th December 2019 at 22:21.. |
8th December 2019, 04:41 | #50 |
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No need to cut anything. Follow the small hose from the thermostat, it goes to the heater. Where it goes into the firewall, the other heater hose sits next to it through the wall. Both can be separated in the engine bay.
Use a hose pipe and flush both ways a number of times. It helps a lot to fill the heater and blow it out with short sharp flows of compressed air. Just use the air to blow water out. Don't pressurize the heater element. If you want to see what comes out, flush into a white bucket
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