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#11 | |
Give to Learn
Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: West Midlands
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The resistor you are seeing is it silver or a gold one, you can get a long thin screw driver to move the fan blade around as one section is larger than the other gaps, do this of cause when the battery is not connected or the 80amp fuse in the under bonnet fuse box as been removed. As I said above I suspect the PCB board, also remember I am only about 5 miles from you, therefore if you get stuck and if you wish you can have a drive over, I have PCB boards that have already been to Mike and are repaired, also gold resistors, a PM will see you get my address if you wanted to do that Arctic.
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 17th August 2018 at 21:08.. |
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#12 |
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Mg zt Join Date: May 2016
Location: Walsall
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![]() Something in the back of my mind says this isn't the answer. I can see how replacing the resistor will restore the lower speed to the fan. But how will it stop the fan being on even after the ignition is turned off?
As I said in the first post I currently have to disconnect the battery to stop the fan otherwise it just runs and runs |
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#13 |
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Mg zt Join Date: May 2016
Location: Walsall
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![]() Thanks arctic. I hadn't seen your reply when I posted above. That will teach me to refresh the browser first.
Unfortunately I'm not actually in Walsall anymore I moved back to chesterfield about a year ago. I think you're right about the control board tbh. Just not sure where to find one around here. I could pay by PayPal if you'd be good enough to post one |
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#14 | ||
Give to Learn
Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010
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Hi Craig. What a shame that was the main reason i said if it was the PCB which I still think it is, or it could be a wire chaffed touching another or earthing as the diesel fan is permanent live then, I/we could have removed it replaced with one i have then I would have your old one to send off to French Mike again once i have a few put together as these PCB boards are no longer available so the old one is a must have in exchange. So you not being just up the road, puts you in the same position as other members they would need to send the board off to him for repair. You will still be able to drive the car with it removed as I doubt the diesel would over heat being how efficient it is keeping cool. You will still need to remove the PCB so you/we can see what type it is in the control box. You will need to remove the front bumper, the crash bar, then tow 8mm bolts either side of the fan and two 8mm below, this should give you enough room to bring the fan forward enough to check the wiring and open the control box, if not then I am afraid it is slam panel removal with lights, cut round the A/C joints so as not to disturb the gas, this will let you remove the fan from the car completely. Thinking about it now, it maybe your best plan of action from the start fully remove the fan as you need to check all wiring from the motor to the control box, the wiring from the car loom to the plugs that connect to the fan wiring, no easy way round this one really, therefore personally I would go the route of full removal of the fan from the car.
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " |
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#15 |
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Mg zt Join Date: May 2016
Location: Walsall
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![]() Again many thanks to everyone who has offered help and advice it really is much appreciated.
I've been reading all the old how to guides etc and am pretty sure this is a job I'm prepared to take on. If I get stuck my son is a hgv mechanic so he can get his hands dirty too.as much as he moans about working on cars. He says everything is too small and crammed together. I was going to start over this weekend but I did something to my back at work last week and just couldn't face it tbh. But I'm off after this week and will be getting stuck in to it then. At least I'll have a few days where if the car isn't able to run it won't be the end of the world. One good thing came out of having a bad back though. I was able to have a wander around chesterfield motor rest this afternoon. And have a look at some beautiful cars both new and old. Including an absolutely beautiful concourse standard V8 and an equally good V6 Connie se. So I haven't totally wasted the day lol If when I get the fan off and it isn't as simple as a loose connection/ stuck relay/corroded wire would it be worth my while to temporarily fit an aftermarket fan to provide some extra cooling until I can get the unit repaired? I think I have a 16" one kicking about from an old project. I would have never dreamt of running it without a fan. As I always assumed a diesel engine would be quite hot running. And that overheating would be really likely really quickly. But you live and learn. |
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