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6th January 2014, 12:20 | #21 |
Posted a thing or two
120d M Sport Join Date: Feb 2012
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It was worth a chuckle though. Anyway, I will be darkening your doorstep for a clutch master cylinder later this month, hence my interest in the post.
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6th January 2014, 13:23 | #22 | |
Discount MG Rover Spares
Rover 75 CDTi, 2x MG ZS180 Join Date: Jun 2011
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Quote:
Cheers Mat
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24th July 2017, 08:49 | #23 |
Newbie
Rover MG ZTT Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Bury
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clutch master cylinder replacement -eventually!
I acquired my first 1999 diesel 75 a few weeks ago and changed the clutch master cylinder after careful perusal of the forum and particularly good photos by rich17865. It seems that I encountered nearly every possible snag along the way! I bought a new Tazu unit. The old cylinder came off relatively easily but I found that I could not start the new bolts by hand. One side was particularly tight and I needed to use a cable tie and a small nut inside the socket to start it off.
My nicely shaped copper pipe ended up more like spaghetti. With experience, it would be easier next time but I spent a ridiculous amount of time on it. On a positive note, separating the connector in the engine bay was a breeze. Instead of needle nozed pliers, I use small water pump pliers. The round shape of the grip made it easy. It seems to work fine now. |
10th January 2018, 13:05 | #24 |
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mg zt Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Ely
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Clutch Master
Replacing my Clutch Master Cylinder at the weekend, simply going to pull the split pin from the Master Cylinder where the pipe exits at the forward end, remove the Roll Pin with a punch and reverse the procedure with the replacement Cylinder and bleed the system, I don't want to have to remove the pipe as there is nothing actually wrong with the pipe just the Cylinder and the pipe looks like a complete ass to get out and back in. I will let you know how it goes.
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10th January 2018, 14:11 | #25 | |
This is my second home
Roverless + 1.7D Sportage Join Date: Aug 2014
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Quote:
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10th January 2018, 14:33 | #26 |
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mg zt Join Date: Mar 2014
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Master Cylinder
Got the replacement Cylinder from that lovely auction site, removed the Split Pin and Roll pin with a 3mm punch, took out the Pipe that was in there and it looks really simple as it just came out. I'm also going to cut away the soundproofing above the Master Cylinder as it makes getting the cap off the Cylinder almost impossible. incidentally the car passed it's MOT with just two advisories last week after being sat on my driveway for a year with a Slave Cylinder leak, the girlfriend and I had the gearbox off the car and back on in a day. I spotted the Master leak whilst I was bleeding the clutch but as the MOT was already booked and the clutch worked, stuck it through anyway. I will take some photos at the weekend and post them on here, hopefully it will go well.
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13th January 2018, 19:20 | #27 | |
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All Done
Quote:
Here we go....... 1. Connect a tube to the clutch bleed point and if the pedal still works even a bit, pump some oil up the pipe, it will be obvious why at the end of this why I did this. Close the bleed point and leave the pipe connected and supported up by the battery box, you need fluid to remain in the pipe. 2. Now the fun starts, but it is easier than changing the pipe, Remove the clips securing the Master Cylinder and the Clutch Pedal, they come off quite easily, simply lift the flat part of the clip and slide them off. 3. Disengage the Clutch Pedal return spring by simply popping it out of the top of the Pedal then at the Brake Pedal end of the pivot pin that holds both pedals in position, pull the pin out sufficiently to allow the Clutch Pedal to drop out of position. 4. Disengage the Master Cylinder from the Pedal and remove the Pedal from the car, this will give great access to the Master Cylinder and the pipe that sticks out of the forward end. Access now gets a bit poor. 5. Remove the two 8mm bolts securing the Master Cylinder to the Pedal Assembly and then, with the Cylinder hanging in there by the pipe, remove the Split Pin from the Roll Pin, it is Quite soft and long so it can be removed with fingers. Fun bit coming up. 6. With a bit of manual dexterity, and a lot of rags to collect the spilled fluid, position the Cylinder so you can see the end of the Roll Pin that secures the adaptor for the pipe and with a 3mm punch tap the pin out of position, it's a little tight to begin with, but once you get it moving you will see why it has a Split Pin through it. Make sure you catch the Roll Pin when it comes out as if it goes behind the soundproofing, that's the last you will see of it. 7. Pop the Cylinder off the Pipe Adaptor and remove it from the car before it leaks everywhere. Now is a great time to cut a hole in the soundproofing above the Master Cylinder as it has always been in the way of getting the cap off, make sure the end of the pipe with it's seal is protected from fallin debris whilst you do this. 8. Prep the replacement Cylinder by carrying out the same procedure, Split Pin out, Roll Pin out, Adaptor Remove. Prior to putting the replacement Cylinder in, start the Roll Pin in the hole just enough not to prevent the Adaptor being fitted. This will greatly assist when it comes to knocking the Roll Pin back in as access is a bit poor under the dashboard. 9. Put the Cylinder on the end of the pipe ensuring it is fully seated and the seal is still in position and Push/Tap the Roll Pin into position. Fit the Split Pin through the Roll Pin and bend its legs out to stop it falling out. 10. Place the Master Cylinder in position but do not fully tighten the bolts just yet. 11. Refit the Pedal and reconnect the Master Cylinder to the Pedal, I used a little silicone based grease as a lube for the Pedal Pin and the Cylinder, slip the Securing Clips back on and tighten the two 8mm securing bolts. 12. Remove the Cylinder Cap and put about 5-10ml of fluid in. Fit the cap, loads of access now, but leave it a little loose. 13. Back in the engine bay now, hold the end of the bleed tube high up as you can, I used a longish one, put some Brake fluid in the tube with a syringe and open up the bleed screw to allow the fluid to flow slowly back to the Master Cylinder. Close the bleed screw before the fluid is totally out of the bleed pipe and fully tighten the Master Cylinder cap. Job done, tidy up and go for a drive, My Clutch didn't need any more bleeding and now works great, gorgeous and I went out for a drive up to Starbucks and we were both all smiles. I hope this is of some help to other users on here. I'm happy with it and proud as punch of the other half, without her I would never have been able to get the gearbox off and back on, especially in a day. Don't think I've missed anything. If I have let me know. Wizzo337. |
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14th January 2018, 09:59 | #28 |
This is my second home
Roverless + 1.7D Sportage Join Date: Aug 2014
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Well done to you both. I may need to borrow your other half one day as mine isn't as flexible as she was (in more ways than one!).
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