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31st August 2015, 15:01 | #1 |
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Rear subframe captive nut spinning
I am replacing the rear upper arms on my 2001 conn se, and the job was going well until torquing up the inner bolt on the subframe. Got to about 60lbf and then "crack" and the captive nut started spinning.
Feeling with my fingers over the top of the subframe and there appears to be a cavity where i can feel the end of the bolt. If i take the subframe off can the captive nut be replaced with a normal nut, and bolt it in with the subframe off the car? Once done will it then fit back in with the arms fitted? Because it is spinning i cant now remove it either. Does anyone have a subframe off the car that they could take a picture of the captive nut arrangement for me? Is it a proper nut welded in? Or one of those square ones. I was just wondering if a suitably sized cranked spanner would fit in the gap to hold it. On a positive note, removing the subframe will give me chance to do a proper job of repainting it and protecting it, but it all depends if it is possible to get it back in the car with the arms on |
31st August 2015, 15:05 | #2 |
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No pics sorry, but the nut is just a cylinder with a flat plate where it welds to the subframe, you might be able to get hold of it with mole grips, but its much easier to remove the subframe, you can replace with a nylock nut once you have removed the damn thing!
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31st August 2015, 21:25 | #3 | |
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31st August 2015, 21:59 | #4 | |
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Now that is a stupid design. Even if they retained the slots you would have thought they could have used a hexagon nut for just such occassions as this. There is just room to get a short stubby spanner in if it was hexagonal. To make it round is a kind of booby trap for mechanics. From feel i would say its probably the slots that have come off. In the photo there they dont look especially strong, and even when new I wouldnt have given them much chance of holding 89 lbf's. |
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1st September 2015, 01:33 | #5 |
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If you've a MIG with a narrow head you can put a good sized spot weld to secure the captive nut without removing the subframe through the drain hole adjacent to the captive nut
You have to be accurate though as you don't want to weld the bolt to it, tricky as you have to sight it then weld it blind, certainly not for the faint hearted Have done this in the past saves having to drop the entire subframe Russ
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1st September 2015, 06:00 | #6 | |
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Worst case if i cant get it done that way then remove the lot. From the looks of the subframe bolts and washers i need to get some new ones ready for the task. |
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6th September 2015, 20:53 | #7 | |
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They are in a closed box section beneath the rear floor, so to get to them if they break away you have to cut through the floor. Last edited by Mike Noc; 21st October 2019 at 21:30.. |
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7th September 2015, 05:13 | #8 | |
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That looks terrible. Not even an access hole above it. The factory must have had great faith in their welding skills. I must be honest and say that i had expected sub frame removal to be a heavy and difficult job, and i had visions of the securing bolts shearing off leaving me with a bigger problem, but in the end it was easier than i thought. If i were to do the arms again then i would do it this way from the outset. My time served 6 sided impact socket had become worn so started slipping, but took delivery of a new sealey wall drive impact socket and they all came out nicely. |
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9th September 2015, 22:34 | #9 |
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Good to see you managed it David.
Sorry I was not any help. |
10th September 2015, 05:22 | #10 |
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