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9th September 2012, 10:07 | #1 |
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Battery Drain Pain!
After leaving my 180 ZTT for a few days the battery goes totally flat.
I replaced the battery - under warranty - and it still happens. It gets so flat that the interior lights won't turn on. I've fully charged the battery and left the car for a few days without locking it and it still goes flat Any ideas? Cheers, Tim |
9th September 2012, 10:10 | #2 |
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Have you added any thing electrical, obviously something is drawing power all the time.
It could be the boot light even |
9th September 2012, 10:47 | #3 |
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No changes to the car, just started doing it.
I thought it was a duff battery hence changing it for a new one but still the same. I've checked for lights left on but nothing. |
9th September 2012, 10:52 | #4 |
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If you have sat nav - check that it shuts down.
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9th September 2012, 11:07 | #5 |
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one of the modules aint going to sleep .with a multi meter you can see what is being drawn ,then unplug each module till you see a drop in the reading ,that wll be the module that is drawing the power .
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9th September 2012, 11:25 | #6 | |
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Quote:
One check you could try, is wiring a headlamp bulb first then a 21w lamp across FL3 in the underbonnet fuse panel, instead of the 50amp fuse. The lamps should go out, if there is no loading on the fuse. That fuse is the one which supplies most of the things which have their supplies to them maintained, when the car is otherwise all (supposedly) turned off.
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
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9th September 2012, 11:36 | #7 |
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I would begin by using an ammeter to confirm that there is, indeed, current being drawn from the battery when everything is off. I'd use my multimeter on its 10A range, connected in series at the battery earth terminal.
By measuring the current you might even get a clue as to what is causing it. For instance, 2A would suggest a 25W bulb. 0.42A would suggest a 5W bulb. This might help you home in. Then you can start removing fuses one at a time until the drain disappears. This will give you a very strong clue to where the problem is. Obviously don't switch on the ignition or try to start the car with your multimeter in circuit, as you'll blow the fuse in the multimeter (not a major problem, but inconvenient all the same). Steve |
9th September 2012, 12:30 | #8 |
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Current drawn by the car should fall within 30 minutes or so, down to approximately 30mA or 0.030 Amps depending upon model, but car must be left undisturbed for that to happen (no doors or switches touched).
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
10th September 2012, 17:25 | #9 |
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10th September 2012, 17:48 | #10 |
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When you put the ammeter in series with the negative lead of the battery , and you disconnect but it still does not remove the drain , then i would say try disconnecting the alternator , i have seen the rectifier cause this problem .
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