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5th August 2016, 20:36 | #1 |
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rover 75 saloon Join Date: Oct 2015
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Changing tie rods
How hard is it to change inner and outer tie rods on a 75,is it a diy job or garage job
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5th August 2016, 20:39 | #2 |
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Rover 75 Tourer, Classic mini Cooper S, Abarth 595 competizione, MG TF and a Hyundai Tucson PHEV Join Date: Feb 2007
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If you mean the links between the rack and the track rod ends then I didn't think they were available and they were part of the rack?
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5th August 2016, 20:46 | #3 | |
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Quote:
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/...-steering-rack https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/...jb100180-lh-rh |
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5th August 2016, 21:01 | #4 |
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rover75 saloon cdti Join Date: May 2011
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Hi there are some how to video's on you tube, what i see of it is that you need a special tie rod spanner[ much like a long plumbers tap spanner] i don't know if this helps
David |
5th August 2016, 21:26 | #5 |
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I grounded flats on the rounded part of of original tie rod and got a big open ended spanner on it. DIY job, the new tazu ones are poor quality.
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5th August 2016, 21:31 | #6 | |
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Quote:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3310622762...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Last edited by steve1975; 5th August 2016 at 21:33.. |
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6th August 2016, 05:08 | #7 |
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It's a fairly easy job but get your tracking checked after you do it. Many say measure the rods and count the turns when you take them off and screw new ones on but you can still be wrong
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6th August 2016, 09:32 | #8 |
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Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008
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Just done mine - the inners are available from DMGRS. Fairly straightforward job. Here's what to do:
1. Loosen wheel bolts, jack up car, support on stands, remove front wheels and undertray. 2. On side you are working on, turn steering so gaiter bellows are long (I actually also undid the ARB bush bracket and drop link to move ARB out of the way, but this may not be essential). Crack the locknut on the inner tie-rod/outer track rod joint (22mm nut, 19mm spanner to hold flat on track rod end). 3. Remove nut on outer track end to hub steering arm joint, and crack joint with a ball joint splitter or hammering. Unscrew the outer track rod end from inner tie rod. Note how many threads are visible on the inner tie rod to locknut, so you can re-assemble with the tracking still roughly 'in'. 4. Pull rubber gaiter off end of steering rack - you might want to cut the metal band or plastic tie on inner part of gaiter to make this easier - the outer part of gaiter is held with a spring clip that can be removed with long-nosed pliers. 5. Now unscrew the inner tie rod from end of rack- I used a Stillson pipe wrench for this, and they came off quite easily. To refit the new ones, put a drop of Loctite on the thread and screw onto the rack - the new ones I bought had flats on them that took a 32mm spanner, so use that to tighten. Then replace gaiter (with new inner clip if necessary), refit outer track end (or new one) positioning the lock nut so the thread length is the same as before, to maintain tracking. 6. The rest is a straight reversal of dismantling - best to get tracking re-done afterwards. Cheers Pete |
6th August 2016, 11:46 | #9 | |
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Quote:
>< I bought MOOG ones their p/n VOAX-0358 They are actually for a VW Sharan. The last pair I bought came from Poland and they lasted 2 years !. Looking at them, I need to hacksaw circa 3mm off the threaded part ( that screws into the rack ). Other than that, they are nigh on identical. I beleive ( you'll need to check ) others are: QH GR3266 Unipart GSJ1310 Delphi TA1673 First Line FTR4742 These are all VW Sharan or Ford Galaxay and ought to require the small mod i mentioned. >< The small mod is to shorten the threaded stud ( the one that screws into the rack ) by around 3mm iirc. |
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6th August 2016, 12:23 | #10 |
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The ones from DMGRS are exactly the right length, and do not need any modification.
Pete |
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