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20th August 2013, 13:04 | #1 |
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75 Connie Auto CDTi SE Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Liverpool
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Non warm starter
Okay the car starts really easy of a morning or on a cold start.
After driving a while and engine is hot it will not restart, just keeps turning over until battery dies. It will start with a jump start but Ive only tested that when engine has cooled down So far i have: Removed cam sensor cleaned and put in freezer to cool down Replaced diesel fuel filter Checked battery voltage and tightened connectors Checked fuel pump is flowing (and got covered in diesel) All with no luck. Any other suggestions. Btw when the car is running it doesn't miss a beat
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20th August 2013, 13:17 | #2 |
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rover 75 tourer Join Date: Mar 2008
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Try starting it using a can of easy start from Halfords. Squirt it through the top of the front grill where the air intake is while someone cranks the engine. If it starts with this it indicates a leak back problem with the injectors. This issue is very common, you can get the injectors refurbished at lynx diesels in Wokingham. The seals perish with age allowing too much fuel to leakback which means the hp fuel rail does not reach the minimum pressure to allow the car to start. The easy start allows the engine to start on the injected easystart which allows the fuel pressure to be raised just high enough for the engine to start. When the engine is warm the seals are softer and allow more fuel to leak back. You can also do a leak back test but this is more involved. I have had this same problem occur on 2 different cars at about 85, 000 miles.
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20th August 2013, 13:22 | #3 |
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75 Connie Auto CDTi SE Join Date: Aug 2011
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Hi Chris
Im going to jump start her again and take her for a run to heat the engine back up. When i get back ill try the easy start and see how it goes
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http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...1f7d5496b4.jpg Mods done: Towbar - EGR replaced with SS straight pipe - Synergy 2 - Aircon resistor replaced with JMA - Walnut and Leather Steering Wheel - Walnut Hand Brake and Walnut Auto Gear Stick - Walnut Dash - Sean's DD Unit with DVBT - 2.0 CDT Torpedos - Boot Badge and mk1 Chrome Plinth - D Pillars - Union Alloys - X-Power Upgrade Slowly adding pre project bits and bobs |
20th August 2013, 15:51 | #4 |
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Nissan Navara Join Date: Oct 2011
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When you do start it, go for a drive and settle at about 1200 RPM in 3rd 4th or 5th gear then floor it. If it stalls then chances are one/some of ya injectors are leaking back.
(Same thing happened to mine last year) Injector leak back test is dead easy to do and doesnt take long. make sure you've an empty 2 ltr bottle and a load of old rags handy. I replied to your wanted thread about borrowing a cam sensor I have one, pm me.
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20th August 2013, 16:36 | #5 |
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As the leakback gets worse it starts to cut out when you floor it at low revs as the fuel pressure drops too low and the ecu shuts down the engine. Not much fun when overtaking!
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20th August 2013, 16:51 | #6 |
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Hmm went for a good 15 minute drive and bought a can of easy start then returned home and turned engine off. Restarted after waiting 30ish seconds and it started. Turned back off and waited for 5 minutes, started again. Waited another 5 minutes and again it restarted. It would appear to be okay.
I'll be back out in her later and see what happens then and report back. I don't have any cut outs or hesitation when i put my foot down, apart from the warm starts over the past couple of days, she has been driving really good. Alan thanks for your offer, i'll let you know asap
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http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...1f7d5496b4.jpg Mods done: Towbar - EGR replaced with SS straight pipe - Synergy 2 - Aircon resistor replaced with JMA - Walnut and Leather Steering Wheel - Walnut Hand Brake and Walnut Auto Gear Stick - Walnut Dash - Sean's DD Unit with DVBT - 2.0 CDT Torpedos - Boot Badge and mk1 Chrome Plinth - D Pillars - Union Alloys - X-Power Upgrade Slowly adding pre project bits and bobs |
20th August 2013, 19:26 | #7 |
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Just before I changed my faulty injector, anymore than 1/2 throttle would make it stall. That was royal pain in ....
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21st August 2013, 22:09 | #8 |
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Update
The car is now actually starting warm although it can sometimes take a good 6 to 8 seconds cranking before firing up.
Ive put out a shout in the main forum to do a test using another members cam sensor off there car to see if it will fire up straight away or hesitate like my own So if firing straight off i'll buy a new sensor Or if the same go and get injectors checked Does this seem a good order or is there another area I should also check?
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http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...1f7d5496b4.jpg Mods done: Towbar - EGR replaced with SS straight pipe - Synergy 2 - Aircon resistor replaced with JMA - Walnut and Leather Steering Wheel - Walnut Hand Brake and Walnut Auto Gear Stick - Walnut Dash - Sean's DD Unit with DVBT - 2.0 CDT Torpedos - Boot Badge and mk1 Chrome Plinth - D Pillars - Union Alloys - X-Power Upgrade Slowly adding pre project bits and bobs |
22nd August 2013, 14:01 | #9 |
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That is how mine stated. It used to take longer and longer to start when warm/hot. When I sorted out the leak back you just have flick the starter rather than cranking it for 10 seconds hoping it would start. I drove it like that for about 3 months with it gradually getting worse. I got it sorted when it started cutting out as it got dangerous.
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22nd August 2013, 18:05 | #10 |
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75 Connie Auto CDTi SE Join Date: Aug 2011
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Today i had to start it with easy start so i guess its injector leak back.
I'm going to take it to Burscough Diesels as soon as i finish my night shifts. And ill report back the eventual problem
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http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...1f7d5496b4.jpg Mods done: Towbar - EGR replaced with SS straight pipe - Synergy 2 - Aircon resistor replaced with JMA - Walnut and Leather Steering Wheel - Walnut Hand Brake and Walnut Auto Gear Stick - Walnut Dash - Sean's DD Unit with DVBT - 2.0 CDT Torpedos - Boot Badge and mk1 Chrome Plinth - D Pillars - Union Alloys - X-Power Upgrade Slowly adding pre project bits and bobs |
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