1.8T Overheating/Overboosting

n5sey · 20th August 2008, 14:29

Hi All ,

I have a 53 Plate Rover 75 1.8T Auto Club SE .

It has developed two very worrying problems . The first is that it is over heating . The temp gauge will sit at half on idle , as soon as the car is driven ie develops some boost the needle goes up to the red light , if i back off it will slowly drop down again . The second is a splutter around 3-4k rpm like a misfire .

I have searched the forum and put the splutter down to two things ... leaking boost pipe or coil packs . There is a nipple on the turbo that has a blanking gromet zip tied on ?

My friend plugged in a snap on code reader thingy and it came up with various fault codes :

Bad earth
Temp Sensor
Actuator overboost

For the over heating i have :

Replaced the thermostat ( new style one )
Replaced the temp sensor on the side of the engine ( is there another )
Flushed the cooling system and refilled using the bleed screw to avoid air locks

I am still having exactly the same problem .

Hopefully someone can help me

Thanks in advance

David

n5sey · 20th August 2008, 14:54

Forgot to add , there are no signs of the Head Gasket having gone . No mayo in dipstick , filler cap or expansion . Radiator looks brand new and i have flushed from the bottom radiator pipe also . heaters blow hot .

kaiser · 20th August 2008, 15:16

Hi there.
The first thing we need to know is, are you loosing water? then we will take it from there.

JohnDotCom · 20th August 2008, 15:18

Check the Radiator Cap for Leaks or Replace.
Check the Fan motor is still running (very often require replacement)

Ensure that the Water level is always full as the Head Gasket goes quite quickly on these with overheating problems.

Welcome to the Club, there is plenty of Posts on Overheating on the 1.8 engines.
Petrol guys will be along to advise more later.

n5sey · 20th August 2008, 20:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaiser

Hi there.
The first thing we need to know is, are you loosing water? then we will take it from there.

I have flushed it that many times its not something i have checked ie i have filled it with water that many times !!!

Will top it up 2morrow, run it and check .

When filling should i take it to the max level on the right hand side of the bottle or until i can see it at the top of the expansion tank ?

n5sey · 20th August 2008, 20:14

oh and the fan is def working , you can hear it spinning

Greeners · 20th August 2008, 20:27

Ideally the cooling system should be vacuum filled to ensure there is no air in the system, although it can be done conventially with care.

Also, if you look in the top of the expansion tank, if you can't see the MAX level, then it's go too much fluid in and it will get blown out.

Is there any white contamination in the oil ?

T-Cut · 20th August 2008, 20:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by n5sey

oh and the fan is def working , you can hear it spinning

But are all the speeds operating correctly?
Check that the slow speed works when the engine is running, preferably cold, and the A/C is switched to 'Auto'.

It should then stop within a few seconds of turning the A/C to 'Econ'.

You need the slow speed fan to control normal running temperature. The emergency high speed may well be OK, but that only trips in emergency overheat situations.

TC

n5sey · 20th August 2008, 22:26

Thanks for all the replies so far , very helpful especially as my first post is a " HELP!!! " post

Will update tommorrow when i am with the car .

How can you re-fill under a vacuum yourself ? or is this dealer only

n5sey · 20th August 2008, 22:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greeners

Ideally the cooling system should be vacuum filled to ensure there is no air in the system, although it can be done conventially with care.

Also, if you look in the top of the expansion tank, if you can't see the MAX level, then it's go too much fluid in and it will get blown out.

Is there any white contamination in the oil ?

No Contamination in the oil , it started this after a slightly spirited drive .

One good sign is the top hose connecting to the metal housing with the temp sensor in it had a split in it , then burst on a fault finding drive . Car was shut down pretty much there and then and has now been replaced . my thinking was air was getting in through a leaky pipe maybe causing an air lock ?

20th August 2008, 14:29	#1
n5sey Newbie 75 1.8T Club SE Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 10 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	1.8T Overheating/Overboosting Hi All , I have a 53 Plate Rover 75 1.8T Auto Club SE . It has developed two very worrying problems . The first is that it is over heating . The temp gauge will sit at half on idle , as soon as the car is driven ie develops some boost the needle goes up to the red light , if i back off it will slowly drop down again . The second is a splutter around 3-4k rpm like a misfire . I have searched the forum and put the splutter down to two things ... leaking boost pipe or coil packs . There is a nipple on the turbo that has a blanking gromet zip tied on ? My friend plugged in a snap on code reader thingy and it came up with various fault codes : Bad earth Temp Sensor Actuator overboost For the over heating i have : Replaced the thermostat ( new style one ) Replaced the temp sensor on the side of the engine ( is there another ) Flushed the cooling system and refilled using the bleed screw to avoid air locks I am still having exactly the same problem . Hopefully someone can help me Thanks in advance David

20th August 2008, 20:27	#7
Greeners Moderator MG-ZTT Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 19,798 Thanks: 161 Thanked 1,249 Times in 1,036 Posts	Ideally the cooling system should be vacuum filled to ensure there is no air in the system, although it can be done conventially with care. Also, if you look in the top of the expansion tank, if you can't see the MAX level, then it's go too much fluid in and it will get blown out. Is there any white contamination in the oil ? __________________ *David* Impecunity is the mother of ingenuity Useful how to's for common problems Car Of The Month Jan 2014 [SatNav Power Down] [Coolant Level] [SatNav Repair] [Diesel Non Starting] [Paint Codes] [Rear Light Seals] [Reversing Light Switch] [Bleeding Brakes][Sunroof Drain] [Early ZT's][Instrument Pack Diagnostics][ATC Diagnostics]

20th August 2008, 14:54	#2
n5sey Newbie 75 1.8T Club SE Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 10 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Forgot to add , there are no signs of the Head Gasket having gone . No mayo in dipstick , filler cap or expansion . Radiator looks brand new and i have flushed from the bottom radiator pipe also . heaters blow hot .

20th August 2008, 15:16	#3
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	Hi there. The first thing we need to know is, are you loosing water? then we will take it from there.

20th August 2008, 15:18	#4
JohnDotCom * Rover 75 FaceLift Tourer CDTi 170BHP Auto ConnSE 2005 Model Starlight Silver Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Abergele Posts: 28,735 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	Check the Radiator Cap for Leaks or Replace. Check the Fan motor is still running (very often require replacement) Ensure that the Water level is always full as the Head Gasket goes quite quickly on these with overheating problems. Welcome to the Club, there is plenty of Posts on Overheating on the 1.8 engines. Petrol guys will be along to advise more later.

20th August 2008, 20:14	#6
n5sey Newbie 75 1.8T Club SE Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 10 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	oh and the fan is def working , you can hear it spinning

20th August 2008, 22:26	#9
n5sey Newbie 75 1.8T Club SE Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 10 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks for all the replies so far , very helpful especially as my first post is a " HELP!!! " post Will update tommorrow when i am with the car . How can you re-fill under a vacuum yourself ? or is this dealer only