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21st June 2019, 12:50 | #1 |
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Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019
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Rear spring isolators
Has anyone bothered to replace the rubber isolators when fitting new rear springs? They seem fairly bullet-proof to me so I'm not sure it's worth the £50-ish.
Nos. 2 & 3 - https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001551 |
21st June 2019, 12:57 | #2 |
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The spring I got from Rimmers a few months ago had them already on the spring. But I'm going to be cleaning the old ones and reusing them on future springs.
Only problem is they're a bit of a mare to get off. Especially when the spring breaks leaving about four inches still attached. Plenty of washing up liquid and a sturdy screwdriver and the bits eventually come out
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21st June 2019, 14:22 | #3 |
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It's odd that some of them come with isolators and some don't .
Mine (RKB101420 / RB / Pink) isn't even listed on Rimmers now so I've bought a pair of KYB's instead. I'll wait & see if I can get the old isolators off without wrecking them before I buy new ones. I think the original MGR springs tended to snap because of the way they were cut - i.e. tapered instead of 90 degrees. |
21st June 2019, 19:18 | #4 | |
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Quote:
Mick
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] T4 Owner Jobs done : new UBP, Spy hole mod, Rear hub(wheel bearing),plenum cleaned and emptied, Inline thermostat fitted,Full service, In car Digital tv/DVD Bluetooth Satnav etc, Replaced UBP, Restored headlights,Fixed airbag connection.replaced HP pump,replaced rear light seals,changed intercooler O rings. Jobs to do: ,replace drivers lock,.[/SIZE] |
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22nd June 2019, 08:26 | #5 |
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I refit the old ones which were still supple and intact as my car is low mileage. As Mickey says, just make sure that the slots line up with the drain holes when refitting or you will get pooling, resulting in premature tinworm on the arms.
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22nd June 2019, 08:35 | #6 |
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I re used my old ones as there were no new to be had except from Rimmers on certain spring configurations............unfortunately not the right ones for my car. There were a couple of second hand ones on ebay but looked no better than the ones I took off.
Used marinabrians method of replacement which was really easy and allowed cleaning and painting / rust proofing of all the subframe assembly. As has been said, watch those drain holes.
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22nd June 2019, 14:47 | #7 |
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Thanks chaps.
What's the betting I forget to line up the drain holes! I can't find marinabrian's method - anyone got a link? Actually, looking at this pic, maybe it's the isolators themselves that cause the springs to snap - i.e. they're too hard and are forcing the bottom coil to try and uncoil itself against the rest of the spring, causing a stress fracture. When mine snapped (both of them) the break was exactly where the spring starts to wrap round the isolator. Here's the isolator on its own - https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RKB100970 Last edited by Blink; 22nd June 2019 at 14:53.. |
22nd June 2019, 15:51 | #8 | |
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Marinabrian Baculum Magicum marinabrian's Avatar A few too many Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: The People's Republic of North Tyneside Posts: 17,786 Thanks: 2,532 Thanked 8,323 Times in 4,566 Posts Default You don't need to remove the ARB to replace the rear springs Simply slacken slightly the subframe bolts opposite side to the spring you're changing, and remove the ones on the side you're changing the spring on, along with the bottom damper mount. Once you done that, refit the subframe bolts to that side and remove the opposite side. Once the new springs are fitted, torque up the subframe bolts to the specified torque and job done Beats frabbing about with drop links and rusted fasteners any day of the week.....20 minutes to do both rear springs Brian
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] T4 Owner Jobs done : new UBP, Spy hole mod, Rear hub(wheel bearing),plenum cleaned and emptied, Inline thermostat fitted,Full service, In car Digital tv/DVD Bluetooth Satnav etc, Replaced UBP, Restored headlights,Fixed airbag connection.replaced HP pump,replaced rear light seals,changed intercooler O rings. Jobs to do: ,replace drivers lock,.[/SIZE] |
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