ANGLE OF AUX BELT TENSIONER 24mm NUT

[KRISTLEE]

Hi All,

Not thinking to measure when I was off , if you look directly towards the ancillary pulleys on the diesel engine from the wing what angles are the faces of the 24mm nut on the tensioner? Or is the nut rotation placement different on each engine?

As I am now at work I am going to fabricate an open ended 24mm spanner from 5mm flat bar to ensure it is narrow enough to pass between the gap.

The reason I ask for the angle of the faces is so that I can fabricate the spanner head at an offset if necessary so that I can get more leverage from above when turning the spanner towards the aft of my car to release the tension (i.e spanner almost horizontal at the slam panel rising to vertical when turning towards the bulkhead).

P.S I`m working nightshift 6pm-6am so if I am late with a reply or thanks please accept my apologies.

[Mike Noc]

Don't know if my GhettoTech version helps.

The nut doesn't protrude that much, so might be better to either cut down a socket or ring spanner as opposed to open ended.

[IMG][/IMG]

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by KRISTLEE

Hi All,

Not thinking to measure when I was off , if you look directly towards the ancillary pulleys on the diesel engine from the wing what angles are the faces of the 24mm nut on the tensioner? Or is the nut rotation placement different on each engine?.

I agree with above, it will vary from pulley to pulley. A ring spanner or socket cut down is what is needed.

[KRISTLEE]

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Don't know if my GhettoTech version helps.

The nut doesn't protrude that much, so might be better to either cut down a socket or ring spanner as opposed to open ended.

[IMG][/IMG]

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT

I agree with above, it will vary from pulley to pulley. A ring spanner or socket cut down is what is needed.

Cheers lads,

A ring spanner version will be easy enough to make up instead of open ended. What is more important to me is the width of the tool really so a length of 5mm flat bar with a 24mm ring key cut into it so the whole tool is 5mm wide and will fit into my gap. I will make a couple up with the rings offset to one another just incase one gives more leverage angle then the other when fitted onto the tensioner pulley nut.

[David Lawrence]

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Don't know if my GhettoTech version helps.

The nut doesn't protrude that much, so might be better to either cut down a socket or ring spanner as opposed to open ended.

[IMG][/IMG]

Mike,


I am preparing to do the belts on my 2001 190k mile cdt. The main belt looks fine but the AC belt looks in bad shape, with a lot if cracks in it.

I purchased a standard 24mm ring spanner which I intend to modify like your picture. was your spanner flat to start with? i mean was the ring in line with the shaft, cant quite tell what the angles are from the photo.

This one i have here has about a 15 degree angle to the ring.

[Mike Noc]

Yes David it was a standard 24mm combination spanner bought on the bay similar to these with a slight angle on the ring end:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silverline...item19e95cee5c

I cut the open end off with an angle grinder, ground the ring edge facing the tensioner flat and ground into the bar next to the ring so it would locate better on the nut.

The other welds on the spanner were ground almost through, bent to suit and then welded up, and an end extension welded on.

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by David Lawrence

Mike,


I am preparing to do the belts on my 2001 190k mile cdt. The main belt looks fine but the AC belt looks in bad shape, with a lot if cracks in it.

I purchased a standard 24mm ring spanner which I intend to modify like your picture. was your spanner flat to start with? i mean was the ring in line with the shaft, cant quite tell what the angles are from the photo.

This one i have here has about a 15 degree angle to the ring.

I did my belts yesterday with a standard ring spanner which has a slight angle to the ring end. No trouble at all and the slight angle made it easy to fit on the nut.

The ring end is 13 mm thick and the angle about 10 degrees. The overall length of the spanner being 310 mm.

I used one of those straps with a ratchet around the chassis to the right of the spanner to pull and hold the tensioner while I moved the belt about.

Much easier to ratchet the spanner than to move it by hand. Safer too.


PS. Working under the wing.-- ( I did the alternator pulley last.)

[KRISTLEE]

Hi All,

Not updated for a while..

Had to do my aux belt twice in the end due to the gasket splitting when I fitted my new water pump which gave me a bit of a leak so it all had to be stripped down again...

The 2nd time around I found it much easier to put the belt around the crank pulley last whilst my brother in law had an open ended spanner on the tensioner going through the headlight space (light removed obviously lol)