Rear brakes/handbrake service

Gigagator · 1st April 2019, 08:49

Morning all,

Can anybody send me a link to a how-to on servicing the rear brake drums?

I've done discs and pads before but never worked on drums and certainly not the integrated discs/drum as on the 75.

It feels like there's a bit of an imbalance using the handbrake and I've no idea what condition it's all in as never messed around with the brakes on my 75 since purchase.

Also worth noting that last year I installed the stainless compensator supplied by Arctic.

Many thanks in advance.

planenut · 1st April 2019, 09:13

I've done it on a few cars now and once accomplished, one wonders why we put it off.

I always have a Haynes open to assist, and as suggested there and elsewhere, only dismantle one side at a time, to therefore have the other as a pattern.

Depending on your dexterity, I actually found that once reassembled, to carry out the adjustment, it was easier to lay on the deck, under the vehicle with my head/neck resting on something, and use a good torch and small screwdriver (having marked the adjusting wheel with paint or similar whilst dismantled).

The cables should equalize the imbalance when you've set up, adjusted, and flexed the handbrake system several times.

caravaman0 · 1st April 2019, 09:41

Hi Just have a look at this and you will see how to do it.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...ad.php?t=23845

roverbarmy · 1st April 2019, 14:52

There's a noisy Youtube version by "The Lads"!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZiC...MVL2Ue0xl-0L-O

vacuman · 1st April 2019, 22:22

Had another go at doing mine today as the sun was shining. Even with a powerful torch all I could see through the bolt holes was either backplate or spring. Couldn't see the adjusters if my life depended on it.

Had to settle for another turn on the handbrake nut. Takes 5 clicks to get it to hold on a gentle slope so that will do for now. Maybe another time I'll take the calipers and disc off and see what's what.

Gigagator · 2nd April 2019, 09:07

Thanks for the pointers all.

I've ordered new brake shoes from DMGRS so I'll update on how I got on next week.

roverbarmy · 2nd April 2019, 09:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gigagator

Thanks for the pointers all.

I've ordered new brake shoes from DMGRS so I'll update on how I got on next week.

The shoes rarely wear as they do nowt! Problems are usually associated with compensator, adjusters, cables or connection points into drum (disc).

first-things-first · 2nd April 2019, 10:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by roverbarmy

There's a noisy Youtube version by "The Lads"!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZiC...MVL2Ue0xl-0L-O

That's a new technique. Copaslip on the pad surface.

Arctic · 2nd April 2019, 10:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gigagator

Thanks for the pointers all.

I've ordered new brake shoes from DMGRS so I'll update on how I got on next week.

Hi Rhys
The video is only useful to allow you to see how the brake disc and Pads fit, personally I would not go down that route of removing the drum disc as it is an awkward way of doing it.

Later today or earlier this evening I will try and post up some photo's for you cheers Arctic.

Some snap shots below, I have a more comprehensive photo session to post up

PS remember my way is not necessarily the way everyone would do it but it works well.

Andy_with_a_screwdriver · 2nd April 2019, 16:04

Mine looked like this just after I bought it nearly 2 years ago.
Somehow passed the MOT days before, but the handbrake wouldn't hold on the hill at my house.

I fitted new shoes and pads, plus Arctic's modified handbrake compensator.

It still never really worked very well, despite several adjustments and I just though it was the design.

12 months later I replaced the rear suspension arms, hub bushes etc.
I inspected the brakes whilst off and was shocked to find the shoes were already down to metal

The pads were barely worn.
The inside of the discs where the shoes run were very badly scored with large grooves where someone had previously not changed the shoes. This had worn my shoes prematurely, combined with me tightening continuously because it wasn't working well.

I had to replace the discs and get another pair of shoes. Since last June with new discs it has been working well, I think I've just adjusted it once in about October when I had the back wheels off. It will now, if I choose to, hold the car in drive at traffic lights. Live and learn.

Just a warning to check the inside of the rear disc for damage.

1st April 2019, 08:49	#1
Gigagator Avid contributor Rover 75 Saloon, Rover 25, Mazda 6 Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Cardiff Posts: 220 Thanks: 143 Thanked 112 Times in 49 Posts	Rear brakes/handbrake service Morning all, Can anybody send me a link to a how-to on servicing the rear brake drums? I've done discs and pads before but never worked on drums and certainly not the integrated discs/drum as on the 75. It feels like there's a bit of an imbalance using the handbrake and I've no idea what condition it's all in as never messed around with the brakes on my 75 since purchase. Also worth noting that last year I installed the stainless compensator supplied by Arctic. Many thanks in advance.

1st April 2019, 09:41	#3
caravaman0 Loves to post Rover 75 Tourer cdt1 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Sheffield Posts: 365 Thanks: 52 Thanked 26 Times in 20 Posts	Hand brake Hi Just have a look at this and you will see how to do it. https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...ad.php?t=23845

1st April 2019, 14:52	#4
roverbarmy This is my second home Roverless + 1.7D Sportage Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: East Norfolk Posts: 7,083 Thanks: 729 Thanked 2,021 Times in 1,449 Posts	There's a noisy Youtube version by "The Lads"! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZiC...MVL2Ue0xl-0L-O __________________ Oil in my veins!

1st April 2019, 22:22	#5
vacuman Gets stuck in MG ZT-T Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: St Albans Posts: 855 Thanks: 69 Thanked 236 Times in 172 Posts	Had another go at doing mine today as the sun was shining. Even with a powerful torch all I could see through the bolt holes was either backplate or spring. Couldn't see the adjusters if my life depended on it. Had to settle for another turn on the handbrake nut. Takes 5 clicks to get it to hold on a gentle slope so that will do for now. Maybe another time I'll take the calipers and disc off and see what's what. __________________ • This vehicle was the 8,186th ZT-T to run off the production line, out of 8,249 • This vehicle was the 1,723rd ZT-T 190 + to be made out of 1,756 • This vehicle was the 149th ZT-T in Mica Blue (Ignition) (code: JGY) to be made out of 160 Mica Blue (Ignition) ZT-Ts

1st April 2019, 09:13	#2
planenut Regional Secretary Rover 1.8T Tourer Join Date: May 2007 Location: Heathrow Posts: 7,010 Thanks: 1,551 Thanked 2,036 Times in 1,264 Posts	I've done it on a few cars now and once accomplished, one wonders why we put it off. I always have a Haynes open to assist, and as suggested there and elsewhere, only dismantle one side at a time, to therefore have the other as a pattern. Depending on your dexterity, I actually found that once reassembled, to carry out the adjustment, it was easier to lay on the deck, under the vehicle with my head/neck resting on something, and use a good torch and small screwdriver (having marked the adjusting wheel with paint or similar whilst dismantled). The cables should equalize the imbalance when you've set up, adjusted, and flexed the handbrake system several times.

2nd April 2019, 09:07	#6
Gigagator Avid contributor Rover 75 Saloon, Rover 25, Mazda 6 Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Cardiff Posts: 220 Thanks: 143 Thanked 112 Times in 49 Posts	Thanks for the pointers all. I've ordered new brake shoes from DMGRS so I'll update on how I got on next week.