Key-Fob suggestions please - (2002 diesel tourer):

[peterh]

While it works fine mechanically via the door-lock - and the car starts perfectly well, there is suddenly no sign of any electrical life from my Valeo key fob, despite having tried a couple of alternative new 2032 batteries.

1 The car doesn't lock/unlock remotely using either of the key-fob buttons.
2.The sidelights no longer flash on attempting a remote lock/unlock.
3. There's no l.e.d. light on the fob itself when either lock or unlock button is pressed. However, I can't remember what's meant to happen - perhaps it only ever happened on successful interaction with the car, so should I expect this? I'm assuming that I shouldn't expect the fob-l.e.d. to light up, because I have a spare fob circuit-board from a scrap vehicle - and when I put that into my current car's fob with a new battery, that one doesn't 'flash' either when either fob button is operated.
4. The Owners' Handbook suggests that if the fob isn't arming/disarming the alarm, it may have gone out of synch. with the receiver unit in the starter switch and recommends multiple button-presses while close to the car to resynchronise. However having tried this, both with key in ignition and out, nothing happens, and in mechanical key-operating mode, the alarm system seems to function normally in that if I lock the car with the bonnet slightly open I get the usual single bleep from the horn...

Any thoughts on potential remedies would be appreciated please - including recommendations on an economical source of a duplicate replacement key/fob if that's the only remedy available...
Many thanks in advance for your ideas.

[vitesse]

The key fob should light up (red light) whenever either the lock or unlock button is pressed. Sounds like either the batteries are dead (check 3v with multimeter) or the keyfob circuit boards are dead, including the one from the scrapyard.

Keyfobs can be reprogrammed with Toaf (.43) but first you have to get a working remote board.

Good luck

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by peterh

3. There's no l.e.d. light on the fob itself when either lock or unlock button is pressed ... perhaps it only ever happened on successful interaction with the car, so should I expect this?

If the LED on the key fob doesn't illuminate it suggests that the fob is not transmitting a signal. It's my understanding that there is no feedback from the car to the fob.

Originally Posted by peterh

... I have a spare fob circuit-board from a scrap vehicle - and when I put that into my current car's fob with a new battery, that one doesn't 'flash' either ...

That's to be expected. The remote locking function uses a PCB in the key fob which has to be configured to the BCU in your car.

Originally Posted by peterh

The Owners' Handbook suggests that if the fob isn't arming/disarming the alarm, it may have gone out of synch. with the receiver unit in the starter switch ...

For information, the fob communicates with a dedicated receiver for alarm and superlocking functions. The ignition switch separately communicates with the transponder unit within the key fob for engine immobilisation.

Simon

[daveo138]

It might seem obvious, but is the battery in the key fob fitted correctly?

When we bought our 25, one of the key fobs didn’t work. It turned out that the battery was fitted the wrong way round.

[vitesse]

Originally Posted by SD1too

That's to be expected. The remote locking function uses a PCB in the key fob which has to be configured to the BCU in your car.

Simon

Hi Simon, not quite my understanding as I believe pressing any working keyfob with a good battery will illuminate the red light irrespective of whether it's configured to the car or not.

Mike

[CLINTE]

Originally Posted by peterh

While it works fine mechanically via the door-lock - and the car starts perfectly well, there is suddenly no sign of any electrical life from my Valeo key fob, despite having tried a couple of alternative new 2032 batteries.

1 The car doesn't lock/unlock remotely using either of the key-fob buttons.
2.The sidelights no longer flash on attempting a remote lock/unlock.
3. There's no l.e.d. light on the fob itself when either lock or unlock button is pressed. However, I can't remember what's meant to happen - perhaps it only ever happened on successful interaction with the car, so should I expect this? I'm assuming that I shouldn't expect the fob-l.e.d. to light up, because I have a spare fob circuit-board from a scrap vehicle - and when I put that into my current car's fob with a new battery, that one doesn't 'flash' either when either fob button is operated.
4. The Owners' Handbook suggests that if the fob isn't arming/disarming the alarm, it may have gone out of synch. with the receiver unit in the starter switch and recommends multiple button-presses while close to the car to resynchronise. However having tried this, both with key in ignition and out, nothing happens, and in mechanical key-operating mode, the alarm system seems to function normally in that if I lock the car with the bonnet slightly open I get the usual single bleep from the horn...

Any thoughts on potential remedies would be appreciated please - including recommendations on an economical source of a duplicate replacement key/fob if that's the only remedy available...
Many thanks in advance for your ideas.

I would get in touch with Big Russ on here and seek his advice - he is the key guru .

[macafee2]

Has the car had a flat battery and filed to start? I seem to recall in such circumstances the key can become unsynchronised from the car.

macafee2

[daveo138]

Originally Posted by macafee2

Has the car had a flat battery and filed to start? I seem to recall in such circumstances the key can become unsynchronised from the car.

macafee2

That would seem to affect the immobiliser rather than central locking.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=106447

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by vitesse

Hi Simon, not quite my understanding as I believe pressing any working keyfob with a good battery will illuminate the red light irrespective of whether it's configured to the car or not.

Thanks for clarifying Mike. I misunderstood your post.

I think you're probably right that Peter should check with a multimeter the batteries he's using when under load, i.e. when pressing the lock or unlock buttons. They may well show 3v open circuit but when required to deliver current that can drop dramatically. This would appear to be the most likely reason why none of the LEDs is illuminating.

Regarding Dave's point about correct polarity, when fitted the battery's labelling should be uppermost and visible.

Simon