These can be difficult to yield from the subframe, at worst I have jacked up the corner in question, accurately positioned a chassis stand with a flat upfacing platform beneath the slackened nut. Then jack up the car as high as possible taking account of the angle it is likely to hit the stand, and let it go suddenly to land on the chassis stand positioned beneath the nut. A few of these will be normally necessary for the most stubborn taper joint release. As I re-assemble the vehicle, I tend to coat the taper with some copper based grease as the rear bush will need replacing before the arm itself making the exercise more tolerable next time.
Finally if you intend replacing the arm because of a stuffed ball joint, its worth considering replacing the nut and pinch bolt as these really should be replaced each time because the shank will stretch or narrow and cause the joint to chatter in the hub making the whole repair pointless as the joint will exhibit the same issues in a very short period of time and the damage is then done, the cost of the nut & bolt is well worth the small expenditure.
RYG101200 & FX110057 are the part numbers.
Hope this helps, and good luck.
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