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Originally Posted by CMOORESY

DO NOT CUT ANYTHING, YOU DO NOT NEED A HACKSAW OR TO PULL YOUR GRILL OFF TO DO THIS PROPERLY!!!

There is some well meaning but poor advice written about this simple task.

This task can be carried out in about 20 mins without any damage to your car whatsoever.

So, assuming that its not the junction box that's the problem and its at the latch or a broken/rusted cable at fault -

Firstly, I have only experienced a rusted through bonnet cable on two facelift cars however, I cant see it being much different on a pre-facelifts?

OK -

Get a crappy old 10mm spanner and bend the head (see image).

https://i156.photobucket.com/albums/...pstl2tbap8.jpg

Release the bonnet latch to fee up the side of the bonnet that still works (so the good unbroken latch is released)

Put some tape around the bonnet and the bumper in the area of the broken bonnet latch and bayonet so as not to mark the paint should you slip with the spanner or something, highly unlikely, but just in case.

Wrap a short piece of wood or something similar in a soft rag to make a wedge. This is inserted between the bumper and the leading edge of the bonnet on the released side with the intention of -
1. making the bonnet to bumper gap bigger
2. putting an upward force on the bonnet

Now get your bent 10mm spanner and a torch. locate the bayonet on the broken side, put the spanner though the gap and carefully undo the two 10mm bolts on the underside of the bonnet. Its a bit fiddly, but you can do it.

Alternate from one bolt to the other, this way, each turn will give you more room to work, as the bonnet is forced up by the wedge that you have put in place on the opposite side. Slide the wedge along to keep the upward force on the bonnet as you undo the bolts.

Once the two bolts are unscrewed the bonnet will pop open with the bayonet still in the catch on the slam panel.

This can be released by inserting a small screwdriver in the latch between the plunger and the catch to push the catch back thus releasing the plunger.

now you can fix the cable etc.

The thing that slows this down is the limited access due to the lip on the bayonet fixing plate, as a precaution, you can remove and flatten the leading edges of each bayonet bracket once the bonnet is open, then if it happens again, you can do the job in about 5 mins and not 20 mins, and you wont need the bent spanner (see image of flattened leading bayonet plates on my car)

https://i156.photobucket.com/albums/...psj5asreen.jpg

Simple, nothing broken or damaged and everything reusable.
I posted this how to on here years ago, so cant understand why there is still poor advice circulating.

Good Luck, Chris

Thanks, that was the sort of solution I was hoping to find.



I am afraid that I am now at an age where I prefer to get a mechanic to do the hard work. He made his own search for advice and had told me about the hacksaw method so I ordered the replacement beyonet from Rimmer Bros.


I ordered the cables from Ebay as there was an offer for the full set for a good price. I think I got the last one. My mechanic suggested I should replace the cable on the other side and the third cable was effectively free so its seemed worth going for the full set. The part from Rimmers arrived yesterday but I am still waiting for the cables so perhaps it would be better to get them from Rimmers.


I may ask the mechanic if he minds me helping/observing. As he is also sorting out the windscreen washer he will need to remove the wheel arch liner. It will be interesting to see if that helps in getting access to the catch. Shame that the broken cable is on the other side...


I am glad that this solution is now available to all without the need for a PM. I do not see this as a security issue as it is only possible if you can open the bonnet on one side to fix the problem on the other.


Thanks again CMOORSEY.