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Old 21st October 2019, 20:02   #2
T-Cut
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Rover75 and Mreg Corsa.

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Hello Matt,


Quote:
Originally Posted by Chunky2778 View Post
However first I pulled the bonnet and topped up the water and noticed that he'd spat some coolant. Nothing major, but enough to smell and sit in the ridges of the coolant expansion tank.
Diesels typically run cool, but warmer with the in-line stat. Unless the engine's really working hard, I wouldn't expect it to get hot enough to expell coolant from the pressure cap. With a regular '140' cap, it needs around 120C or more to lift the valve. Of course, over-filling the cooling system is a different matter. If you top up the coolant so it submerges the header tank fins, it may well eject a little coolant simply from thermal expansion. The correct filling level is at the base of the fins.

Quote:
I've already done the thermostat mod months ago and it sits right on 9 o'clock, needle never moves once there. No signs of overheating either, and the level was fine.
Remember that the 'normal' mark of the temp gauge means the engine is anywhere between 75C and 115C. So not very useful at all.

Quote:
Initial thoughts were the fan speed resistor (aircon doesn't work) but I read a few comments on here that said it's very rare for a diesel to get that hot to need the fan. The journey was nothing out of the ordinary, a little fast A road and some milling about some small B roads.
Diesel fans typically spend their lives working for the aircon system. If you never turn the aircon on, the fan will probaby never come on from one end of the year to the next (except if it's worked hard as mentioned). I suppose the in-line thermostat may increase the need in warm weather. Whatever, you should fix the cooling fan. If it only requires the uprated gold resistor, get one from forum traders, eBay or electronics outlets. It's a relatively simple DIY job with plenty of HowTo stuff around here.

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Is it possible something else runs off the fuse for the washer pump?
No idea, but none of the fuses have an impact on the engine running temperature.

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Only other thing I've noticed is the coolant cap is ridiculously tight.
It shouldn't be that tight. It's only sealed by rubber gaskets after all. Overtightening eventually leads to bad sealing as the o-rings and sealing washer become compressed/mis-shaped. I'd suggest you get the cap replaced or at least renew all the rubber parts (see forum traders or eBay)

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Do these suffer from head gaskets?
It would be difficult to find a case here.

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Anyone ever had a cap go?
Often, See above.

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could someone remind of the procedure for getting the odometer to go into diagnostic mode
Section 7: https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...ad.php?t=55585

Last edited by T-Cut; 21st October 2019 at 20:14..
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