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maxxpump · 6th May 2016, 10:39

I agree with mike above! Try unplugging your maf to see if that improves things, personally with my 130K CDT, I would never shove engine flush in it as there is a chance you can damage the engine (Occasionally sludge helps compress the engine parts, seals damaged seals and helps your engine run better, don't take it from me do research and more research on this as there is so much info on google that will tell you not to do this to an old engine!)

If you have had the engine from new and flush regularly then it's a different story!

I change my oil every 6,000 miles or when it starts running lumpy, I have a pump, it's easy as pie to do and the oil is cheap. If you want to flush your engine, get some cheapo oil, drain the engine and refresh the oil and take it for a spirited drive and then drain from the sump (this also flushes the oil out of the cooler and other oil ways!), put fresh premium grade oil in afterwards and you should flush out most of the nasty's without the chance of damage and still leave the good sludge to do its work sealing up the important parts on your inside of your engine (just make sure you replace the filter with the change before you put you premium oil in and you're fine)

I know there are some on here that have used flushing products and swear by them, but each to the own!

6th May 2016, 10:39	#6
maxxpump Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDT Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Brighton Posts: 1,786 Thanks: 215 Thanked 244 Times in 205 Posts	I agree with mike above! Try unplugging your maf to see if that improves things, personally with my 130K CDT, I would never shove engine flush in it as there is a chance you can damage the engine (Occasionally sludge helps compress the engine parts, seals damaged seals and helps your engine run better, don't take it from me do research and more research on this as there is so much info on google that will tell you not to do this to an old engine!) If you have had the engine from new and flush regularly then it's a different story! I change my oil every 6,000 miles or when it starts running lumpy, I have a pump, it's easy as pie to do and the oil is cheap. If you want to flush your engine, get some cheapo oil, drain the engine and refresh the oil and take it for a spirited drive and then drain from the sump (this also flushes the oil out of the cooler and other oil ways!), put fresh premium grade oil in afterwards and you should flush out most of the nasty's without the chance of damage and still leave the good sludge to do its work sealing up the important parts on your inside of your engine (just make sure you replace the filter with the change before you put you premium oil in and you're fine) I know there are some on here that have used flushing products and swear by them, but each to the own! __________________ Mods done: 160 upgrade, EGR bypass, Viton "O" rings, Fitted 16" unions, cleaned manifold, uprated air filter, fog lights, better bulbs, upgraded ICE and full speaker set up. Last edited by maxxpump; 6th May 2016 at 15:37..